bodumatau

Mutts, you need 3 things. 1. an old anvil 2. a big hammer 3. a cold beer when things arent going well, BEFORE you burst that blood vessel in your eye, take the big hammer and hit the old anvil HARD, then sit down and slowly enjoy your beer, you will find things work much better and often you will even manage to find the "certain special @#$&¥%€ tools"

also a good time to check that your shock mounting hole is still round and not eating through your shock bolt.... if you drop your axle and the spring doesn't come out, before you start jumping on the axle or putting bottle jacks in just try and compress the spring by hand a little, often you can move it the half inch that is needed to get it out by hand.

put a cummins in there with a heavy duty R380 from ashcroft and a 1,6 transfer case and you will have a seriously serious offroad load carrying machine, got any pics of your 6x6?

any luck Soutie ? are you throwing hammers around the workshop and frothing at the mouth or loving the way your cab fits?

yes, I am doing the repower through Cummins South Africa/Botswana, so they are fitting the engine themselves and testing it before I get it, this way it isn't a "backyard" conversion and they can give me guarantees and are satisfied that the engine is correctly installed. the cummins crate engine comes in many varieties, with or without aircon, with or without catalyser, with or without power steering etc etc etc, we have chosen a variant without aircon (makes life easier for the right mounted steering box), and slightly "de-rated" from the MAX which these engines can give which is 160hp and 410NM which is too much for a R380 and too much for my drivers skill set... I will let you guys know how it goes. here are some pics of the preliminary fitting:

🤣 Badger you are welcome to have the ones we take out, I have a row of them sitting in a room in Botswana...

@ MODERATORS - can I add more tags to this thread? I would like to add "cummins 2,8" and have clicked around a bit but no luck.

good luck with the fiddle, remember, if it is not working DONT hit it with a hammer, the paint tends to come off...... rather have a beer and try again in 5 min.

Soutie, remember that your body is a bunch of bits bolted together, each one could have a little error that adds up to a lot. maybe the problem starts right down in your firewall attachment, extrapolates itself through the long lever of the firewall and then the windscreen adds another 2mm and suddenly you have 5mm too much, question is whether all the extra effort to find the error is worth it or if you are happy with a bit of extra sikaflex and can "not see" the 5mm overhang each time you walk past the front of the car 🤣 actually do yourself a favour and fit your doors temporarily, this is the quickest way to know where the error is, cause its the fitting of your doors that are going to give you the biggest headache if your cab is not "right", remember your door can't change shape and your cab can, so your cab needs to change shape till it fits the door. nothing worse than fitting a door to a newly rebuilt cab only to have it eating the paint on the front top corner or back top corner.....makes you very grumpy very quickly.

drumming, thats the word I was looking for, irritating as hell and pretty easy to solve with a little bit of mass, and then you get extra insulation from sound and heat thrown in as a bonus. silent coat? do you have a link to that pls? I dont know the product

Soutie dont forget that LR was built with a ½" tolerance, so anything less than 12,7mm is "straight" and correct 🤣 jokes aside, I always ensure that my door pillars are straight (more important with a single cab than a SW) and then find the middle ground with the rest of the bits. as Western suggests, assemble all loosely, check straightness and alignment of B post and C "post" - then find middle ground so that everything sort of "fits" - dont forget some sikaflex to help the alignment errors - most importantly DONT SEAL YOUR FLOOR - the land rover WILL leak, the water needs to escape somewhere 😉 if by some chance you find your roof fitting perfectly then you have probably misappropriated the neighbours G class merc, they look quite similar to LR.

most likely your linkages that engage diff lock ON/OFF are loose and this results in the dog clutch that locks your diff not disengaging properly causing it to "rattle"/"grind" on the edge of the engaging teeth. as many have said above check your linkages first, I know its a PITA because you can't get in there properly but its a common problem, specially if the transmission has been worked on the the mechanics were confuzzled by the linkages and the need for the "little plastic bits" in the linkages that make them work properly.....I know I had to speak very loudly (shout) at my mechanics before they decided to understand

nick those roof skins are very thin/flexible, if you have it apart why not put some heavy paint in there like a bin liner/stone chip/rubber paint/rhino liner or something, makes a big difference to the insulation making it both quieter and keeping out heat/cold in. have also tried sticking bitumen/alu sheeting on there and it works great until it gets really hot and then might peel off, thats why a bin liner type paint is better.

