Rich_P

How does that work? Surely dampening out vibration can't make that much of a difference?

With those prices you can buy a complete vehicle and rob the diffs from it.

Depends on the engine I guess! If it's carb, that isn't difficult. Just remove the entire petrol side and the carb will act as the fuel/air valve, nothing more. I think that the biggest drawback with LPG is getting fuel. You'll have to plan your fuel stops before departing rather than just fill up at whatever fuel station appears first should you run low. The other day when I drove from the top end of Derbyshire down to Leicestershire, I can't say I noticed many fuel stations offering LPG.

Looks like the guy there does refurbs of Fairey overdrives? He's sold a few according to his feedback too.

http://www.leafersatpit.org.uk/

Okay, many thanks for the replies guys.

Important question, does it cost to use the GPS function on a mobile phone?

Fantastic, many thanks! I used to work at P4U but I've been out of it for too long to be in the know anymore. Cheers.

I forgot to mention, it has to be cheap. I can't afford to spend £100 on a phone. A third of that is more reasonable, even if it is an old model.

As I come to the end of my mobile phone contract this month, I'll be switching to Pre-Pay (aka, Pay as you Go). My current phone (that is now nearing the end of its life after the abuse its got over the last 18 months) is a Nokia 6300. What I'm wondering is if there are any mobile phones available that offer basic GPS? I'm just thinking that having coordinates available could be handy sometimes when out and about when relying on maps.

Fitting the axle to the spring can be a bit fiddly. Only do one side at a time, using the other to stop the axle rolling away on its own. You may need to use ratchet straps to pull the axle and chassis close enough together to fit the dampers again afterwards. It's a job I shall be doing eventually, as the Britpart rears on mine are starting to sag more now.

I hope I can answer some of your questions. Canvas tops are drier than the standard hard top. They shouldn't leak, if they do they either need re-water proofing or they're knackered (e.g. rotten with big gaping holes). A hard top can be handy and any leaks or condensation with a hard top can usually be sorted out. Whether you go for a petrol or diesel depends on your motoring budget and how much noise you're willing to accept. The petrol engine isn't light on fuel but very reliable and quiet compared to the diesel. The diesel is good on fuel consumption (expect 30mpg with one in good health, possibly more if it's lightly laden) but can be noisy. It also has a few less horsepower and torque available. Unless it's a Stage 1 S3 then the V8 will have been put in by a previous owner. Be aware that it requires things like custom exhaust, modified passenger footwell to clear manifold, relocated oil filter, engine mount adapters and bellhousing adapter to name a number of non-standard items. I like them though. You'd need to decide if one is what you want. An overdrive is pretty much a must for a Series that doesn't stay within its local area. Worn overdrives will whine badly, good ones should be nearly silent. (As you might guess, most are worn) As for where they rot, they rot in the same places as a Defender. Bulkhead top section, corners, footwells and pillars. The chassis rots at the rear crossmember first, followed by outriggers and front dumbirons. Would you get a good usable example for a grand? I don't know. I think you would stand a better chance if you added five hundred to that figure. The fact that the youngest Series is now about 26 years old means they're all rapidly descending into real classic status.

I am not sure if this is me, but it looks like more cars have poorly aligned headlights these days than they used to, too? I know on my father's C5 the headlights appear to aimed waaay higher than any other car on the road, but they're at the correct level and pass MOTs?

The only problem with even brighter lights is that if you're the traffic coming the other way, you can get blinded by them.

Series motors did have it available, particularly in SW format.

If the lift pump won't draw fuel, you need to check that the pipework to the tank is okay. You may have a big air leak, so the pump will be drawing air rather than fuel.

Sounds like it's missing. Is it like this when fully warmed up? Is it worse when under load? Or does it stay the same?

I'm 20, 21 in a few months time (my policy expires shortly after that). I like you suggestions Aragorn, but insurance is still madness for me as I've been unable to build up any NCB. A lot of companies didn't want to know about the 88 due to its age (many still don't, with my age being so young for such an old car and having an unhealthy postcode for insurance). Insurance rates haven't really fallen over the three and a bit years I've held my licence either - I can only guess that's because rates have been going up with all the economic issues etc. I appreciate the comments made by people in this topic, and I'll certainly take note of what's been said.

Have you ever tried to cut 2-3mm steel plate with tin snips? I have to use the grinder and it's just a whole lot of hassle I don't like. Not after having had to do what I have on the 88 before.

Thanks for the reply. It's only one I can run, if anything. Insurance is a killer on even a Punto 1.2 (about twice what I'm paying on the 88). Thing is with 90s (and 110s), I noticed that most of them are really suffering with their chassis now. I don't want to go through the trouble of changing a chassis again let alone be impossible to afford. A mild steel structure (like cars and Disco/RR bodies) is easier to sort out than a chassis I think... Besides, don't 90s and 110s that have a TDi still fetch between 3 and 5 grand even if they are barely road legal?

I'm getting bored with my 88 - in fact I'm fed up of the harshness of it all and being deafened. I want something else. So, I've changed the chassis and converted it to diesel (very healthy petrol engine stored in garage). It's had all sorts of general maintenance work done on it, seals and bearings etc. I'm guessing it could go around the 2k mark as it is, maybe some more if I did some tidying up. What cars do people reckon could be run instead of the late diesel 2A 88, working on the similar/same cost basis? I don't want some little horrible cars like the Metro being suggested here, as there's no chance of me ever using one of those or similar. Oh and to complicate matters, I'm a student so moneys is tight. If it helps, I like Range Rovers and Discoveries for their part car and part "Land Rover" thing (88 was useful during winter for getting things about here in Pennines). But insurance companies don't want to know at my age. I suppose the 88 is good being insured for £500 or so, so that too has to be competed with. Thoughts?

I thought that the home mechanic cannot rebuild turbochargers because of how they are balanced?

And when you drive with 4WD engaged, it's exactly the same as if diff lock is engaged on the later perm 4WD vehicles.

Aren't these matters normally covered in the official workshop manuals?