Can this be replaced....?

[Quagmire]

But post a link to a piece of pirate software and everyone is happy to download.

Honest I'm not just bitter because it doesn't work on a mac.

I am typing from my PC/Mac hybrid now- a shuttle PC running OSX... I would run Microcat from a virtual machine running XP, google "Virtualbox" its free- open source, and very, very good

[TimR]

Funnily enough, while undercoating the CSW yesterday I found the same part had gone. Glad to know its an easy afternoon fix.. (cough).

(Also writing from my dual Mac/PC system)

[pat_pending]

These X members are not that hard to do. You don't have to cut them in half, or remove any of the floor.

The problem is they're very tight to fit, and Land Rover build tolerances mean some will be easier than others.

1. Remove the sill panels and the panels between the rear doors and the wheel arch.

You only need to remove one side to fit, but doing both sides aids removal.

2. Remove all the mounting bolts and cut the old X member up in situ, then remove. The bolts that hold it to the chassis are inserted from the top and the front ones wont come out, just cut the heads off and let them drop out.

3. take the new X member and drill 2x8.5mm holes through each of the L shape mountings, mark them L&R, then grind out the welds and remove them. This will allow you to refit them with m8 bolts back into their original positions once the X Member is in place. Clean up where you ground the welds out and give everything a good coat of paint.

4. It's easier to Insert the X Member from the nearside because It has to go under the fuel pipes on the offside.

This is when it all gets tight, it will fit but don't be afraid to lever it about or give it a hand with a block of wood and a hammer.

5. Once in place, fit new bolts to hold it to the chassis. The front ones will need to come up from underneath so check the length as otherwise the ends will foul the floor when tightened.

6. refit both L brackets with m8 bolts and nylocs and refit the bolts through the heel board into the brackets. You may need to shim the gap between the brackets and the heel board. 305232 is the pt' no' for the genuine shim, or make your own from some ally.

7. Finally refit the panels/sills.

I've done plenty like this, yes it's a pig, but I think it's less work than chopping the the thing in half.

[reb78]

Thats how mine was done.........

[CJ110]

Reb, this is great news - before I got attacking my new X member (still to be purchased at £42) with an angle grinder, I reckon your method has got to be worth a shot. B)

What's the worst thing that can happen .......

I will probably get the bits and have a go early Jun - got some other more pressing issues to sort first - see the 'Want Ads' for a new power steering pump.

When I do it, I will make sure I get good shots of the whole process for posting on here.

[TimR]

This forum at its best...

[CJ110]

These X members are not that hard to do. You don't have to cut them in half, or remove any of the floor.

The problem is they're very tight to fit, and Land Rover build tolerances mean some will be easier than others.

1. Remove the sill panels and the panels between the rear doors and the wheel arch.

You only need to remove one side to fit, but doing both sides aids removal.

2. Remove all the mounting bolts and cut the old X member up in situ, then remove. The bolts that hold it to the chassis are inserted from the top and the front ones wont come out, just cut the heads off and let them drop out.

3. take the new X member and drill 2x8.5mm holes through each of the L shape mountings, mark them L&R, then grind out the welds and remove them. This will allow you to refit them with m8 bolts back into their original positions once the X Member is in place. Clean up where you ground the welds out and give everything a good coat of paint.

4. It's easier to Insert the X Member from the nearside because It has to go under the fuel pipes on the offside.

This is when it all gets tight, it will fit but don't be afraid to lever it about or give it a hand with a block of wood and a hammer.

5. Once in place, fit new bolts to hold it to the chassis. The front ones will need to come up from underneath so check the length as otherwise the ends will foul the floor when tightened.

6. refit both L brackets with m8 bolts and nylocs and refit the bolts through the heel board into the brackets. You may need to shim the gap between the brackets and the heel board. 305232 is the pt' no' for the genuine shim, or make your own from some ally.

7. Finally refit the panels/sills.

I've done plenty like this, yes it's a pig, but I think it's less work than chopping the the thing in half.

Pat,

If it's alright with you, I might PM you nearer the time to get more detail if that's alright with you...?

[Philip Tonkin]

I am typing from my PC/Mac hybrid now- a shuttle PC running OSX... I would run Microcat from a virtual machine running XP, google "Virtualbox" its free- open source, and very, very good

But if you "would" how would the dongle work, notoriously difficult to get to function on a virtual machine.