bodumatau

but still is the question "which feed from the ECU"? don't have the destructions for the tacho anymore but it has these three little switches on the back so I am sure I can set it up, only need to know where I can take a signal from.

yes I did order them together, as a solution for my VDO tacho, I too assume this...... but we all know that assumption is the mother of all **ckups. lets wait for Nigel to get back to me...... last thing to do before I close up my dash and put all the bit back together.

exactly Bowie, but that is my question, what is ECU tachout on the MS1 ? none of the pins are labelled with this.... and I am too afraid to fiddle and try lest I pop the ECU. He is alive !!!

tried that..... but he doesn't answer either emails or telephone..... otherwise I wouldn't be bothering you guys. this is what my tacho fix looks like.

Bowie thanks for the answer, but I only have the following wires. 1. red - assume this is power 2. black - assume this is ground 3. orange - this is labelled ECU 4. yellow - labelled tacho so I don't understand how to connect to the 4 EDIS wires? or do I only need to tap into one of them?

to answer my question, Megalog Viewer can analyse a log and tune the VE table accordingly, this is exactly what I am looking for, this way I can put together a really long log with different kinds of driving and then get a VE table which covers all of my driving patterns not only one day. now I just need to figure out how to put logs together so megalog viewer thinks its all one log.

does anyone know how to connect a "tach fix" box sold by Nigel? I bought one from him with my MS kit but didn't get any instructions, my old tacho was driven off the trigger wire from my coil, now not having a trigger wire I need to run it off the ECU? but which pin?

Richard, your temp sensor for the dash gauge is left of your thermostat housing (on the hotwire top end), I ended up changing mine for a VDO gauge and sensor as the vague "cold/hot" gauge in the LR irritated me. I also tried 2 LR sensors which didn't work before I got fed up and put the VDO in. in your picture i think the right hand sensor is your CTS which needs to go to the ECU, same plug as an injector, at least this is how is is with the hotwire intake assembly. so your ECU and dash gauge get their sensor info from two different sources. rev counter I got a "tach fix" little box from Nigel but no instructions which wire to take from the ECU to trigger it.

I keep getting AFR target table anomalies. usually my tables look like this: but on some data logs or if I ask TS to generate me a AFR table then all values go to 5V like this: what am I doing wrong?

looking for a new speedometer for my '83 V8, the current one looks like it had been gently opened with a street jackhammer...... I have found this part number PRC 7374, for around 120-150 quid in the various LR parts shops in the UK, but most of them seem to be Britparts or some form of aftermarket parts, any experience with these speedometers? can someone suggest me a good version? I don't want a "chinese" rubbish version that ends up looking worse than my beaten one....

heehee........fat boy.......i think that fix of yours was bingo.... have also figured out the auto tune - daahhh, does it make life easier one question, can i autotune on a log? haven't found a way to do it.

indeed you are right fatboy, must have been one of my brain farts..... have them from time to time.

thanks for the feedback Quagmire, 1. yep I have found the AFR gauge and trying to use this, it usually runs quite rich (12-13) and if I fiddle with the AV chart I can get it to run at around 14,7 but then it often goes well into the lean section (but only when I take power off, which means no fuel being fed which should be right then?) 2. I have subsequently found a "O2 front voltage" and this works better, seems to be speaking to my Lambda sensor. I am using the regular lambda sensor Nigel sends with his kit, has 4 wires, his instructions are if you connect two of them then it becomes a wide band sensor, so I have done this and ticked the wide band sensor. has anyone got a base MSQ file for me for a 3.5V8, I have misplaced my CD I got from Nigel and he doesn't answer emails or telephone..... and having fiddled...... and having not been clever enough to save an original copy that came off the ECU...... yes I know not the brightest thing to do, but in the heat of the moment and all..... anyone? she is running quite nicely at the moment, still struggling to set my startup idle, for some reason the Bosch Extra air valve opens and then closes again after a few seconds if I start without giving any throttle.... so at the moment I am starting with just a little throttle to get past these first 5 seconds and then the EAV seems to do its thing and the warmup cycle starts.... I am also struggling with Bowies description of finding the "base idle", if I block off the EAV pipes and set my idle with the idle screw then as soon as I let go the EAV pipes again the idle goes up to 1500+rpm, which makes sense cause the EAV is never fully closed, so maybe i have misunderstood what he meant. at the moment I have the idle bypass valve set fully closed (feels like it) and after the initial EAV silly moment it seems to control the revs quite well until the engine has warmed up. anyway..... learning as i go along...... and I thought the wiring and assembly of the megasquirt was going to be the difficult part........... go figure.

