ianmayco68

cheers Scotts90 thats helped alot looks like my bank holiday's sorted in the shed out of the rain cheers Ian

yes sorry didn't put in what I was replacing but also got to replace the front tub supporting member, the rear quarter panels ,rear corners , rear body mounting member that bolts to the chassis and the floor and the supporting top hat struts underneath and also the c posts. Was trying to get my head round the best order in which to do things , whether it would be best to do the body bits first then the floor or vice versa cheers Ian

Hi all, rear axle back on disc brake conversion finished so thought I'd turn my attensions to the body work rear tub first. Quite a few of the bits need replacing after I'd got it upside down on a table so have ordered a floor kit from those wonderful people at YRM, but before i start removing rivits and such does anyone know of a tec article anywhere or can anyone who has done this offer any advise on the best way to go about it as the last thing I want is a pile of bits on the floor. cheers Ian

No Scotts90 you're wright that oil seal shouldn't be there, been a numpty haven't I. Just looked at the tec article and I've done it wrong, I didn't look at the pictures properly, was going off the old hub off the drum brakes with the 2 seals instead of following the article. That spacer is wrong found the one I should have used and ordered some. Sorry all this is my first project so I suppose I'll make more mistakes along the way and make myself look a numpty again haha cheers Ian

Hi sorry pics not to good, the bearings are seated into the races ok I checked that when the nut wouldn't go on and hub moves freely and is in line with the caliper, the nut is tightened up onto this spacer it came out of the drum braked hub as they are the same stub axles I presumed that I needed to fit them back in but I now think that may be the problem. Should I have fitted the spacer out of the drum braked hub or should I have fitted a different one like FTC5421 ? cheers Ian

sorry all forgot to list the parts used there as follows hubs frc 6139 discs allmakes ftc 3846 bearings stc4382g oil seals ftc 4785g and frc 8222g cheers Ian

Hi all , after many months dismantling my project chassis welded and painted I planed this weekend to do the Diesel Jim brake conversion on my rear axle, but when I've come to put the hubs on I've found that when the 1st lock nut is fitted and then the tab washer there isn't a lot of thread left to put the 2nd lock nut on is this normal or have I done something wrong ? I've put some pictures below if this helps, any advice would be much appreciated cheers Ian

If you search in the technical archive section there's a post in there by white90 gearbox-clutch-rear crank seal on a defender, this might help you its got pictures and a guide

Cheers all , that's another job to the list when I've finished welding and painting the chassis. Did those of you that have followed this route buy the brake pipes or make them yourselves ? And whats the feeling on the best discs and pads to fit mintex , paddocks own branded ones cheers Ian

Hi all, while I'm rebuild my 200tdi 110 csw I've decided to convert the rear drum brakes to discs. I've read and decided to go down the diesel Jim conversion route, I've read some of the other threads on here but have become a bit confused with people discussing various combinations of parts. I know the parts I need off the tech article for the brackets , callipers ,brake pipes but I'm not sure of the other bits is the part number for the hubs FRC 6139 and are the disc guard part numbers FTC4839 and FTC4838 ? And are here any other bits I will need ? any help would be much appreciated cheers Ian

Hi all, are these adjustable a frame ball joints any good ? or should you stick to the original speck ones . And is there a specific make which is better than the rest ? cheers Ian

Cheers all, had a good look at it this morning and its just each end that's shot. Have done another search now you've told me what its called and I found a post on here were someone has repaired It so going down that route now I know its not an available part cheers for the help Ian

Hi all, took the rear body off my110csw I'm rebuilding today and the centre cross member has gone and the chassis underneath needs patching. Its the main one that the rear wish bone attaches to, I've done a search on the web of all the usual Land Rover places but can't find one then did a web search and none came back does anyone know the proper name for it and were I could order one from ? I've put some pics below Cheers Ian

Cheers for the info. Ian

Hi all, I have purchased a R380 stumpy from Ashcroft trans to replace my LT77 gearbox. I have read the threads on here about fitting them but have become a bit confused, do I need to replace the LT77 gearbox tunnel and seat box for one off a r380 gear box or can I use the originals with small modifications ? And also do I need to change the gearbox mountings and the gear box cross member from LT77 parts to R380 ones or can you use the LT77 parts ? Cheers Ian

Cheers Maverik, will have a look to see if I can find them. the ones I've brought arrived today (pic below) off ebay and they appear to be the same size as the outer part of the bulkhead as they are pressed out and have the hole for the wiring in, so am wondering if you cut thhole thing out and replace it with this cheers Ian

Hi ,I've attached a photo below its the part of the door pillar that's behind the top door mounting holes . cheers Ian

Hi, I am replacing the door pillars on my bulkhead and the feet at the bottom, I've fitted a complete new footwell but can anyone tell me or suggest a thread or tec article telling you the best way to get the inserted piece at the top out of the bulkhead without doing to much damage . cheers Ian

Hi, I want to change the rear glazed panels on my project 110 csw to the unglazed ones like on a utility. Does anyone know if the 90 van sides are the same size as the rear panels on a 110 csw ? Or if they are different is it possible to cut 110 van sides down to correct length ? cheers Ian

Cheers for the help will have a look to see if I can turn the body round cheers Ian

Hi, I've just started my first Land Rover project a Defender 200 tdi 110 csw, having rebuilt the engine I decided that a new 100 amp alternator was a good upgrade as I plan on fitting extra electrical goodies,and having read that people on here had done this already by fitting one off a Discovery . I bought a discovery alternator but the mounting hole for the tensioning adjuster is on the other side, and I wondered if those who have fitted a discovery one already could tell me the best way or place to fit the tensioner ? or have a bought the wrong model (YLE10113) cheers Ian