rrr47

Interesting video, why do we have batteries then?

What's an 3000F supercapacitor?

Manifold has warped with the heating, cooling, heating, cooling over many years. I have done the same, not notice during removal. Try a large bar or pole to force it back, or get longer bolts/studded bar, line up all the bolts and holes with some distance between head and manifold, then use nuts to pull the manifold down the threads while keeping the holes/bolts lined up. Slow process, but it does work. You could just file the hole bigger. Or better still, dump the cast manifolds for 4 branch tubed.

And people wonder why Greece is broke.

I'm no electrical engineer, but I think the thicker the wire, the more amps you need or lose pushing power through it. That's why good Hi-Fi speaker wire, welder's cable and good jump leads have lots of fine copper wires, each can only carry a small amount of amps, but a bunch of them combined can carry a lot with very little loss. While cheap jump leads made of thick copper wire can cope with higher amps, but they will use up power transmitting the power, and, they will also turn that wasted power into heat.

Start on the both shorter sides, i.e. the A posts, and overlap the cord. If the bottom/dash side looks hard to get to, you can push this on first. If there is a sealing strip on the outside of the rubber, this should be removed before trying to fit.

I did a deal for mine on a watch, but here is the same thing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-Jump-Leads-Durite-Anderson-Connector-Battery-Booster-/360959137440?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item540ad756a0

Good advice GW8IZR, will mount isolator somewhere near the expansion tank. Any suggestions always welcome.

I have to agree, but I did a deal for a watch I had been trying to sell for years, these leads were offered with money and so the set was what it is. The terminal leads are only half a metre, something I would of not ordered, but the jump leads are 15 foot, so no trying to get as close as possible any more as with my old jump leads. I don't have to raise the bonnet, just release the latch and access the connector. But the most important reason why, is because I had something new and wanted to fit them.

I have managed in-between the rain to fit the Anderson connector to the Rangie today. I have taken the suggestions to mount it on the slam panel, and in such a way that the bonnet needs only to be popped, not fully open. (Had a couple of bad experiences when jump starting someone in windy weather and bonnets fully up). Plus the battery terminal wires dictated where the said connector could be. Just need a cover now to keep the rain and dirt out.

It's good to know they are good by their word. I think as well a lot of the tools and such are lost leaders. They know when the men see the tidy tools in the leaflet, they'll be dragging the wife to Lidl/Aldi for the weekly food shop just to look/get a new tool or something.

The old one is still going but I should imagine it will snap around the head, but I think you can replace the fibreglass for a wooden handle. The axe works very well at splitting, I'm very happy with it considering the price.

I like the bit in the write up "It Still has its outstanding Manufacturers Warranty".

Late last year I purchased a Lidl splitting axe, £12.99 was it's price as I remember. My philosophy is either to buy the best, or the cheapest. Most products in-between I find have the characteristics of the lowest price item except a far higher price, with no gain towards the best. And so on finding the Lidl axe with a horrid fibreglass handle but a price far cheaper than any other axe construct the same, I purchased one. Everyone said "that won't last 5 minutes", "that handle will snap the first time you use it", e.t.c. Well, after 4-5 months of heavy splitting, including Elm and Oak, the head of the said axe has started to drift off. Only 1 or 2mm, but it is enough to see that the fibreglass is not complete under the steel head. This may just be an air bubble trapped during the injection process, or the design to fit handle to head. I contacted Lidl late January who directed myself to the manufacturer in Germany, both of whom promised either a replacement or a full refund. And today the replacement arrived, straight to my door all the way from the manufacturer in Europe.

Depends on cost of Range Rovers, condition, shipping cost for a container, collection from port and then storage in the UK. Do you know how much a container from Australia to UK costs? You can not only fill the cars up with parts, but the container whence the said cars are ingressed.

Wise words.

Good point.

Whom is the dealer?

Cool, or as they say in Barry, tidy.

If the brushes are knackered, you can easily make some. Find somewhere that repairs drills/grinders, or anything with electric motors, take along the old brushes, try and match a similar set. If the carbon is too big, you can just file it down to the right sizes.

Range Rover Classic in Plymouth Blue, with hints of mud, rust, dents, scratches, gaffa tape and a very leaky rear diff. But I live in Rhoose.

You will need to clean out the heater and air conditioning, any air vents and the like. Legionnaires disease may develop in these areas and can be quiet nasty when you start using the car again. My fathers friend got caught in a flood in a 3 month old Mercedes, the insurance company had the car crushed to protect themselves if the car got put back on the road. I saw the car and damage was minimal, just carpets really, but they would not take the chance.

If your fully comp can you not claim on your insurance?

Just did a deal for some new jump leads with an Anderson connector. Their brilliant. Half a metre of cable, connector, then 15 foot of jump leads!!! Thought my 31 year old jump leads at 8 foot were long, with these I won't have to worry about parking the Rangie as close as possible for a jump. Looking to ask fellow members for ideas on how to mount them. Should I use the rust hole in the bonnet for access? Is it wise to have the connector visible? Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated.

An interesting charity, in an interesting place, Merthyr Tydfil.