Thanks for the replies guys, yes my TD5's do this but my V8 is an '83 and it doesn't, which makes it even worse cause I am accustomed to not having to worry about the lights. The lights off in the middle of a junction in the middle of the night..... Hmmm , sounds like a fun situation..... Maybe an idea to wire a toggle switch that stays off normally but can feed the lights bypassing all the relays as an emergency lights option, but then again run the risk of flicking it on with a stray knee or strap and lighting up like a Christmas tree...... Will give it some thought

greetings landrovites. I have just finished wiring my 3.5 V8 ecu and while I had the whole dash area open I decided to put relays in for my headlights. now both my dims and brights are running through relays and my switches don't do much more than a few milliamperes work!! I simply cut the wires to the headlights just before they entered the fuse box, used these wires from the switch side now as my "relay trigger wire" (usually to pin 86 on relay), then a good strong fused relay feed (pin 30) and the relay output (pin 87) goes back into the wires that then go through the fuse box to the individual lights, so I still have separately fused headlights, which are much brighter now, and my switches aren't going to burn out. but I would now like to wire another relay in which is triggered by my ignition so that I only have lights when my ignition is on, this way I can leave my lights on as "driving lights" and won't forget them on as I have done several times in the past. are there any disadvantages in doing this?

I asked some questions earlier in the post, asking them again. 1. where do i read on the tuner studio whether I am running too lean or rich? 2. what does a high voltage on my Lambda sensor mean and how can I change this? 3. O2 back voltage gauge, mine goes into the red both ways? what do I adjust to fix this I have been reading the megaquirt manual but often it will just say "make mixture richer" or "adjust lambda" and I don't know where to correlate this from?

thanks Bowie, I had a good look at my old flapper plenum and saw the channel the bleed screw feeds air through, it is machined parallel to the throttle body bypassing the butterfly. and while I was doing that the postman arrived with my "new" EAV, which I plugged in and SUDDENLY....... I can start my V8 without a dance on the throttle, the one Nigel sent me was not working..... bit irritating really......as I would expect him to check whether it works before selling it on to someone.... so now I can finally start fine tuning an engine that starts and doesn't die on me......

ok so now I am confused, the idle bleed valve controls the air coming into the pipe which comes from the stepper motor/extra air valve? or not? or does it allow air to pass around the butterfly in another way? I haven't seen any other bleed holes that allow this????

ok thanks for your input Bowie. some questions: 1. why is it more desirable for the idle air to bleed via the bleed screw and not through the throttle butterfly? is it mainly because the butterfly is only really adjustable in "big increments" compared to the little grub screw? 2. PWM, I haven't gotten my head around it yet. can you explain it in layman terms? (I understand that it isnt the EAV but the PWM is used to "drive" the EAV, I have only been referring to the whole thing as a "PWM" cause Nigel sells it as this in his kit) 3. If I set my idle bleed screw then I need to set it for a completely cold start (i.e. a LOT more open than at warm idle) and then let the EAV "close" down the extra bleed air to manage the warm idle? is this the right thinking?

