roybatty666

What about the panadas'!!!!! Clearly all these faster tick overs will increase CO2 and directly cause the death of numerous monochrome bamboo eating mammals

See the 200's are clearly the most hardcore ones as so far all the posts show them stuck!

I am tempted to start an "Offroad pics for 200tdi that used to be 2.5TD, preferably in white"

Sounds like what happened to my old calibra the noise just stopped and was replaced my a metal on metal screech and burning metal smell when the clutch was depressed. As the noise has only just started I won't worry about it then as I have a feeling my lt77 is in need of replacement as I have wear in my rear output shaft/gear I believe so will do the clutch then. Cheers for the info as ever

Ahh makes sense, so when it also makes nasty noises when I put the clutch in I should be ready for a bang?

wouldn't that make a noise when the clutch was pressed in rather than shut it up?

I have a whirring rumbley noise when driving or in neutral from the gearbox which goes away when I push the clutch in. I assume this is an input shaft bearing? Is it the case or the helical cut gears pushing the shaft away and into the rear bearing like other cars I have had? If it is I guess its new box time? Working through all my noises Cheers chaps

doh answered my own question Body Cappings (who would have thought it), the question is should I paint the replacement ones as it seems paining on galvanised metal is a pain? I can't seem to find any part numbers? edit and now I have ASR1397 and ASR1396 or ALR5513 and ALR5514 is one set galvanised and the other plain steel Sorry for all the questions

Hi all What is the tub metal top trim around the top of the tub that he rook bolts into called? Mine has rusted in a few places, I think i may be able to clean the rust out the small holes and spot weld the holes up. Alternatively can I drill out the rivets and fit a replacement? The tub itself is in good condition so no point binning the whol thing Cheers chaps

take the slack out gradually with wheels straight on as this is the natural tightest point as the two lock positions have more slack in the box to allow ease of centering I assume. It should be a little tight on straight ahead (and I mean a little) as you will find i beds in a little, but the steering should self correct from left or right after a corner up until it is almost straight. Oh do the lock nut up tight as mine cam undone and caused slack in the shaft and I lost half my fluid past the seal!

I have a normal (maybe even small) garage and with 31" tyres I gently rub my rear roof edge on the lifted up garage door. When I put my spare wheel back in that drops it by half an inch so can drive in with no nasty noises I have no idea what suspension she is riding although she seems a little high compared to a TD5 at work

There is also marked drop going from a 1990+ to a 1985-86 Land Rover 90, I assume it is the 20 year old status pushing it into classic car territory

Been a while since I read up on this (for a petrol car so I may be a bit off on my info) With the water injection bringing the intake charge temp down, giving condensed air and also reducing the cylinder temps aren't you meant to lean the fuel out as you don't have to worry about pre-detonation? This would give optimum efficiency as you will be over fueling as a percentage of the fuel being added is not for combustion but for cooling purposes and you have water being added for that. Using methanol in there adds all sorts off issues if memory serves as you need to calculate the calorific value (energy) that the methanol adds to the fuel air mic as well as the chamber cooling / air density effect. This is probably all to ott for a TDI Landy and only applicable to highly strung petrol turbo'd engines I think a form of 5 / 6 stroke engine operation is the way to go, so much "free" power to be had Cool project though chap, On an unrelated note my misses is from langebaan and used to go "Bundu Bashing" in the Namibian desert, she thinks England sucks

If you are the main driver being a name driver is not the way to go as it will invalidate your insurance, also you need to start buildiing those no claims. I can't see why a slow non boy racer type of vehical would be 2k 1lthough I am an old codger at 30 and with no NCBs (used on my p38) I get TPFT for £140 on a Land Rover 90 with Lancaster.

I drive a p38 RR day to day and then get into my noisy rattly 200tdi 90 at the weekends and I love it, I feel in touch with the ground and the vehicle through all the noises, hell I can tell the coarseness of the gravel or how wet tarmac is my the noise off the rear arches echoing in the van back. The RR cushions me from everything and waft along in a 3.5 ton armchair.

Put your wheels on back to front? that will push them out Some chap at Slindon the other week through me totaly whan he pulled a 90 degree turn straight in front of me when he wanged on his fiddle brakes, was totaly not expecting it, not to mention the lack of any trail where he decided to go

I put one in the rear door handle, I got it off ebay and it came with a 30mm hole cutter, you lose one of the 2 numberplate lights but it still eant through MOT as the plate is still iluminated

no problem You could stick some spacers on and use your original wheels as that would push them further out and allow you to wind in the steering stops. Some people don't like spacers as they say they put more load on the hub bearings but it is no different from using greater offset wheels in my opinion The other thing to think about is the tighter your steering at full lock the greater the load you are putting on your CVs', especially if your doing trial/challenge events where you may have a wheel dug in at full lock. Maybe just stick some hyro steering on the rear

What Lars is saying is that the inside edge of the rim is in the same place, on both rims the wolf rims are wider than yours but the offset is different so all the extra width is on the outside edge. Basically it won't help your lock as it will rub in the same place as your normal ones would if you backed off the steering stops maybe tme for a 90 fear my mspaint skills!!

Sounds like a fantastic excuse not to go to the inlaws to me The thing is I live 1 mile from work if that and even with cheap road tax I am fed up paying out on two vehicals especialy when the Rangy does 500 miles a year if that. The fact that the sale of the rangy would get my new diffs and lockers is nothing to do with it

Seems a tough one to value, looking at fleabay's completed listings shows loads of 4.6s' being unsold and only DSEs' and LPG'd ones selling yet people are still pricing them up at 5-6k??? I supose it is only worth what someone is willing to pay I would miss driving to work in my comfy front room

Hi all I have a RR p38 that I use as my general car ad a D90 as my toy bt as I live so close to work I don't need the daily drive any more so thinking of sellig her (and what a fantastic time to sell a 4.6ltr car). The trouble is I have no idea of the value, I have looked at glass's and px seems to be £3k ish but am unsure of the true value to joe public 1996 4.6 HSE but with only 65k on the clock 18" hurricane alloys new bags all round in the last 12 months new rear box new front dampers new steering damper new front discs and pads full Service history (2 stamps missing but have receipts for those and the garage will stamp them if you go see them) Body work is burgundy (or matalic red in some lights) and in good condition for ages, a few scuffs here and there but polishes up nicely Later spec lights Engine uses no oil or water and is very strong Auto box is perfect and smooth All electrics work (bar the lcd stereo screen although stero works fine) Air suspension works as it should Cream interior with dark piping slight ware on drivers bolster otherwise top condition. Any thoughts would be appreciated Cheers chaps

Paddock have Bilstein shock on special at the moment if that makes a difference? My money however is going here, some well rated shocks (as far as I could research) and al ot of kit for your cash. You need to factor in some other bits but still bargain bucket

it's a feature I'm using mine as an excuse foir some lockers although you can get standard recon difs for about £140

lol that threw me, I wondered how you knew I was called Steve for a minute