bodumatau

luckily I came prepared. one thing to note is that my coolant temp sensor reads about 10 degrees too warm at low temps, so 5 real temp is read as 15/16 by the sensor

ja sorry Bowie, I have been known to be hard of listening...... ok so I have changed to "warm up only", the idle was a bit high so I fiddled with my upper and lower parameters and settled on 41 and 31 (figured that as it was too high at 25 and only got higher as I went down to 24,23 etc I tried going up and it got better till 31 and then started revving higher again, hope my logic works) here it is with my ASE

thanks Bowie, um ... ahhh... ASE? which one is that ?? After Start Enrichment?

could it be a fuel pressure problem? this is the first start this morning, for some reason the fuel pressure reads -6 just after the start, in the first 4 seconds increases to about 4+ and then decreases again to 0 just around the time the engine is dying. 2017-02-23_08.42.40.msl and the start right away after that the fuel pressure comes up quickly and remains at +6/7. 2017-02-23_08.42.53.msl

thats only with the turbo version, we have no turbo 4,2's in Southern Africa on pickup Land Cruisers, and with our high density altitude the NA 4,2 struggles for air.....a lame lump IIRC the 4,2 without turbo develops about 95KW and 290NM torque in the book (at sea level). Where I operate in Botswana we are at 3000ft Above sea level and with temps in the high 30's (Celcius) we are seeing Density altitudes of 5000-7000ft, a NA engine looses about 3% power per 1000 foot so we are loosing between 15 and 21% power on the poor 95KW (128HP)...... and have 102hp pushing along a BIG vehicle....

it just so happens that my turbo pipe came off on my TD5 and I was too lazy to put it on for the drive back home so I drove it without the turbo connected for about 40 min, then a week or so later I took the 4,2 on safari, well it performed exactly the same as the TD5 without a turbo..... and thats a little 2,5 engine

I'll give you £14 for it if you want to get rid of it, I could do with all that extra power

@Bowie69, not straight away, it revs, settles, and about 4 seconds in I can hear the EAV choke down and it kills the engine. here is the first log with the engine dying after about 4 seconds. 2017-02-22_10.51.08.msl and here is the restart straight after that settles and idles fine. 2017-02-22_10.51.33.msl and after 4 seconds on this one (ok 3,87ish seconds) the PW goes into idle mode and regulates the idle perfectly.

so it appears my rejoicing was premature @Fridge freezer, still chocking down after the first start, but seems now to wait a second or two longer before closing down. so I still need to find out why it chokes down after a few seconds after startup. I still suspect it is connected to the max/min parameters of the EAV, anyone know how to test them? I have sorted the start up revving Bowie, used Cranking(dc) 45, now revs up to about 1200 for half a second then settles nicely to my warmup rpm of around 1000.

hey chicken yes I would have to do the conversion myself, problem is that I am not on site the whole year round and that is when my numpty's get numpting. agreed the TD5 direct replacement would be the easier and better option, I just need to convince my business partners who by now have an ever deepening hate for them :D. Traction control doesn't work in our environment as it is a power robbing process so only works if you have LOTS of extra power, we don't have traction control, no ABS, only good old fashioned diff lock. we also strip out the heater, frees up quite a bit of space for extra bits.

retro I'll send them to you for 4 weeks, let me know how your sanity is after that we start off with very very poor education with these guys, they don't know basic life skills, only ever used an axe effectively, which they default to when in doubt. even those with certificates don't know the difference between a 6 and 8mm bolt, they are 10mm bolts and 13mm bolts respectively, we try very hard to train them, repeatedly, but haven't achieved results yet (and when they do get to a level that they can do something they have been with use for 5+ years, get the wanderlust and go to the next higher bidder.....been there done that several times)

I have looked at the turner engine option, sure they build excellent quality engines but again my obstacle would be my numpty (perfect description Bowie) mechanics then messing it all up by not getting turbos on right, stripping manifold bolts (this they can do really really well, AND then drill them out about 20 degrees off bolt center so that they drill into the cavity next to the stud thread!!) the TD5's were awesome for their first 250k km until the numpties got their dirty fingers into the engine... cummins can give me similar and then pluck them out and put fresh in after 200-250 (7-10 years) then it could work for me.