Bowie have a look at this topic, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15317&page=9 page 9 reply #180 from Bull Bar Cowboy: some extracts from his post -> "For me the inclusion of a valve was going to serve two purposes…….. 1. Provide a fast idle with a linear degradation to operating temperature. 2. It seemed good idea that if I could get it to work in closed loop mode then in some off road situations it would allow me to idle over obstacles without intervention of the throttle…….. So … to set the base idle I used the following procedure ………… disconnect he valve from the plenum and blank the plenum air inlet. Then set the base idle (using the throttle body butterfly stop) to a value that is just below the required controlled idle ……… I set mine to 800 rpm as I wanted a controlled 850rpm…… Reconnecting the valve and test driving, confirmed that the stalling issue was resolved and the idle was perfectly stable @850rpm…………." and I have to agree with his thinking, why let a little slave valve which has to wait for a signal AND then open and close to get the REVS right and all of that only causes lag and delay? rather set up the system to perform almost perfectly and let the little valve just do the fine tuning. my terminology: Throttle butterfly valve = the brass valve inside the throttle body PWM or EAV (extra air valve) = Bosch air regulator solenoid that comes with the MS kit from Nigel and is tapped into the old stepper motor port on the hotwire plenum what else is there I might have misunderstood?

Not if there is no air feeding to the bleed screw, my PWM is a tightly shut as a sharks arse. Bleed screw is completely open anyway, if I take out the PWM and connect the bleed screw port directly to the stepper motor port then the motor idles at about 1800rpm.

it all started in a little town in South Africa called Mafeking. first, Mafeking land rover won't start so I tore all the bits out and put a MS in.... now, because Mafeking PWM/EAV doesn't work I am trying to set my throttle butterfly a slight little bit open so the engine can idle higher than 400rpm.... I also read in one of the threads written by BBC (as part of Nigels original MS build thread) that he did this so that his PWM has less compensating to do each time he lets the throttle close, this hotwire throttle body closes the throttle valve a lot more than the old Flapper used to, so once it is closed the engine won't run at all if the indie bleed screw is blocked off. BBC's logic is if I can get it to idle with the throttle butterfly at operating temp (or 100rpm under at say 700rpm) then the PWM valve doesn't have to move as much and there will be less lag in idle rpm settling.

two idiot questions if someone would humour me.... 1. how do I see from tunderstudio if I am running to lean? or too rich for that matter? 2. my "rear bank O2 voltage" and Lamba gauges are often WELL into the red, Lambda reads very high voltages (over 1-1,1) and "rear bank voltage" also mostly in the red on the right side of the gauge 0,8-1,0 - what does all of this mean and how can I fix it?

aha... Bowie, finally I think I have one up on you if you look under the throttle actuator, at the plenum side, there is a tiny grub screw which pokes its head out and stops the butterfly from closing all the way.............it is there ...........I promise...........look its the little pointy one my index finger is pointing at and not the blanked off one my thumb is on which is the air bypass screw (had a long uncomfortable relationship with this screw on my Flapper) then having the luxury of having my Flapper plenum off I turned it around to find a LOOOOONG hole with a little grub screw hiding in the end of it, but I can't get my allen keys to fit or turn it...... for the mo I have done the bodge fix of tightening up my throttle cable to get the aprox right revs, but you know how cables are they never perform exactly the same way

tested my PWM valve by putting 12V on it and it doesn't move or budge or click or tick or ANYTHING, so I guess that might maybe be why I am struggling to get it idling properly...... also my idle grub screw on the plenum is so far closed the throttle butterfly all but SEALS the hole...... anybody have an idea what size the grub screw allen key is? I have tried 2mm= too small, 2,5mm= too small, 3mm= TOO BIG..... so I am stumped, unless there is an imperial in between I am missing? for SKAULDY: here are some pics of where I put my EDIS and ECU and run my loom, bear in Mind that mine is a LHD so the heater box and brakes are swopped around.. thats my EDIS on the bulkhead, just below it is where my 3 power wires go to the MS system. which are these 3, 2x fused power feeds (10A fuse working fine for now), 1 x switched power wire feeding the ECU, PWM, EDIS power and the main relay trigger (2A fuse working fine for this) here is my main loom running under the right side footwell to the right seat box and here is my ECU and relays under the right side seat box, ECU still needs to be stuck down, I pulled it out again because I thought the serial cable was causing problems (I had slightly modified it to save space) but in the end it was Megatune and not the cable