geoffbeaumont

Mine doesn't do that (3.9 Hotwire) - if you unplug the MAF meter it won't run on petrol at all.

Well, right hand back is now stripped down - the exhaust ports on the front two cylinders (2 & 4) are steam cleaned, but I can't see any sign of this within the cylinders themselves or in the intakes ports (guess that rules out the valley gasket). No obvious places where coolant has been leaking past the gasket, nor can I see any cracks in the block. What should I be looking for, or should I just clean it all up and reassemble it and hope for the best? The engine actually looks in good nick - cam looks reasonable, tappets are all fine. So hopefully if I can sort this I won't be having to open it up again for quite a while

Answered that one for myself - lever them out with a spanner Random unrelated question: If you have an injected LPG kit, where do the injectors go? Do you have to change the intake manifold for one with two sets of injector ports?

I know the Haynes manual is notoriosly optimistic, but 'ease the fuel rail and injectors out and remove from the engine bay'... They've been there for twelve years and they're very comfortable where they are, thank you... Is there some trick to coaxing the little buggers out (Hotwire V8), because I'd very much like to get at my head gaskets sometime today?!!

Go for it - I'd have a crack myself but I really don't have the time right now, and in any case I'm a techy not a designer, so you wouldn't get anything particularly original.

You guys need to spend less time in Ikea...

Plenty of time for that, Stephen

Number 25 - just got to sort out my head gasket. Don't think it'd survive the run up to the borders, never mind a days off roading. Oh, and take the plow off again - might be time to figure out how to leave the horizontal stays in place so I don't have to drop the petrol tank every time If I really push on I might even get the diff guards fitted for some proper posing. MSnEDIS probably isn't doable though, seeing I've only got this weekend and maybe a couple of evenings.

It's in hand - us 'techy types' have a little shovel work to do but we should soon be properly located at Land Rover Addict.

What about just using screened wire for the tach input? On here, Fridgefreezer's your man for MS related stuff - I'm sure he'll be along soon.

Blast! Okay guys, when he's not looking - RUN!

Well, it got me back home (via Wales, and towing a moderately heavy trailer on the first leg) - seems whichever gasket is on the way out has a lot to do with the rough running I had before I left. After the Bars Leaks went in it started running a lot smoother. On the run back down it was getting steadily rougher and seemed to be suffering from dropping torque. Seems I need to get the bits ordered and crack on with it this weekend...

I take it I can't tell whether it's the valley gasket until I get it apart, and therefore had best lay in a full gasket kit before I start?

Would the coolant be coming out the exhaust, though?

Where do you get heads checked/skimmed? I presume that would mean having the vehicles out of action for more than a day? What about the overheating? Could that damage the heads?

...no, really, I'm up in the Lake District with much better things to do than sit at a computer - but the Landies are up to their usual tricks Firstly, mine ('93 3.9V8): I arrived up here after the drive from Birmingham and noticed a few whisps of steam coming from the exhaust. Coolant was low, and a dose of Bars Leaks has stopped it's misbehaviour, so I guess my head gasket is on the way out. I've got a day off work after I get back, so I was thinking about ordering all the bits and doing it then. Which parts do I need - head gasket, obviously, I'm guessing there're a few other seals I'll have to break to get at it (don't have access to the manuals up here)? What about tools? Are there any other parts I should replace as a matter of course while I'm in there? Next up, Jimbob's Rangie ('92 3.9V8): Dead head gasket (he knew that when he bought it), but he dosed it with ceramic sealant and since then it's overheated. He's been told by his mechanic that he'll need new heads because of that. I don't think the guy is taking him for a ride as he's advised him not to bother repairing it but to run it until it's properly dead then get rid of the car, but is his advice correct? I'm not too sure how much work is involved in doing a head gasket - would it be reasonable to do one or both cars (I'd have two pairs of hands if it was both) in a day, never having done one before? What's accepted wisdom on the parts (ie. are there some that should definitely be OEM and so on)? As for the 110 TD I'm not even going there...

Well, that's my application in the post. Well sort of - the cheque's in the post, had to email the application after my printer refused to print black because it was out of colour ink. I'll be there with my Dad, in a green K reg Range Rover (the one in my avatar).

You saying we're not real off roaders?

Cheers - I'll have a few tools with me so I can always more it if necessary

What's the 'standard' height for a tow ball? Regular, boggo, six quid from your local motor factor type, not a NATO jaw or anything fancy like that. Got one to fit to the Rangie by the weekend, and I've no idea which holes to bolt it through (I can see which ones used to have a hook, but it'll have the 750s on* so it might need to go down one). * Because it will probably have to tow trailers up muddy fields. Definitely not because it looks much cooler B)

Bowline

Done

Fair 'nuff. I take it there will be sufficient amusement for those of us with less extreme vehicles on the red routes? I'm with fisha too - I'd much rather be driving than stuck. Just fancied having a go at one or too tricky bits if they didn't look too daft

Yeah alright...it was just a random selection of words I chucked in there when we were setting up - it's by no means comprehensive or even particularly sane. Certainly not well thought out. And like pretty much everything else, up for negotiation. Seems to be a consensus that ****** doesn't belong on the block list (work that out ), so I'll remove it.

I spoke too soon - still got a definate vibration, possibly getting worse Thinking back, there had to be something more than the ignition timing - it was still there when I tried turning it over without the ignition and fuel before. First candidate has to be the trigger wheel. Unfortunately I can't think of any way to put that to the test other than removing it and putting everything back together without it. At least I'm still running on the dizzy at the moment. How much vibration could the trigger wheel cause? It's only 1mm thick steel, and not visibly off centre.