bodumatau

I always "feel" the transfer box into high or low with the clutch, without doing this you run the risk of it not quite going in and damaging itself when it "jumps" out. so I have just made a habit of always feeling it in, select 1st or reverse, pop it out of the current hi or low, then push it till you feel resistance in the desired hi or low, then let the clutch out till it just just starts biting and immediately depress the clutch again while pressing the gear lever and it slips in beautifully, once you have done that you KNOW it won't slip out with a bang and you can give it horns confidently.

absolutely no idea, but you will need a set of these: so that you can hold on to your steering wheel once you done

Speedy4needy, here is my throttle linkage, it is "backwards" to the standard one that came with the 3,9 plenum, I suppose because of the LHD? but not sure. remember this vehicle was changed from 2,5NAS to RRC 3,5 flapper at some point in its life by someone with a christmas tree wiring fetish which was what triggered my need for MS so I could redo the wiring. so i can't guarantee that my bracket is anything original. here you see how close the brake servo is to my pipes, had to shorten the elbow so the AFM pipe didn't buzz against the steel servo casing. here is my challenge with my PWM (extra Air flow valve), my bracket is in the way, used one of my bent pipes to get it over the bracket but also not perfect. here from the other side, if I had the 9th injector in the back of the plenum (i think that is what the bracket on the back is for) then my cable would foul that. from the front, you can just see the black allen key screw of the idle bleed screw peeking out of the side of the throttle body. from the back of the engine, the bracket just bolts onto the 3 bolts on the side of the throttle body, the thread on both the flapper plenum and the 3,9 plenum were an imperial thread, 11 spanner, about a 6mm thick screw with a coarser thread than an M6 so be careful not to try force a M6 into there. hope this helps.....

needy4speedy!! my flapper accelerator brackets bolted straight onto the 3,9 Plenum Nige sent me with my MS kit, no problems, only thing I had to change was the air bleed screw adjustment so that my 3,5 would idle properly. but.... my flapper bracket fouls the pipes for the "PWM" valve, so I have had to bodge that a little, will send some pics later today when I get my iPad into the garage.

and anyway, if you fix all the leaks you have to take the land rover badge off, ALL land rovers leak......

fit yes, legally fit.... that depends on the tyre manufacturers specification. each tyre has a specific minimum and maximum rime width size it can fit on.

Nige, I would also be interested in an MSQ for my 3,5 V8 9,35 compression, my ECU only came with some 350 cubic inch preset in it. any chance of emailing me one?

Disc bolts FTC1368 x 10 pieces? caliper bolts FTC3375 x 4 pieces? whats the difference here to the AFU1031? does the ventilated disc improve braking? (I know it will recover better from prolonged hard braking but does it improve normal braking?)

any chance I can tap into your wealth of part number wisdom? ventilated disc FTC 902? caliper STC 1267 LH and STC 1266 RH ? bolt off old ones bolt on new ones?

i think I found that one but front solid to vented discs?

slightly off topic, wasn't there a thread about converting the different axles to disc brakes? I have solid discs on my front axle which I would like to change at some point to ventilated and on the rear i have (as far as i can figure out) a RRC rear axle with disc brakes. I am sure i stumbled across a thread at some point but cant seem to find it now.

yes we pulled the ecu out of under the seat on the TD5 and put in the seat back of the middle front seat, lifts the wade depth quite a bit, the TD5 throttle works under water just not for very long. when it gets too deep we do this

yes, that one, I get hysteria when my thermostat shows hysteresis you are dealing with a colonially raised child here Fridge, need to be patient with my Souf Efrikan english

yep literally, I have since learnt the word "hysteria", it showed a hysteria of between 10 and 15 degrees which I can't see being beneficial to the engine, I think that the cheap and nasty thermostat wasn't linear with its opening, or it was starting to stick, so would stay closed until slightly over its 88 degrees and then "spring" open. I am going to order an 88 degree then and install it, might just clip off the breather toggle one way thingy so there is just that little bit more circulation around the thermostat and the engine doesn't get that cold shock as the thermostat opens, and have less cavitation on the water pump (not sure how much this will help but surely must help a little thanks for the input FF and Quaggy

I have waded through the odd 1km stretch of water over the bonnet, with a stretched 150" TD5 and pulling a big trailer, this is sort of standard practice in Botswana in the rainy season. Snorkels, you would be surprised how deep you can wade if you manage to maintain a steady bow wave, you can wade water well over a meter deep AS LONG AS YOU DONT STOP, cause then the bow wave disappears and your air filter sucks water and your diesel engine teaches you all about hydraulic lock. many of the aftermarket "snorkels" are little more than makeup, not even good make up, sure they move your intake up to above the windscreen but none of them remember your filter housing has a "ducks arse" which allows dust and water droplets that get into your filter housing to escape, problem is that it is merely a thin little rubber flap that can remain open if something larger gets lodged in it (twigs, nuts, leaves etc) so be SURE to seal this up, I smear mine up with silicon and then stick them back on but even this is not foolproof as the silicon doesn't permanently bond to the rubber. next is to ensure that your pipes between the snorkel are firmly on, don't leak, have hose clamps (not always easy with the cramped space of the fender mounted pipes), then I have seen snorkels with a clever drain hole at the bottom of the pipe, great to suck water in!! breathers on your axle and gearbox help to a certain extent, but they are not foolproof, if you enter a puddle after a long fast run your axle is probably around 60-80 degrees C (gearbox a LOT hotter), then you plunge it into cold water and all that hot air in there contracts viciously, now your teensy weensy little breather pipe is trying its best to let air through but it can't manage so your axle sucks through the hub seals, pinion seals and it sucks water in, so be careful of that. Standard LR axle breathers are almost as badly designed as the door seals so I won't even discuss those, after a couple of years of bush life they die. wading plugs , I once parked my 143" (extra long double cab) in the Zambezi to give it a good wash, forgot that I had taken out the wading plugs and when I got back in the clutch wouldn't bite because it was soaked wet, so i had to recover it with my high lift, slowly pulling it out backwards, until the bell housing could drain, even then it took 2 minutes of low range reverse engaged before it started biting and moving the vehicle, i gave myself the prize idiot badge on that day.

