roybatty666

I went to Slindon in my p38 on the Friday to pick up doors for my defender and had to do part of the beginner route 2 to meet up with JST and even on road tyres she coped very well (and was soooo comfy compared to my defender). If you stick to the main routes you will be fine at Slindon, you are more likely to get tree damage green laning. Even venturing into the back paths in my 90 I only took a few knocks I did think of sticking my mud tyres on it my p38 and giving her a good raging off-road but she is still in too much of a good condition, also the traction control is sooooooooooo irritating, sucking power away and beep beep beeping at you every 3 seconds. lol at the pikey comments, there were some mad suzuki owners and one reaaally battered burgundy RR classic with flapping bonnet and boot Here is a pick of beginner route 2 with my mate in his standard (bar BFG ATs) getting pulled out of a rutted bit, so a stock p38 may have issues depending on tyres

I got the LP8500 and bumper package and have been very impressed. First Four were fantastic, I got the stainless steel recovery points and some shackles and one of the shackles was poorly cast on the pin so didn't fit the ecovery point, First four sent out 2 new shackles straight away and I got to keep the slightly oversize ones for ropes etc. As for ARB I had one on my Disco and it was pretty rocking but a bit of overkill really

He wants a private massage

lol nice I have numerous noises all clambering for my attention making it tough to work out what is what. I think I have gearbox input shaft bearing gone as in neutral with the clutch in I get a rough grinding noise but with it out it is silent, on top of that under a bit of power doing 30+ mph it sounds like a washer dancing around a spinning shaft if I back off and re-apply the power it goes away. Oh and the grumbly noise that I think is the ns front wheel bearing and the clonks from the diff backlash and the clonk from the play in the rear t-box gear / gearbox shaft interface. other than that sweet as a nut Like you I expect a dramatic "bringing to my attention" moment

Another vote for the First Four winch bumper. Came in handy at at slindon at the weekend when I discovered why no one was going through this (still I almost got through it and got further than most ) deceptively gloopy under the water (thats my excuse and I'm sticking to it) and as ever THIUWP

It was a TD but converted to 200tdi I think it could quite well be LRC354 Is rollering a better option then? I would have thought the finish would be far from smooth?

Hi all after fetching some fantastic condition from JST yesterday (thanks again James) I am a bit stumped as to the white to paint them as there is no paint code stamped on my 1990 Defender, I think it may be Davas white as it is pretty off white compared to my chums 97 Disco which he says is Alpine white. As there were only 2 whites used in 1990 (according to the colour chart posted on here) Any ideas on the correct colour would be gratefully received. I am planning on rattle canning it (properly rubbing down between layers etc) as green laning makes a mess of the paintwork anyway so it doesn't need to be perfect. What is the opinion of Halfrauds paint quality and colour match? Alternatively where is a good place to get some. finally how many cans to do 2 doors inside and out? Thanks as ever

Glad you got it sorted, With regards to the bolts I would have maybe spot welded a bit of material to the side of the bolt head to stop it spinning

Indeed the other factor for going with Paddocks is that they could get some full stop Most places were grumbling about getting hold of rubber in general at the moment but the Insa's seem very popular due to price so are even tougher to find

As tyre and wheel combo I found paddocks to be one of the cheapest, a set of 4 31/10.5/r15 INSA Turbo Saharas on 8x15" 8 spokes for £390 all in

Bushes are meant to be tight, if a hand can push one in, a 2 ton Landy is going to flop about in it. I bought a 10 ton hydraulic bench press off the bay of E for £130 so I can fit OEM ones (polys' are iffy on a landy or so I have read). Makes life so much easier Right tool for the job and all that

get a big breaker bar on it and a second person to pull/push the socket to keep it square on the nut Also turn the wheel to full lock so you can get good access to the bolt and a straight pull on the breaker bar. Some bolts are pigs, I sheared the end off my breaker bar the other day on a wheel bolt, I had the whole Land Rover bouncing on the tranny break to undo the blighter (on breaker bar number 2), using the momentum of the car rolling forwards against me pulling on the bar.

What bolt steering box is it?

Good point, I will start drowning the blighters now

Not only do a work for your forum name but I had the exact same thing hapen to me. Someone over tightened one of my nuts (oo er) and stripped the nut so it just span and chewed up the bolt. I ground and then split my nut off. The rear output flange comes off easy and be ready to catch the oil that comes out (I wasn't). With it off just whip off the sprung circlip pop in new bolts and pop the slip back on. I had to use an impact driver on the brake drum screws to get the brake drum off the flange just to complicate thins for me. Finding the transfer output flange bolts was tough as the code has changeds a million times but the main dealer can find it, they are 3/8th x 1.5" UNC bolts Was an easy job and got me to change transfer box oil at the same time

Would be nice to fit something that doesn't result in me getting covered in grease Although I feel slightly tingly when I think of a set of true tracs, bye bye back lash and hello traction

lol indeed, I have a list of things as long as my arm that are far more important, however it is a bit more gadgety than the greasy and rusty bits that need work so it appeals to the inner geek

Tell me about it, a quick prop change turned into having to remove the the transfer output flange and transmission brake after having to grind off stripped prop bolts I am geting some new(ish) doors this week so will be taking my hinges off and they are reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally rusted up. The lower passanger one only opens 30 degrees then the door just hinges on the flex of the alloy door skin (I think it once had a steel frame in it)

Seems like it And I have a perfect little dial blank in my dashboard crying out for one

for a VDO one? Where prey tell did one purchase said item?

WANT! Who where what how much etc!!!!!!! edit: ohhh not cheep then £85.79!

Spoke top Martin at NPS who was very helpful and after sending some pics agreed that it was not at all normal, it looks like someone has forced in some coper washers or something to use non standard 45degree bosses or something. The ports aren't refurbished so it was not spotted before being sent to me. instead of the 10 and 8mm bores the holes were reduced to 6mm I have another box winging it's way to me now and will return the other one with my old one to get my deposit back Pump to Steering box Reservoir to steering box

Could you not have hammered a small screw driver or a nail between the screw head and the hinge to stop it spining to drill it?

Steering boxes are the bane of my life

The threads are actually the same, it is the hole shape at the bottom of the thread that is different. Initially I thought I had a metric > imperial thread issue so contacted Pipetek, since then I found both box and pipe are the same thread and have doubts that the refurb boxes union is drilled correctly, unless there really are two differnet type of joint (not thread type). I am slightly miffed as I was meant to be greenlaning this weekend so have been stomping about the flat in a bad mood all weekend