specialbikejames

Hmmmm, I'm in a quandry really. I've no reason to change the 8274- it's always worked when I needed it to and it's got a decent bit of 11mm plasma on it too (too thick to fit to a low line I guess). On the other hand, there are loads of good quality low line winches out there, and loads of bumpers too. Could get a Goldfish and fit that jazzy air freespool! Problem with plan B is that I can't really be bothered with the hassel of buying and selling, especially as the 8274 is in my cupboard under the stairs right now ready to be fitted!

I've got a decent 8274 which I want to mount to my newly aquired and very shiney rioja red 300tdi 90 van. In the past I've mounted the winch on a First Four tubular bumper which was well made and not overly expensive when I bough it 2/3 years ago. Now the whole tubular thing would look too aggresive on what will be a much more expedition based vehicle. Any suggestions bar the 2 above, both are expensive and require cutting the wings- both of which are something I'd rather avoid. Plan B is to sell the 8274 and use the money to buy a decent low line winch and bumper.

My Instructor had another pupil refused a test because the 40ft artic trailer they were using had 5 cones in the back! A cheeky way around it is to lock the trailer and pretend you don't have a key for it. The test instructors are going to be the most pedantic bankers you've ever dealt with- that's why their driving instructors.

I think you only need one or the other. I did the B+E about 6 months ago in a Puma 110 and I'm pretty sure they don't have a buzzer. Few tips my company has learnt the hard way: - fitting suitable mirrors for the examiner is vital (caravan mirrors) - test vehicle and trailer must be completely empty (literally nothing in them bar the spare and jack etc) The examiner can refuse to even get into the vehicle if you don't meet these requirements. -Make sure your trailer meets the spec, it is quite exacting. We hired one off an instructor as all ours were too big. -Condition of the trailer is vital too- break away cable in good nick, tyres legal etc etc (they will check) Jim

UJ's and prop sliders are fine. Swivels have fresh EP90 in them and are in good condition. To be fair, I don't know about the T/G box oils so I should change them anyway. But this is not a steady rumbling, and the truck is fine 95% of the time. It's only when It's under severe load that it makes any noise at all.

Right, got a new to me 1989 127 with original drive train. LT77 box LT230 transfer box. Truck has been well looked after, only 89,000 on the clock. Everything works well 95% of the time. Drove a load of Peak District lanes this weekend- the most challenging stuff I've driven in it. In low box, when the weight of the truck comes onto the drivetrain (steep descents) a repetitive metal on metal clicking comes up through the gear/transfer box. It sounds just like two cogs just clipping each other. Only does this when using engine braking on steep descents. Only ever done it once in High range. Diff lock in or out makes no odds. Makes no difference to how the truck drives- no loss of drive, engine braking remains, no vibration through the gearstick- but obviously something is touching something when it shouldn't be. Gear and transfer boxes seem abit of a dark art, but any help gratefully received before I run crying to a specialist. Jim

Have you tried here as a starting point? www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu

300TDi seems an ok price. It's still alot of money for something that will have been worked hard. Having said that, I just paid what I consider a good price for this: (with Wolfs/All terrains not the Mach 5's) It's obviously older, with a worse engine, but even though it would have had a hard early life it seems fine. I don't what to put the price up on an open forum, but if you want to know more PM me.

I'm definately on the "kinetic ropes = death/destruction" side of the fence, but it has to be noted that they are staggeringly effective. Lots of people do not have winches, so a kinetic rope is a cheap and very effective option- that's why so many pople use them. I've always been impressed by what they can do anyway. If I didn't have a winch fitted there would definately be one of these in the tool locker to be used as a last resort. The problem is that people are too lazy to explore the other options.

I forgot to calc' for the return trip- Doh! Either way it's not cheap. I loved the V8 too, but no matter how many theorectical millage/price per litre/tyre choice calculations you do before you buy it will be more expensive than you think.

That has made me sick into my mouth.

No! I mean fuel. Average consumption (on a "combined" cycle) was 12mpg. That's not cheap even when you are paying 55p a litre. I stopped working it out after a few weeks, not worth the heart ache. I drove it to Snowdon from Bristol and back. It needed to be filled up three times, 240litres @ 55p = £132 (although I did have nearly a third of a tank left). That's nearly a pound a mile. Towing or hill work- don't depress yourself.

The Volvo axles will also give you a performance boost as well as being stronger- being portals. Upgrading to Sailisbury's/Patrols/whatever just gives you increased strength. If you're going to spend the money it must be better to spent it on something that kills two birds with one stone?

The ex-MOD ambulances look much nicer and they will earn extra street cred at Land Rover events, the newer quadtech/box/luton bodied TD5's look very utilitrian by comparison. Try here: http://www.exmod.co.uk/defendersforsale.html 130 quadtech single cab on there now...

Here's what I sold, 80ltr LPG tank,80,000 miles, good nick, and I stopped off roading it before I destroyed it. I don't think you can go wrong with one as you're first Landy. But even with LPG they're not cheap to run.

Looks like a good'un but bear in mind I just sold my pretty decent genuine V8 for nearly half that.

I've just bought this: It's got a very well looked after 2.5TD in it, I was very sceptical having always steered way from them and paid extra for 200TDi's. But I have been pleasantly suprised, it pulls well, even with the truck weighing in at nearly 2.4t when empty! She'll sit at 65 on the motorway and cruise on A roads at 60 too, it only really struggles on steep hills. Once you drop off the turbo it really starts to grind. That's probably the only reason I'll upgrade to 200TDi- just because my last 110 never seemed to suffer unduly on steep sections. But I only went for it because the guy could produce a stack of reciepts relating to the engine- it's basically been rebuilt in the last year, so I was confident that it is going to last for another few (I hope- touch wood!).

Wozza, feel free to jump on the Box section. I've not got the time/inclination to make my own at the moment. Anyway, I spent the weekend walking around Bristol city centre picking up pennies so I can afford the Safari Equipe ones!

ATF fluid? That stuff smells like cats tiddle (suplhur) to me. Would tie in with your leaking t box/g box.

I thought Mill Services had stopped trading? I bought a set of 110 tree sliders off them a few years ago and they were well made- the bracketry was abit carp though. Safari Equipe want £235+VAT a set, which is just about ok but definately not cheap. I'll get on to the other suppliers tommorow as I've got a day off. Cheers

Nope, I will now though. I'm in roughtly the same part of the world as them.

As the title suggests I'm looking for a set of jackable sills for a 130 I've just bought. Anyone know of a supplier who makes them? If not, the only thing I can really think of doing is getting some 110 sills and lengthening them. They should attach in a similar way to the 110 sills I had from Mill services, it's just getting them in the right length that's an issue.

Old Jerry cans=heart ache! Seen "dipping" being conducted on Whiteladies Rd in central Bristol of all places, for some reason they pulled the new Golf Gti (petrol!) in front off me and left my ropey looking 20 year old 110 rumble past. Observant copper that one.

You do need the breakaway cable as far as I know, all our TD5's and newer Puma 110's at work have eyes on the hitch supports for this purpose. Towing eye and pin is legal. Ball hitches scare me- with a towing eye I can see the things attached as there's a great big pin holding it on!

You can get even cheaper copies on ebay for about £25.00 (a year ago when I boughtmine anyway) They are unbranded and probably carp, but they still act as a decent deterent.