dragging up this thread instead of starting another one. I had an 88 degree thermostat in my V8 before I installed megasquirt and it would drive me nuts "yo-yoing" during normal driving, so my temp would fluctuate between 85 and 95/100 while driving, only pushing it hard in summer (german summer = 30max) would the thermostat stay open. I have a VDO gauge installed not the LR one. to remedy this I installed a 74?72? degree thermostat when I installed my megasquirt, but now it never reaches more than 85!! even pushing hard in summer. looking at my old 88 degree thermostat it is a "MotoRad" so strongly assuming it is NOT OEM, it also has no bleed hole. now my questions: 1. surely this yo-yoing is not good for the engine? 2. is there an advantage installing a thermostat in the "middle" 82 degree? 3. or should I just go for the 88 degree standard? OEM, I am assuming a proper quality one won't yo-yo? (and my heating will work better again!!) can anyone help me out with this?

then you might need one of these: those blowers a quite spritely

Problem is not only running the blower in Summer but rather the fact that because of a lower pressure inside the cab and the poor design of the heating box there is ALWAYS airflow into the cab, even if it is off, and it is ALWAYS significantly warmer than the outside air temperate because it is maybe not flowing through the matrix but around it and still being heated up. the only way to solve this in really hot countries is to either positive pressure your cab with the bulkhead vents, but at low speeds and hot days also this air is heated over the bonnet, or close all the windows and rely on the air con, which is also feeble in most Defenders. this is why my thinking of making the matrix completely cold came about, this way even the "bleed" flow that comes through by default is not heated.

I don't think it does (concur with Red90) but..... i have on occasion used the heater matrix for extra cooling in the peak of summer when my radiator is full of Kalahari grass seeds and the temp gauge starts creeping, haha, but those we also other times, an old V8 in an old 101 full of happy tourists pulling a beeg trailer..... passengers weren't too happy about me putting on the heater though with 40 plus degrees outside , luckily it was a soft top 101.

as an idea, if you were to install a ball valve on one side of the heater pipes? that would render the heater matrix "cold" as it no longer has any flow through it, this might be an idea for summer so that we can also use our supercharged blowers then to get cool air into the cab, mine never really blows cool even on the cold setting.

yep, I use the above and they ship to germany for 5 quid, usually is there in 3-4 working days

now you talking!!, not only will it let more air out it will also mean that not only one shin get cooked, then you can bake both shins equally. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-Dash-Air-Vent-Heater-Duct-Eberspacher-Webasto-/200557527510?hash=item2eb22901d6:m:mN3CZHDpvfDX3sogzS65P2w http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/84mm-Black-Rocking-Vane-Dashboard-Heater-Air-Vent-For-Kit-Car-Rally-/282010357111?hash=item41a9208d77:g:JbwAAOSwv-NWVxPg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-fiesta-outer-dash-airvent-vent-2006-2007-2008-face-lift-dashPrice-per-Unit1-/182317446958?hash=item2a72f7772e:g:ES0AAOSwqYBWplGn

just buy it online, I looked quickly on amazon.fr and found this https://www.amazon.fr/Etekcity®-Multimètre-Rétroéclairé-Résistance-Continuité/dp/B00S7J7L7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477495008&sr=8-1&keywords=multimetre+voltmetre I am sure the bay of many things also has them for cheaper I have been using a el-cheapo like that for years, works fine and have no qualms about throwing it into my toolbox.

yes, I only ask myself why I was stupid enough NOT to do it when I had my dash off......no pills for stupid. so I will get some more practice taking my dash off again it seems. will be the most practiced LR dash remover EVA!! angry bilge blower fan ordered......

some excellent points here, one thing that I saw in Westerns "Feeling the cold in your truck" post that I didn't see repeated here but I think has relevance, especially if you put a bilge blower in and wish to move more air is what Lars L posted on the 3rd Dec 2008: "But I think that the most important modification was that I opened up that silly little opening in the bulkhead. The opening is just about half the size of the outlet from the heater. The bulkhead opening is now almost as big as the heater duct." I am sure this will also make a big difference. another thing I have seen done is to insulated the outside of the heater matrix box, I am sure that tin can radiates and looses a lot of heat. my heater works quite well, bit less now since I fitted a 72 degree thermostat from Nige, but knew that in advance that it would affect the heater output. my 110 being completely open I use a blanket in winter over the knees and held onto the dash with a few hand clamps to keep the legs and feet toasty warm when I go on outings.