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Glass fuses to blade fuses


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I've done this on my B reg 90. You can buy the fuse boards from LR that fit the gap, you can if you are rich buy the latching connectors from LR. Or go elsewhere like I did.

Then all I did was sit down for a whole day and uncrimp the wire from the original fuse box and recrimp with the new crimps. Wire by wire. Even being a wiring numpty it is fairly straight forward if you only do 1 wire at a time

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i have an old 90 on glass fuse they have coursed alot of problems is it possible to change the fuse board to blade type yes

is it jsut a case of changeing the main bulkhead wiring loom? yes messy though.

many thanks in advance

Double check you want to go down this route as it's a lot of work. Are you sure your fuses are the correct rating. The glass types as found in the military landrovers show holding current not blow current. my side lights were listed as 2.5 amp and i couldn't work out why whem I plugged trailer in they would blow. They needed to be 5amp blow current fuses. Other than that give the terminals a brush and squeeze the sping together, with the fuse out to grip fuse a bit better.

I did this job about 4 years ago when I put a 300tdi in my defender. I got hold of a salvage 95 loom (blade fuses) and both sets of wiring diagrams for military and civvy. It took the best part of two weeks to redraw and re-make a new loom to do what I wanted it to.

My main motivation was because of timer plug relay and replacing feed to headlights. You shouldnt need to change the main cable through the chassis though.

If you are feeling confident with electricery the go ahead. you need to keep some of the wiring for the connectors and relay bases. I would suggest splicing inside the cabin to prevent ingress of salt etc and use solder splices with adhesive lined heatshrink where you make the joints.

Pete

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Bish

Will dig out some receipts later.

IIRC you need the mounting plate 12 quid ish

2 X fuse holders couple of quid each

Wire crimps/connectors. When I did mine they were 1.40 EACH.

Storeroom at work had some spare connectors ;) . If you want some Bish I'll have a root around to see if there are any left over.

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cheers guys for fast replys

i had a small electrical fire at the weekend and havent full investigated it yet but will do. i think it was the switch on the solanoid i had wired in. so even if it isnt the fuse board i am always having problems with headlights and most of the time its down to bad connection on the fuse board.

i ll give it some thought, does sound like a big job and as it a military 90 it has alot of extra wiring and bodges to contend with :o

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its really easy, buy 2 of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...photo/fbb8u.jpg

then methodically snip off your crappy glass fuse holders and put female blade cimps on the ends of the wires.

plug back in to your new fuse blocks, add the appropriate fuses and then fix into the metal plate that you removed the old fuse holders from.

you'll need to enlarge the hole in it to fit, but that's not hard.

not sure what the supposed difficulty is, this was with an ex mod 110 and solved the funny electrical problems i had, the source of which was the corroded glass fuse holders. just take your time and take notes as you do it so everything gets plugged in to the correct place.

did it maybe 5 years ago and not a problem since.

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Right here you go.

Mounting Plate AMR 3138 27.04 + VAT

Fuse Block prc 4826 3.97 + VAT

Connectors 3 Sizes Small to large

stc 4034 3.27 ea +VAT

stc 4035 4.45 ea +VAT

stc 4036 55p ea +VAT

All prices are retail from Microcat as of today. You'll need to confirm correct part numbers before you order. (That's my get out clause, in case I've messed up)

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