The seal being asked about here is the outer hub seal, the one just behind the drive flange not the stub axle seal. Which brings me question, what does the lip on the stub axle seal actually press on to form a seal? Is the reinstall order first the outer bearing, then the hub spacer in the 2nd photo, then a nut, then a larger washer locking tab, finished with a 2nd locking nut?
This bearing is practically against a face meaning the puller I have presses on the bearing cage, it can't get far enough in because the gap isn't big enough.
Can the pressed on bearing on a differential be removed without sustaining damage?
My reason for asking is I have an air-locker not working properly and the supplier is asking for the bearing removal and an accurate height measurement taken, any pressed on bearings I've removed and seen removed involved damaging the bearing.
The RTC6398 arrived and was fitted today on the 1990 Defender, I'll put the the other one, QFW000020 which replaced part number STC1044, on the shelf as a spare for the TD5 I have as it'll likely fit that model.
Mmmnnn, I was hoping the answer was no as I've removed the old arm and cant get the new one on.
I have come across an advert marketing the rtc 6398 arm for the 6 bolt box and the 4 bolt manual box, I was hoping perhaps I had a 4 bolt PAS box one which would account for why it won't slip on.
The idea behind the video
In that case you may as well save yourself a hefty sum by buying the Corroless paint in the video I posted earlier because that's who Buzzweld buys it product from before rebranding it Buzzweld.