Anderzander

To rephrase the above and hopefully make it clearer.... You have the wrong type of studs. Your hub is meant to have thread in studs -with top of the stud pressed / staked. The press fit / knock in studs are meant for a hub with a larger hole* * and to on mine were shorter if just pressed in without countersinking the head. So you either need to modify the hub to take the knock in type of Studs you have ..... or get the right type and work out how you will stake it.

When I did mine on my first Td5 90 I did drop the tank - but got it back in from the bottom. I can’t really remember how though ... other than I swore and hated the job a lot, I also think I used a highlift to lift the chassis from the newly fitted crossmember. Oh, and I remember that when I finally did get the tank back in I remembered that I’d forgot to clean the pump filter whilst it was out 😳

I just need to clean it and buzzweld it now !

Here Steve - these are the BSF press in studs: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322352720203

I don’t know when they changed ... but S1 and I’m assuming early S2 had BSF studs that were threaded at both ends, and peened over on the back to lock them in. Later these were changed to the splined shoulder type you describe, which were meant for a larger hole and to be pressed through from the back. (i.e not screwed in) It sounds like you have the first type of hole and the later type of stud. Now you can get the original type of stud and you could (in order of correctness/bodge) find a way to pean/press them over on the back edge, or chemically bond them in, or (horror) put a blob of weld on them. The other option is to drill them out, countersink the back so it sits flush and comes through enough, and then press them in. I have just replaced 2 on my series one... 1 had been pushed through and welded, badly. It was absurdly short. Another was one that had been drilled out and pressed in - but it was now seized and hadn’t been countersunk and as a result was short on the face. So I replaced both with the later type countersunk - primarily because both holes had been enlarged with no opportunity to put in the original types. I got an engineer to do it - with them having been bodged I didn’t feel I had much leeway to get it right, and my old puller drill and an angle grinder didn’t seem Like the safest approach. Happy to take some photos of that would help.

Thus my comment above pondering if the map was just chucking fuel in to for power - I wonder if it smokes? I wonder if the FPR is leaking?

looking great ! Do you have plans for boarding out the trusses for storage ? Any plans for heat ?

Wow that looks good.

The catch for me is that I much prefer the look of OE wheels to the aftermarket ones. I did consider the zero offset Nakatanenga ANR CLASSIC steel rims - but they are 8” and a total fortune !

Bit of a thread revival .... I’ve an offer of some Wolf rims and I’m wondering if the 18mm difference from the radius arm, to the Boosts I have on now, would make an appreciable difference to lock. I don’t really know what real world difference these numbers make.

I think it can last 9 days on hard surfaces and remain in the air, likely within droplets, for 3 hours.

Assuming it’s standard Td5 gearing (gearbox and diffs) you should be doing about 2600 revs at 70mph - which seems comparable to a Td5 with smaller tyres and a 1.2 transfer box. If you drive at 60mph what mpg are you getting.

That’s true - but I’m getting 30. I wonder if your map is throwing fuel at it.. ?

Perhaps he’s the archetype and we just have the traits ?

Blimey Naks - are you watching all of these ?

@ballcock and I with the same idea at the same time.

Could you jack the door up still on the hinges - then take the hinges off one at a time and refit with the washer on? That way the hinges still hold the door whilst the jack creates the space for the washers.

Looks fabulous 😊👍🏻 With you having orientated the hinges the same way (i.e all upwards from the pictures) then you should be able to space the door up by just putting washers in...

When I put a 3 link on the front of my old 90 it was really about testing the open diff / long travel capability for myself. Balancing the travel front to back made is super stable and I was astonished at how far it would go even without momentum - it would just balance evenly across the 4 wheels and find grip. But we all know these things anyway. If it was a tyre - we’d say it was 70/30 road bias.

We’re in agreement (especially Picard) - my point was only that (even aside from at what point we exceed wheel travel) with some standard traction aids it’s an irrelevant point of comparison.

Though to state the obvious; that’s really just about traction control. Rather than comparing this to the old offering - more in line with the rest of this thread, would be a comparison against what an updated version of the chassis/beam axles platform might be doing.

With the height of your vehicle - ‘dropping off’ has never been a more apt phrase.

😂😂

How heath robinson would you like ? transfer the pics of the wheel onto wooden board with a centre hole, and bolt it to the hub. With a bolt or a piece of dowel, centre and fix a piece of 2x2 to the centred hole in the board. Clamp/fix your drill with the carbide bit onto the 2x2 and rotate it to take gradual cuts out of the ally calliper?