rrr47

I agree with everyone, I have a Range Rover classic with speed sensor speedo, which has never worked, I changed the sensor which is just a box that a short speedo cable goes into. The gearbox end is just the same as the good old speedo cables. My speedo still does'nt work, an ECU problem I think.

The rust is caused by the exhaust heating the rear body cross member producing condensation in that area, look at most unwelded Range Rovers and you will see this is the first place to rust from the inside out. I have seen some pretty mint looking Rangies but they have the same area rusted. When you buy the replacement part, the ends are open unlike the original, this should help keep the area ventilated. It's a rear wing off job though.

Does the engine have an oil cooler? Does it run through the radiator? Does the power steering have a oil cooler in the rad as well?

This is our old Discovery which we sold in 2010.

Put all the dash and centre console back in today, the plastic dash around the heater controls and stereo is very flimsy, and has gotten broken over the years. I always wondered how the dash parts either side of the stereo were screwed together, now I know, the plastic pins are melted to the rest of the dash, that's why I could never remove them. The centre console has always been broken due to a handbrake that has been pulled up too high, but now it is even worse, does anyone have any ideas on a fix, or a spare for sale?

I managed to get the heater out today without removing the dash top. I had the air-con out, which left a huge gap, undoing the screws that hold the dash top above it aloud me to pull the heater out while lifting the dash top on the passenger side. Very difficult job to separate the heater and then put back together with the new matrix, had to check all the flaps lined up and then rebuild the heater controls. Reconnecting the heater hoses was a pain as they had been disconnected for 4 years and moulded themselves into the wrong shape. Also, I had to put them back with the 'T' pieces for the LPG. None of the 6 pipes wanted to fit together or fit around the engine. But got it to a stage where I could run the engine and check all the hoses for leaks, and, that the heater was working, so touch wood, everything is A O K.

Here are the pics.

I have started the long job of changing the heater matrix on my SE. I could not believe the weight of the fans and other air con bits under the dash, I will be removing all the air con bits so if any one is interested in any parts or all of it, I am open to offers. I will post some pics a bit later.

WOW! What on Earth is in those tanks?

If you do use tyres, wear a mask when cutting the tyres up, the ones I used were the biggest low profiles I could find and they have some nasty stuff inside that creates a horrible dust when cut up. Also, there are some self-drilling wood screws on the market with very pointy tips, they also come with their own screwdriver bit as their a funny size or fit. They go through the tyres a lot easier than other self-tappers.

What kind of gearbox will you be looking to get? How much power/torque can the standard units take?

Glad to everything A O K, hope it stays that way. Did you find out why Tesco was digging up the forecourt?

I stopped next to a brand new Range Rover the other day, mine has had the air springs swapped for "sports springs", (sic), which are a little lower than norm, but the new R/R was still a good 5 inches higher, maybe 6. Much bigger than the Classic, but when you see the new one without any reference around it, they look a lot smaller. While the Classic looks bigger than it actually is.

Don't mind about the trailer mud flaps, it is very funny the amount of people who take a double look at them, a couple have even pointed out, "I think you have a puncture or problem with your trailer tyres". Cheap solution and unbreakable.

My sister lives in Canada and they use them out there, even if the car is in a garage. You would see many cars and pick-ups with a 110v plug sticking out of the bonnet for the heater. You may not need a timer if you use an extension lead and just switch it on about halve an hour before you go out to the car. The electric pre-heaters are quiet small so location is not a problem on a Range Rover.

You don't say which model your fitting, I assume it's their pre-heater. Make sure the outlet from the heater is near the thermostat.

Just a thought, but is it worth checking the engine oil as well for the smell? The substance may have passed the piston rings and contaminated the oil.

Yes is the answer.

Sounds a very bad situation. Could the cup melting indicate petrol mixed in with diesel? We had a huge problem years ago with a company called "Action" selling very cheap petrol which was supposed to be the dregs from tankers, don't know if they meant ship tankers or lorry. But the petrol had sea water in it and a lot of people had problems with their fuel filters filling up with water and stopping the engines. My Dad's Volvo had this problem and the local dealer replaced everything to do with the fuel system, though I think this was so they could claim the work back from Volvo as the car was less than 3 months old.

The extra width helps when driving on wet grass and through mud. On my old Discovery I ran 33/12.50 x 15" and when we went off-roading, my mates with their thinner tyres would chew up the field and grass, and get stuck in the mud. My Disco spread it's weight over a larger foot print and did less damage to grass and the like, and would float over mud with ease. Thin tyres are good in other conditions though such as snow as you want more weight on the contact area, or a smaller foot print. I'm not sure what tyre size you would use on sand, I have seen both thin and enormous????

Thanks for the reply and advice, I will try your method. I am not looking forward to do the job as I have done this a few times on various cars and, with exception of two, it was whole dash out job. On a Cortina and Manta, (the other two), the same job is a few crosshead screws and two Jubilee clips under the bonnet, with the heater fans just as easy.

I have, (after 4 years without a heater), ordered a new heater matrix. Has any other members change the said part? I am hoping I don't have to remove all of the dash.

Very nice, I wanted a Green Range Rover when we were looking to buy one, but I found ours with loads of welding just completed and LPG for £1000.00. The colour the missus really likes is "Dark Wimbledon Green", it was used on the P38 2000 Anniversary model. That on a Classic with a gold pin stripe.

Thanks JeffR, but I'm in South Wales so a bit far. Do you know the width and off set by any chance, just out of interest.

For better grip on road and when your off road the weight of the car is better distributed which will help in mud and causes less damage to grass or field and the like. The tyre's extra side wall height will reduce chance of bumping a wheel, plus the larger tyres can have their pressures dropped down for certain off road conditions.