Anderzander

So … @need4speed why did you ask ?

I’ve took measurements - some of the NOS holes not being round will be a factor, but the main issue is that the diameter of the pin is a fair but smaller than the engine side hole in the clevis. I’ve put washers in and wound the pin all the way in, stopping movement along the pin - and that’s helped a lot. It still looks like this though: https://youtube.com/shorts/-iCr2kTqb2A?feature=share I think really sorting this will involve putting it on a bench with a pillar drill and likely turning something up.

I see that on the 2/2a now, thanks … On the Series 1 (which my lever is from) it only shows the ‘handbrake type’ clevis pin… On that they are on the handbrake, the low range lever, the 4wd lever, and the clutch rod 😊 The lever on the 80” is 219729. I’m not sure how the lever on your list remains the same for both types of fixing - on mine the holes are different diameter on each side of the clevis fork - so it would need a significantly shouldered bolt to work. Perhaps an easy way for me to do this would be either a bush in there or ask some one to turn a shoulder down into a normal clevis pin.

Thanks David - lots of info there ! Is yours a S3 one ? The clevis arrangement is different to mine .. mine has this type of pin… a shouldered bolt looks a better arrangement. I’m out at the moment - but the clevis arrangement on mine has more equal thickness on the sides - one hole larger and threaded. When that pivot is pushed towards the fulcrum it flexes sideways - despite the parts being new. I’ll do some more measuring up - it must be a combination of the clevis being wider than the fulcrum - and the pin being smaller diameter than the fixed pivot’s hole. I can’t increase clamping force because the screw head on that pin is already flush with the outer face. This is one of those moments where I wish I had a lathe…

Is there any way to improve the low range bottom linkage ? Mine has all new parts - but still twists when you pull the lever back and push the linkage into the fulcrum. Tightening the screw in as far as it goes helps to tighten it up a little - but it looks like it would be much more positive with a properly clearanced bush in there, or a shouldered clevis pin … Any thoughts ?

😂😀

Well - that makes it all the more impressive what you are achieving with them 🤩

I used to train - no one would believe it looking at me now though 😂

Love that - thank you for sharing ! Amazing that people are criticising his choices, saying he’s chose the wrong vehicle and should have upgraded his drive line …… as one of the other comments points out though, it’s hard to criticise success. I've found him on Instagram now and will check out his YouTube. Instagram highlighted that the Swiss family I linked to on here who had spent €88k on their Defender follow him. Such a different approach - but then I guess they are travelling around Europe - whereas he’s in proper wilderness countries.

That’s true - though the flip side is that the Internet is continuing to open up access to other people. I was having problems finding a Series 2A intermediate gear for a suffix B box …. No UK seller had …..one but I ended up finding one in Germany. So my hope is that we end up better able to help each other, over a bigger area, directly.

If we ever bump into each other we could use my nanocom.

Not yet !! But soon I’m buying stuff from them left right and centre before they do.

Yes … I am / was hoping the series 1 club would buy all their relevant stock. You would think both of them would be invested in that as it will protect the maintenance of those vehicles …. I’ve not heard of anything like that though.

It’s continuous … and I agree it’s horrendous. I have found that that is configurable though in nanocom - you can switch from to pulse. When it was sounding I drove it up the road to get it away from houses. It was pretty unbearable under the bonnet trying to shut it off.

I’ve seen S3 boxes rebuilt with the mechanical clutch set up. It worked well. I’ve driven my 80” with a 200tdi and the original S1 gearbox. The gearbox was tired and I’d forgotten that it jumped out of gear … so I’ve gone back and separately put together a rebuilt S2a gearbox and am in the process of swapping that over now. I’ll keep the original gearbox in storage - so it can stay with the car, and I went for a 2a box because I like having no synchro on 1st and 2nd. You could take a similar approach with your 107. Gradually put together another series box and then when you are ready - of if you have problems with the S1 box - swap them over.

I took mine to a car wash - it needed it. Then a bit of a drive and pulled up by a river where I had to park on quite a steep side slope. It started just after that. All I can think is that water got in somewhere that connects the alarm wiring and - and it perhaps operates through a switched ground with the water shorting it somehow. They have two types on alarm horns on Td5’s I think. Some with a internal battery (BBAS?) and some without … I think the ones without that internal battery are the only ones that use that fuse? Either way - mine wasn’t immobilised, couldn’t be disarmed, and the noise wasn’t coming from the horn behind the headlight.. I need to find that horn and see if I can see what’s happened. All in all a rather unpleasant experience.

That’s beautiful!! The 107SW are really rather rare - so for that reason too I’d leave it as it is ! The 107SW has certain parts on it that are unique to that model and should be cherished! Particularly interior parts I think. There are a couple of good S1 groups on Facebook if you use it: https://m.facebook.com/groups/1023712700977745/?ref=group_browse https://m.facebook.com/groups/368498789883998/?ref=group_browse The club is called LRSOC - if you pop that in a search you’ll find them. They are a good resource for history, they have a magazine which seems popular, and they sell some remanufactured rare parts. For parts Craddocks seem to be a nightmare - showing things in stock that aren’t is such a common story. For NOS we’ve lost Dunsfold sadly - PA Blanchard is still around, they’re not cheap but they have top quality bits and hot everything is expensive. Dingo Croft are good too I think. I think the 107SW was the first LR to be offered with fully floating rear half shafts ..? Beautiful vehicle!

Found that fuse - it’s 15a and I owe you a massive thank you my god - now put the headlight back and get home and put my daughter to bed …

I’ll look thank you ive pulled the headlight out and disconnected the black horn and it’s still going it’s driving me insane - I want to go home !!

The alarm is sounding on my Td5 Defender and isn’t responding to the plip - nor is it immobilising the car. How can I stop it ? I have a nanocom but can’t find anywhere to disable it. Do I need to get behind the headlight and disconnect it ? Help !

Sounds like a plan that will pay dividends on the second diff too 🙂

Sorry - need to keep up and keep my glasses on ..

That looks like the Ineos front end to me !

Rover called the colour on the first 1500 ‘Light Green’ 🙂 People in the club have been calling it Sage Green for many years - but they can trace that name back to someone outside of the Factory.

Watching now !