Rich_P

So the tank, pipes to the vap and the vap itself can remain the same? That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks.

I understand the obvious differences between single point and multi point LPG systems, and I am aware that there are those which make use of exhaust sensors I think and those which do not? Anyway, the important question is, can a single point system be upgraded to multi point without having to replace the vaporiser and tank(s) etc? Is the difference only after the vaporiser?

Going by that table, it looks like the past two or three years has seen half the Classics go to the scrappie...

Oh, and in addition to the above, I take it that the tools to access the electronics are no longer bank breaking for the home mechanic?

Thanks for the replies. Is the 4.6 on gas worth consideration or would it be a bad idea without big reserves in case something with the engine goes wrong proper?

Hi. I am looking at my options for a car at the moment. I have my Series, but it needs some TLC soon and I need a car for work purposes and for general running about including possibly trips to France and wherever else I may fancy. One of the options I am considering is a 300TDi Discovery, but should I also consider a Range Rover P38? I understand that they are put together far better than a Discovery, and that the diesel is supposed to be reasonably economic? Or is it just a bad idea to even consider the P38? Cheers,

Could it be a slipping belt?

I'd remove the tub to do the floor bracing. They're supposed to sit on rubber pads on the chassis, so that when you load up the tub the load is applied directly to the chassis rather than on the ends of the tub where it bolts up.

That's not badly bent at all! In the Series 3 optional parts catalogue, there's a whole section devoted to armour plating for the belly of a Land Rover. Must really cause some grief off-road.

If it's in a bad way then it'll need lots of work. If it's sorted, it'll be pretty reliable. Same as with anything really.

Not if you want to reduce the amount of dust and dirt that the air filter has to filter out, well for those in dustry conditions anyway. But what I don't get is when a raised air intake is used for that purpose, why are so many plastic ones fixed facing forwards?! Or is it just because of all the "It's Gripped, It's Sorted, Let's Off-Road" sort of people buying them without any real understanding? At least with the Mantec ones you can rotate the intake to face backwards...

What about an early Range Rover? Or were their list prices still too high for your liking?

25 sounds a bit better, given it's in a 109 and doing low speed work. The worst I have got out of my 2.25d is 27mpg, and that was a combination of laning and normal driving. I've achieved 35mpg with it on a steady motorway run too, but it is in the far lighter 88 in my case. As far as I know, the given figures are around the 30mpg for normal working conditions? I very nearly did have a 2.5 NA go in mine instead of the 2.25 too, it just so happened that parts were on the shelf for the 2.25d installation and the engine in particular had a better history than the 2.5 NA that I had the choice of.

Just bear in mind the 2.25d is the cheapest to fit out of all the engine options (if you can find a good one!) - you can buy all the parts off the shelf for little £££. You'll need a custom exhaust of some description for any other engine really, even if it is just an increase in bore size. That's a bit harsh on the 2.25d. I don't know what your experience was, but either that engine was shagged or its fuel was going missing somehow.

That's what is happening as more Series motors become show-going toys I think. Like when I was looking for an engine for my 88, I found that the 2.25 diesels were fetching near on 100 quid for one with an unknown history and if you were super lucky you'd see a video of it running. They aren't that bad when in good order!

The differences in the hand brake mounting can be seen on Richard's Chassis 2a Page. I think people normally make up a bracket to fit the later type to the old mounting.

I think if you want a Series 2, you buy a Series 2. If you want a Series 3, you buy a Series 3. Genuine tax exempt Series 3 examples do exist, if in limited numbers. What bugs me is the argument about all and any Series being the same - by that logic you could claim a 1983 Series 3 CSW 88 is a 1948 Series 1 80-inch just to get the tax exemption. A silly and unlikely example but I hope it proves my point. And finally, the talk earlier about hand brakes and all that, the curved hand brake assembly fits between the S3 and 2A no problem. Issues arise if someone attempts to fit a curved hand brake assembly to the earlier straight lever hand brake setup, which were phased out sometime in the mid 60s.

Or a 2.25 Diesel if you want economy.

The 2.25 petrol with o/d should manage 70mph if you're prepared to get it there. The fact that it is in a 90 can make all the difference! They were fitted to 90s, if not at the time yours was built. They were never fitted to a Series from factory, and that can make a big difference.

Crossplies are fine on the road if you are someone who can drive to the conditions and what traction you have available. They're not as deadly as many people make out by any means.

You need to look at the prices France is paying then...

Thanks people. FF, I'm running Michelin XCLs at the moment which came from VASS. Problem is one of my tyres were destroyed recently so I needed another, and I wasn't keen about the £50 or so VASS charges for delivery if I was just getting a couple of tyres. I can't go and collect the tyres either as that's even more expensive. I'll sort sonething out, and perhaps this is an ideal excuse to pass on the remaining good XCLs and try out another tyre. Thanks again!

Since having a mild incident I'm looking to get another tyre, and one has come to my attention which is the same pattern but different brand. Can a tyre that has the same pattern on two brands still be the same tyre but merely badged different? To be more accurate, is the Olympic tyre with the Michelin XCL tread pattern the same as the Michelin XCL but otherwise just stamped with Olympic instead of Michelin?

It's difficult to say without seeing the Land Rover. But from your vague description, the asking price seems a little on the steep side if it's been bashed about. I'd like to make you aware that the 200TDi will possibly make it uninsurable if you are a young driver. When I enquired about the fitting of a TDi, insurance companies just laughed and turned me away or came out with a stupidly high quotation. I think you would be best to set out with a stock motor. That way you will have no insurance problems and can adapt it as you please as time goes by. It would also give the greatest chances of a reliable vehicle too.

After raising the issue on the S2C about the new legislation, it turns out that remoulds are exempt from it. So I guess if people want aggressive patterns we just use remould tyres.