greetings all - a quick update on this thread.... 1. we are still hating our LC 4,2's 2. replaced 5 rebuilt TD5's in the last 2 seasons and all have failed, they were rebuilt by a "reputable" LR shop in SA. we had been trying to figure out a reliable conversion that was properly engineered and it seems Cummins SA have come up with a solution... so our first "old lady" - is being refitted with a 2,8 cummins that is derated to about 140hp and 360nm, more than the TD5 but not that much more to kills drivetrains, watch this space and I will update you on ow it goes. Cummins South Africa are going about it the right way and doing their homework intensively, they will load test the vehicle once it is complete with both an upgraded cooling pack (radiator and charge cooler) and the standard cooling pack and we are hoping to have the vehicle ready to drive back in Botswana by end April.... transmission is rebuilt Ashcroft R380 with HD bearing and LT230 with the heavy duty option and the ATB. hold thumbs for us that it works out, then we can throw heaps of money at new engines in old ladies....

Hello all I have a ''83 110 with a RR 3,5 V8 in it and I cannot, even after repeated tries get the thermostat housing to stop leaking. each time I put a new gasket in, clean it up really well, last 2 times I have also put a thin layer of good quality silicon gasket maker to try help, this last time now I even let the silicon cure overnight, still always the same problem, its not a serious leak, "sweats" out from (I suspect) the lower bolt, but it irritates the §4!7 out of me. am I maybe over tightening the little ½" bolts with my mits? any tips out there?

thats a blerry good direa 😁

thats a pretty looking 100 Arjan, even if it is on a trailer.....

any oil that lubricates works, obviously you dont want to be using engine oil or gear oil and spreading this all over the forest. I have even used cooking oil for brief periods. proper chainsaw oil is stickier than most, beware of storing it outside in the shed though it separates below certain temperatures.

I have made the snorkels out of steam pipe bends, in the old days before I could afford stainless I used the cast ones and they are a little heavy but work fine. can get them on eBay easily in any diameter, just careful whether the seller is referring to inside diameter or outside diameter. search for "3'' Inches 76mm Stainless Steel Car Exhaust Weld 90° Bend Elbow Pipe Fitting Pro" on eBay. AFAIK the cheap safari snorkel heads fit onto a 88-90mm pipe search "SAFARI STYLE SNORKEL HEAD LAND ROVER" I have built one with the bent over top like dangerous doug but found it to suck some water when driving in heavy rain, the safari snorkel seems to do better.

Hey Wheely, I find that gauges are great and important but there some habits that are just as important..... check your oil and water levels each morning, this quickly gives you an indication of any potential problems. check under your vehicle every morning, look for new leaks, loose things, bolts with shiny spots around the head (shows you bolt is loose and vibrating), don't be shy to put a hand onto things and give them a wiggle any time you stop check your wheel bearing temps by hand, if you driving hard on the open road at 100+kmh you should still be able to touch your wheel hub without it burning you, and if you find left side hotter than right side you have an early warning. have spare oils, brake fluid etc with you, but don't let some drips under the gearbox or transfer case make you try and fill your gearbox each day, it takes a lot of "drips" to make it worth it to open the box and top up..... only to find that less than 50ml goes in... and above all, enjoy, if you break down you won't be the first, or the last, so enjoy the african hospitality, smiling faces and helpful people and when you get back on the road you will have a story to tell....

Sam a question, since you didn't find water in the intake side. did you stall in the deep water? we do lots of very deep water crossings in Botswana and one "rule" is to be very careful not to stall as the "exhaust will cool down and suck water into the piston with the exhaust valve open, I must admit I have never experienced this or seen it happen on a vehicle but it might be what happened.?

to piggy back on the post....... I need to replace my drop arm ball joint, in my old parts manual I see a "kit" part number of RTC 4198, is this correct? I see a circlip on the back of the ball joint, are these easy to change or do I need to take out the whole drop arm? mine is a LHD 1983 110, I suspect the power steering might have been fitted at a later stage.

just remember you have 4 reasonably heavy aluminium hammers being explosively activated 2,91 times every second at an idle of 700rpm which cause a lot of vibration and stress to everything connected to the hammers (pistons), link that with a longer than needed leverage (no support on your fuel line) and the result is material fatigue and failure.

awesome!! thanks Red

Thanks Red. I was think more along the line of perhaps someone had had to replace the mounting brackets on the axle and had some drawings of those that they could share with me.