hi Maverik and Fridge Freezer I am running about 15 TD5's, 13of which are 150's then some long double cabs. we do relatively low milage, only about 30-40k km per year, but 75% of this is on thick sandy bush tracks. (you might laugh at my "about 15", but they live and die so erratically that I can't be precise) locally available in Botswana!!, you crack me up FF, ever considered a career in comedy?? we hold more stock for Land Rovers than Land Rover Botswana does (about 10 times more)...... Maun is 900km from Gaborone, 1200km from South Africa, and nothing is locally available or reliable or "quickly" order on any bay of any sort or any jungle named website, we do everything by order, some things take 2 weeks to bring from South Africa and some things take 4-6 weeks to bring from the UK...... my biggest challenge right now is that my workshop team doesn't have the skills to make a TD5 work again once they have taken it apart, in fact I wouldn't trust them with much anything, so I need functioning units to replace with, we order our gearboxes and transfer cases from ashcroft and this seems to work well (if I keep reminding my team to put the clutch plate in the right way round), and I am not around to guide them in the workshop.... not really keen on scratching for "donor" vehicles, then having to deal with slight differences in year model, basically having to rework it for each vehicle and having each one being its own princess, this is why I look for one common engine product, this way I know all can be made the same, one conversion mission for me that I can plan for, commit myself to a few weeks workshop time and convert a batch of 6 vehicles (or whatever works) in one go. to make all of this worse I recently put 6 brand new toyota land cruisers into my fleet and was reminded why I hate them so much.....never driven such a flat, powerless engine as the 4,2 diesel 1HZ

greetings Land Rover people I have a fleet of Td5 safari vehicles in Botswana and the TD5's lives are coming to an end, some are dying around 2-300k km and others only at 400, 450+, but they are dying, and I am looking for an alternative, 300Tdi doesn't have enough power, our vehicles are 150" wheelbase 12 seaters that pull big trailers though thick botswana sand so we need an engine with lots of guts. Personally I love V8's but carrying around 250 litres of highly flammable fuel in a vehicle with 12 people in doesn't tickle my fancy. I was wondering if anyone has an experience with these engines: https://cumminsengines.com/repower and whether it would work as a replacement engine for a TD5. thanks Heiko

ok thanks Bowie, I only tried as low as 70, but will try lower and see.....

ok, so just been in my chucking filly garage and fiddled a bit. 1. my coolant temp sensor is off by about 10 degrees, another thermometer read 5,6 degrees and coolant sensor said 14 degrees..... how important is it that this is accurate? it seems to come in line with my VDO gauge over 50 degrees and read the correct temp in the engines operating range but at low temps it is out. 2. adjusting the "Cranking(dc)" didn't change the high revs on startup but changing my "idle valve frequency" back to 190 did, I previously had it at 200, now tried to fiddle with it between 100-150-180-190, seemed to get the best results at 190, so now have to wait for the engine to cool down again so I can try again...... hurry up and wait.... 3. @FridgeFreezer, today she again didn't choke down after start, I have adjust the lower parameter of my EAV much lower than i had it before, whether these are now the correct settings for where my valve actually opens I have no idea but it seems to be working, I think I had the wrong values in there and because the EAV didn't see values it recognised it just shut down to minimum....? ?? .... hypothesising here with ZERO fabric to prove what I am saying!!!!! but hoping I am onto something....

and that would be the "Cranking(dc)"?, funny thing is that I had decreased is from 90 to 80 with the implementation of Nigels "base" settings, and it still revved higher on the start. but. I had my "idle valve frequency" at 200 instead of 100..... (alltoomuchformylittlebrain) nevertheless I will try decreasing it by a few numbers and see what it does, thanks for the tip Bowie.

a tentative...... very tentative celebration, seem to have fixed the 2 start symptom (maybe only cause it is a few degree warmer today), but now have to wait another few hours till its cold enough to confirm my hopefulness..... let you all know tomorrow. one other question, revving directly after starting, is this directly related to the warmup enrichment? she revs up to 1600-2000 rpm after the start now for 3-4 seconds (which I don't like) and then settles down to the cold rev (set at around 1000), which tells me it must be something else cause the warmup enrichment doesn't change in the few seconds after start.

how do I find the fully closed and fully open values for my Bosch extra air valve? (PWM valve or whatever we want to call it)

Haha FF !! that would be like the schoolboy teaching the teacher a trick!! what my little brain can't figure out is WHAT changes from the first start to the second, ALL the info the MS is getting is still the same as the first start (running for 4-5 seconds from dead cold doesn't change any temps more than 0.1 degrees.) and yet, like clockwork, first time = choke down, second time = perfect textbook start.

hi Bowie, thanks for answering, you can always be relied on for help ;-) this was my idle settings before I changed back to Nigels original settings: and this is after changing back to Nigels settings: and nothing has changed for the start except it revs a little higher for a few seconds with Nigels settings, then still gets choked down as the PWM closes. try it again immediately after and the PWN does its thing and doesn't choke the motor down.......

still struggling with the die after start story, now that the temperatures are lower. following happens, she starts first time, no problem, then after about 2 seconds I can hear the PWM "close down" (makes a clear air choking noise) and it kills the engine. then I immediately start her again and all is good, idles nicely, happy days. so why does it choke it off the first time and a few seconds later it works fine. just spent a few minutes resetting everything to Nigels original base MSQ file, only thing I left on my old settings is the crank correction angle for my muggled trigger wheel installation. and she still does exactly the same thing, dies off after first start, fine on second start immediately after.

haha just saw now that Derodster said 60 MPH not KPH I assumed kph.......Low range might struggle to achieve 60 MPH

only 60 means you are in low range !!