Anderzander
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Posts posted by Anderzander
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That's very helpful too - thank you.
The lock can't be stripped witrout drilling rivets out - but the access and drainage is quite good. So I'll spray it clean with something like brake cleaner and then dry lube it as per your suggestion
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Another option would be for users to be able to post a thread in there - writing their tip / mod up - which the admins then close off for further replys.
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Any feedback on how those Britpart retrim kits have stood the test of time ?
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That's how I imagined it working.
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I rather like the idea of this as a separate section too - I can imagine it being attractive to new members.
Lower level modifications, as opposed to full on ground up buggy builds, may prove attractive to owners of newer vehicles too .... ?
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Thanks everyone
Does it need more support though ? As on mine there are the 4 factory fit spacers so it clears the seatbox cover / mat ... So it's only supported in the corners as it is.
I'd rather go with spacers so i can experiment with different heights.
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I fancy sitting a little higher up but wondered if there is any advantage of having say the mud rails over just some turned spacers ?
I'm not sure if I've got it right - but it seems the only advantage of the mud rails is that it allows the seat to be moved back more ...? Which I'm not really bothered with - just want a little more height.
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It worked a treat !
Input the gun on low and built the heat over the stretched area - pushing the dint in and letting it pop up as I did so - at a certain temperature it just stayed in, so I let it cool from there and it's stayed there.
There is a slight dint where the plastic must have stretched - but the crease has gone and its a million times better.
Brilliant
. Thank you everyone. -
It's seems it is the seized grease scenario - after dousing it with a degreasant its started working
Great news - and thank you !
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SOA
My understanding was that the tensile strengths are not the issue - it's in shear that stainless is weaker.
I think someone already mentioned that the load on a lot of suspension bolts is in shear - as it is with your radius arm example.
Certainly tensile is not the only way to measure bolt strength or quality.
Seems difficult to find quoted shear strengths for a given standard though.
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I'm concerned about stamps having sharp edges ....
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If I've remembered correctly it's based on someone I knew who had a lifted 110 on 35's ......
Though his lift was causing trouble anyhow.
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I think they will be noisey within 154 miles
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That's helpful - thank you both. Although I've already filled it wd40
I'll spray some degreaser in and oil it and see if it changes. If not then I'm into a spring kit or failing that a new lock.
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My rear door has stopped unlocking with the central locking.
I can open it with a key - though there feels to be no spring in the action. The actuator is still moving and turning the arm - but the manual latch on the lock isn't going all the way.
is this likely the lock or might it be the actuator ?
If it's the lock can I repair it ? I've seen kits for the non central locking ones that have 4 rivets and a spring, but nothing for these later ones.
Unfortunately the lock is £50 - so I want to make sure it's at fault before I consider replacing it.
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Thanks Si
I have a hot air gun - though it's not temperature controlled. I'll just have to watch the temperature doesn't get too hot.
I'll post up how I get on.
Stephen
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When I saw the title I thought Britpart had diversified into producing deoderants
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I think they are very capable - I've had occasions where my front wheels haven't cleared an obstacle before the back wheels are hitting it ..... Whereas a 110 has been able to drive it's front wheels over from the rear wheels and then pull the rear wheels over with the front.
On the laning thing - there aren't many, but by way (pun intended) of an example - Gatescarth pass is run on a permit and only vehicles with less than 100" can drive it.
It was a head and heart thing for me - head said 110 - heart said 90, and at the end of the day I've got to enjoy driving it.
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Thank you - that's really helpful. I didn't know if ABS was a thermoplastic or not and didn't want damage it in anyway
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For me it's a mixture of some lanes that I like to drive that needs the shorter wheelbase .... And also simply the shallow reason of preferring the look of it.
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Definitely congratulations !
I kept my 90 - and my girl has just turned 3. I have almost no time to work on it too ... ?
The 90 is a bit small - but I couldn't bring myself to get a 110.
At the moments my wife travels in the back in a side facing seat - with my daughter in the front.
I have though bought a lock and fold forward facing rear seat to put in in - and the plan is to put one of those 'bare boxes' on the other side - to get some storage back and see how we go on. If it's nowhere near enough then I'll look at a roof box I think.
We have another car too - but we all seem to prefer to go in the 90.
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Will that work then ?
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I've had the plastic door card off my back door to fit a wheel carrier - and thought to take the opportunity to push out a dent it has, but it just pops back in.
Can I heat it to reset it somehow ?
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That is my seat !!
Shame some pictures are missing - but it'll be very helpful non the less.
Thank you.
Popular Modifications Sub-Section?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
If it wasn't too onerous it would be good to make the thread stand alone - even if that's a copy and paste job.
I'm partly thinking of things that can get lost or spread over a larger thread - and also how the tech archive currently suffers from posts with no photos due to Photobucket move arounds. For example there is a winch rebuild in there that is now all but totally useless.