bodumatau

Dana is almost impossible to contact, been at it for a couple of weeks now, closest I have come is an axle assembly company called Dynatrac in the USA who use DANA axles and who specialise rather in jeeps than LR, the Salsbury axle is not quite a Dana 60, perhaps the differential casing and the ring gear are the same but the axle tubes and wall thickness of the axle tubes are not, unless Dana have changed their specs significantly in the last years. so now I am trying to get Dynatrac to build me up some new axles for my Land Rover fleet which is why I need some info and help from the forum

Hello all does anyone have accurate measurements of the track width of the Salsbury axle, I have measured and get about 1555mm (61,02 inches) or generally for the defender, what is the track width (without wheels on, just axle track width) does anyone have drawings of the front and rear axles for the defender, I need to bend up some new axle mountings any info would be appreciated. kind regards to all Heiko

my business partner got tired of the gaps in his doors and he fixed it the quickest and easiest way there is. he bought himself a mercedes ML, now the doors close, doesn't leak in, can't hear the people chatting in the car next door when your engine is off. downside if he needs to get out the car to tell which direction the wind is coming from.

fridge is there a build thread for adding a Pi Zero to a MS1 system? do i understand correctly that you can then get rid of your serial connection and connect via wifi to your MS?

almost sounds more like a bad earth to me.....

I'll be setting them to 2mm and be going a whole lot faster jokes aside, thanks for the feedback guys.

perfect then I'll just leave the new ones lying on the fender and hook them up and it should work

and spark gap, digging through the forum I found a value of 1mm because of the ford coil packs? the standard gap was 0,7/0,8mm?

busy planning my first service since installing MS, with the coil ignition do i still use the same spark plug? or is there a better plug for more spark/better ignition? engine is a 3.5 with 9.35:1 compression

going to end up spending as much on oil changes as a new transfer box flipping hell, oil is expensive these days!!!

Three Point Five..... if you think it is a headache fitting it then just wait till you try tune it !!!! saying that......I converted my flapper to MS1, using one of Nige's kits, and now that I have got it running sweetly it is SUCH A PLEASURE, so much MORE of a pleasure than the flapper was!!!! so while I was also very very VERY frustrated at times installing my MS and even more frustrated tuning it...... I think it has been worth it!!! a HUGE help has certainly been this forum, without that I would often have floundered or given up...

I would fill it with petrol and then turn by hand till I felt that all the bits were washed off the higher lying parts of the trf box, then drain and flush once with oil, drain and then fill with proper oil. the secret is in the repeated flushing and draining. not entirely sure if the petrol will affect the seals etc if it is in there for a few minutes, i don't think so. did a similar thing once when I opened my LT95 101 gearbox on the road between Kasane and Maun after it make a godawful noise and dropped the reverse gear, when i drained the oil it was just a paste of metal filings, I put some petrol in, drove 100m, drained it, filled with engine oil and drove home the 500km to Maun without a reverse gear.... oh and the reverse gear I took out of the side inspection cover the LT95's have

Keith you still have air in the system somewhere, it likes trapping itself in the high points where the pipe goes around corners and has extra bends built in to stop cracks from vibrations, you simply need to bleed it better, I got myself a cheap self bleed system where you pump the fluid in under a bit of pressure, works a charm.

Ickzackly Trickydicky, what you call the drain hole I call the grease escape hole if it is full enough with grease then no space for water to get in BUT it must be free so that either extra grease or water can get out.

I agree with SNagger that the most important is greasing, but you can't grease effectively without the grease having a little hole to escape (usually inside the fork for the Universal joint), if your propshaft is stiffening up it is most likely they this little hole is blocked and you will be damaging more than just your propshaft when it stiffens up, if puts tremendous load on your transfer box flanges.

or move to Botswana where you leave your keys in the ignition so you don't loose them.

I think it depends a lot on the dish depth of your rim, with a deeper dish you push the wheel further out, making the wider tyre not rub on the inside, but as Bowie says you will just be throwing MORE mud past your arches. I do know that 900/16 tyres (255/100r16) are about 36" and they rub on the radius arm. the 315's are about 33,4" the standard 235's are about 31,7"

no, silicon is rubbish, not a long term solution, most of the stuff we can buy in retail is not worth the packaging it is put in.

one of these might also help, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-Alloy-Elbow-Bends-Aluminium-Lightweight-Metal-Pipe-Swaged-Polished/200967481273?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D4226ee561aca4d86b9426774f34f11a6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D351017950576

so it seems to be working now at those last settings I screen shotted (screenshat?) ...... hasn't strangled itself now for 3 days on first start...... but..... it has been 1-2 degrees warmer, so difficult to say, but I think we have found the solution.

so..... tried to add 30% to the ASE, started, DIED, ARRGHH!!!! then I moved the enrichment one temperature level up since my coolant gauge reads about 10 degrees to cold at low temperatures. also changed the MAP mode during ASE to a constant one and this morning it started perfectly and didn't die!! now I am hoping that it isnt just another lucky strike, will try a few more cold morning starts and hope this solves it.

I used silicon hoses I bought on fleabay for about 20-30€ each, you could buy a 90 with a reducer from 80-72 in it, then cut the 90 off somewhere in the bend to get the right angle. those AFM pipes of Nigels have a flared end so it wont really matter if you only have enough pipe over the tube to get a hose clamp on. but that would put the AFM pipe very close to your plenum. I had to shorten my 90 degree silicon hose onto the plenum to be as short as possible so my AFM pipe could fit past my brake booster (LHD the brake booster is on the other side)

I'm not sure I agree that it is after start fuelling, it is still dying after first start, and running sweetly immediately on the next start, if it was WUE then it should die again. if it was ASE it should also die again as the only parameter that has changed is that it has warmed up by 0,5 degrees.

@Bowie69, did you leave the pipes to the throttle warmer open?

and you will find it is not a 6mm, but rather some funny size i don't have but a lot of fun to play with and get your idle right once you find something that fits into the grub screw