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I've only gone and bought another Land Rover, a D2 TD5.


reggie

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After selling my Range Rover classic and still not sorting the L322, I was without a car as the Grand Cherokee I've been using has packed up so I've bought a cheap 2000 TD5 to get me around. So now I'm guessing I've just added some more Land Rover headaches with another leaky Landy ?

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Well I'm not bored yet, been too busy sorting all the rust and fixing it.............No not really but I'm sure if I look hard enough I'll find some rust.

Chassis looks good but it has been under sealed and a plate welded so can't see the real story just yet. I've already fell victim to the famous leaky sunroofs which the previous owner sealed up with silicone but not very well. Was low on water after the drive back but been ok ever since. Also found the oil in the ecu plug so that needs doing..........oh and the oil leak but that comes standard from the factory ?

Spec is basic I think, cloth seats and no air con but heated front screen. It's a manual in dark green but not sure the actual colour yet. Got the 18" mondials on it, tints and side steps. Not much else I don't think but it will do as a work horse.

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Mine is +2 and I couldn't have it any other way. It's on OME HD's and ride quality is still really good, [with ACE too]. I'd throw a blank on the EGR and the other mod I'd recommend is getting a facelift fuel flap release button for the instrument cowl. I was always out of the car before I remembered to release it and reaching over is a pain, especially if you've already got the pump in your hand.

Check the front ends of the roof gutters too, just where they run around to the windscreen, if they're leaky you'll probably be able to see the cracks in the factory sealant. Rear chassis legs are the real trouble spots for rust - from the axle back. If there are knocks in the suspension change the anti roll bar bushes front and back, they're only a few quid each, it's an easy job and if your shock bushes and Watts linkage are good it'll make a world of difference.

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