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Happy Days!

300tdi..... anybody?

Hi, Does anyone know, off the top of their head, what type of fitting/thread is used on the oil cooler hose/pipe assemblies - part number PBP101130. I think each end may be different, with the oil cooler rigid pipe end being 1/2" BSP tapered, and 1/2" BSPP at the Filter Head end. Can someone confirm or put me straight on this? I was looking at getting a couple of flexible hoses made up instead of the rigid ones. cheers LRmud

How about some 12v solenoid actuators and some switches on the dash?

Sometimes - usually with the right revs - it slipped into gear perfectly. Other times, it only went in with much hashing and swearing I was thinking either the gearbox was duff or I'd built the clutch wrong. Once I got the 10mm spanner and a 002 thou feeler gauge onto the bias spring setting, it was so much better and very slick - transformed. I still don't really understand how an adjustment of a gearstick thingamybob affects the gearbox but it does - very much so. Good luck with it, whatever it turns out to be. Hopefully a quick fix and back to enjoying the Landy. Keep us all posted on developments and the eventual cure.

I recently replaced my gearbox with a new one (along with a new clutch, all at great expense) and had problems engaging 3rd and 4th without a fight. I was beginning to get very depressed about it but then read about the bias spring adjustment under the gear stick. Bl00dy 'ell, it worked a treat after that!

Just resurrecting this old thread since I have been searching for some info on my dicky 3rd gear. Brand new R380 Gearbox so was worried it was faulty! Did the adjustments as per above, now works beautifully! Many thanks to all the above for the info.

In answer to my questions, I guess that'll be a "no" then. Many thanks LRmud

Yes, Turners appear to be THE people to go to, but no mention on their website of anything other than the standard camshaft.

Hi, Wondering if anyone here has ever fitted a performance camshaft to their 300tdi? I may rebuild the engine next year and like any old engine, I would expect the cam lobes to be a bit worn down. I have seen the standard ERR3547 camshaft for sale but never a performance version, i.e. more torque. Is there one out there, anyone fitted one, and did it make any difference? cheers LRmud

Many thanks for all the answers. Looks like the mounts will be OK to re-use for the R380 then. The existing LT77 Crossmember will be modified to fit / replaced if there is a clash with the new gearbox. cheers LRmud

And Ashcrofts kindly supplied an oil flinger plate as well to keep it all nicely lubricated. Lovely people!

Quick call to Ashcroft's will be definitive. I recently got a new Input Gear from them but couldn't get the cross-drilled variety due to age of my Transfer Box.

Mike, Thanks for your reply although I'm not sure I understand what mounts you refer to. From what you are saying, it implies you have R380 mounts which you have used on the LT77 gearbox. I currently have two mounts on the LT230 to chassis but none on the LT77 Gearbox at all. What I am trying to establish is if I actually need any gearbox mounts or if the LT230 mounts are sufficient.

Hi, I have a 1989 90 which has been well messed with in its past. I'm planning to replace the old, broken LT77 with an R380 Gearbox. The (non-original) 300tdi engine will be moved forwards (around 135mm) for this to happen, two new engine mounts have been purchased ready for this work. The (original) LT77 Gearbox has no mountings securing it to the chassis. The only mountings I can see are to the (original) LT230 Transfer Box to the rear. I believe I will probably need to replace the existing round tubular Gearbox Crossmember due to a clash with the R380 - can someone confirm this? Also, I have seen that the "R380 Crossmember" incorporates mounting brackets for the gearbox. Do I need to secure the R380 Gearbox to the Crossmember or is it sufficient to use the existing setup where support is obtained via the LT230 mounts? Depending on the answer, I will either need R380 mounts or will modify the existing Crossmember to clear the R380. Many thanks in advance LRmud

OK, I guess since I mentioned a "custom-made dash" in a previous post... here it is.... - go easy on me, I'm a newbie!!!! Hazard Switch is at the top. The centre section of the dash is easily removable by undoing a couple of securing nuts underneath. Before anyone mentions it, I have no intention of opening the vent flaps at the front - ever. That's one bad design unless you live in Africa or something! cheers LRmud

PaulMc, Thanks for that. I posted last night but being a newbie the post didn't get "approved" until today. Dashboard now back together today and all of it worked first time! cheers LRmud

Retroanaconda, You are indeed correct. On further trawling of Freelander drawings, I've found the RO and Black wires in the interior illumination section 46 Page 102. It's the feed and earth for the Hazard Switch Illumination lamp. many thanks for your hint. LRmud

Western, The drawings you posted are same as the ones I am using, except I have the 2003MY version - so that's a relief. On the C0096 Connector page you posted, it mentions Pins 4 & 5 being RO and B respectively. The Switch I got off fleabay came with a connector which has all 9 wires hanging out of the back of it, just as per the drawing. Like you say, I should probably (safely) assume the black will be an earth and ignore the red/orange (C0096 - Pin 4) unless it doesn't work otherwise. Maybe just an anomaly between connector drawing and circuit diagram....? Thanks for your help. LRmud

Hi, OK, bit of a problem.... I'm changing the 1989 Defender Hazard Warning Switch for a Freelander one of 2003 vintage. It's for mounting in a custom-made dash. Now, I've sussed out all of the wires from Defender to Freelander, based on Circuit Diagrams from t'internet. Problem is with the Freelander C0096 Hazard Switch Connector, pins 4 & 5 (red/orange and black respectively) are not mentioned on any drawing I can see. Is this a supply and return (earth) for the switch itself? If not, do I just ignore them on the Defender? Hope you can help with this Thanks in advance. LRmud

Winter tyres are the best choice for any temperature below 6 degC or so. Softer compound, sipes, etc, etc. If you're putting them on your Landy, get a set of 4, not just 2. It may be expensive but they last for years and you will not be wearing out your "summer" tyres from November to March. I just got a set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT2 235/85/16 and they are perfect. Not too wide either. Good luck LRmud

Dear Ruuman, Thanks for your initial posting on the fan upgrade 4 years ago!!!! My original fan was found to be seized up and the matrix had a smattering of mud in it as well. I've just done exactly as you described, replaced the fan, cleaned out the matrix and it now works a treat. I cannot believe the air coming through the vents now. Demist actually works - perfectly . The funny thing is the air going in through the wing duct makes a bit of noise! So chuffed with the mod. cheers LRmud

Hello everyone, I've now taken the plunge and bought my first ever Landy. It's a 90 from 1989 with a 300tdi engine and plenty of off-road bits and seems to be in very good nick. Looking forwards to having some fun off-road and very much enjoying reading all the techy stuff in this Forum. Cheers LRmud