Porny

Not a problem! Ian

Hrmm... Air in the fuel will cause similar problems.... did you make sure you remove the old seals from the fuel filter housing before you fitted the new filter? - I had a similar problem whereby a customer had changed the fuel filter, but the rubber seal from the old filter had stayed attached to the filter housing - and not come away with the old filter. Also - was it a genuine or none genuine filter?? You do sometimes get faulty filters!!! How noisy is your fuel pump - i.e. when you turn the ignition on, is it quite loud? A failed (or failing) fuel pump will cause the lack of power. Getting it to bleed the system after you changed the filter may have finished it off. Injector harness.... (do both the following with the ignition off) remove the plastic engine cover (13mm spanner needed) and at the front (drivers side) corner of the head - on the underside - behind the fan - you will see a black plastic plug... unlclip this and see if there is any oil present in the plug. Also, lift out the drivers seat base, and unplug the red plug from the ECU - see if any oil is present in the plug or the ECU side of the plug. A failed air flow meter will cause lack of power - ideally you need diagnostic equipment to check this, although you can do it with a multimeter. Ian (edited to say Mr BogMonster posted some of the info at the same time!)

As mentioned on the other post (and now copied here).... There are two types of 10AS unit, one ends in 270 - the other 280. 270 is base model spec, 280 is the higher spec unit and the only one with the central locking output. If if you swap the coding over, you can not get a 270 to control the central locking - played around with this for quite a while!! Basically with either set-up, you get a list of options... with basically everything turned off, all the engine ECU will do is request a code from the 10AS unit... if this code is the one the engine ECU expects to see, then the engine is allowed to start. On a Defender if you remove the panel holding all of the clocks (speedo etc etc) you will see the 10AS unit screwed to the bulkhead. A green box with a grey and green plug going into it. With regards to the Nanocom - I've played with one when I was in greece (on a new Trans'fender/Puma) and in all honesty got annoyed with it, and used my Rovacom instead!! Ian

There are two types of 10AS - the part number either ends 270 or 280. 270 is base model, whereas 280 is fitted to higher spec models - it is only the 280 that has the central locking output. Ian

If it was my Td5.... Fit a lock to the lid under the drivers seat - thus preventing access to the ECU Move the horn for the alarm (or the battery back up siren) - at the moment it is situated behind the passenger headlamp, move it backwards or prevent access to it - the favorite method of access is through the wheel arch spat, or the more long winded method of removing the headlamp. But if it's not where it's supposed to be, then harder for the people to disconnect. A mechlock from Mud Stuff - http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Meck_Lock.html Not cheap, but very effective. A Disk Lock wheel lock - a geniune one, not a cheap copy. Ian

Hrmm... Had a phone call from him when I was selling my old 110... lasting impression. Like a 'gear knob' but without the 'gear' bit. Ian

Yes... Fully 'E' Marked and legal for road use!!! At the moment I'm having a few 'issues' with the mounting plinths, but this should be sorted ASAP!! Ian

Nope..... By the sounds of it you might have a RoW spec Td5, but the remap is designed for a European Defender with EGR. In saying that, I've never checked that the EGR flag is set to disabled in a RoW spec - it might just be the values in the map that stop it working. Even so, having no EGR will not cause problems - even if it did expect to see one. Although it will flag up on the fault code list, removing the EGR on Euro Spec Td5 map will not cause any running issues (apart from usually making it better) and does not put the MIL on etc etc. I must admit, as BogMonster said, your injector compensation values are a bit on the high side... but even so, this usually just causes a rough idle, rather than lack of power. Even the Disco I worked on the other day - which has something seriously wrong with its injector physical settings - still had low figures at idle. Although it shouldn't affect anything at lower speeds/rpm - have you checked the injector coding are correct?? I.e. cross referenced the codes on the top of the injectors to what the ECU expects? Ian

You do not need a CAT on a diesel... regardless of whether it was there from new or not. The current 2008 MOT system for Diesel (i.e. compression ignition) vehicles only requires an Opacity test, (i.e. smoke) and not an actual emissions test as per petrol (spark ignition engine). The CAT (and for that matter the EGR) does not actively affect smoke…. This differs from a diesel particulate filter (which is also exempt from testing at the current time). The only requirement is that the max smoke value for a turbo charged diesel is a mean (of the last 3 smoke tests) not exceeding 3.00m-1. For an initial 'fast pass' the smoke value must be below 1.50m-1. In simple terms.... the only reason a modern diesel have CATs and EGR (along with other things) is to enable a manufacturer to meet the current EU legislation (for example EU4/5), but once a vehicle model has been type approved, and sold to the customer... the customer is technically free to do what they like regarding emissions, as long as they meet the requirements of their country, which in the UK is just the MOT test. Ian

Defenders never had the modulator, EGR - is this removed correctly? - or just a blanking plate?? Are you still running a centre silencer?? I have seen these partially blocked before, which can cause problems. Do you get any fault codes logged on Rovacom - just wondered if you have the correct map? Does you water temp gauge work correctly? Rovacom reads actual pressure - so boost pressure + ambient pressure... so as ambient pressure is roughly 1bar or 100Kpa, you should be seeing between 1bar (100kpa) and 1.2bar (120kpa) boost pressure - so a combined max of 220kpa or thereabouts. Overboost occurs at just over 1.4bar, and then will disable fueling until the pressure drops back below it's set point. In all honesty, next thing I'd be looking at is fuel pressure, and then the injectors. I worked on a Disco the other day, that had previously had (at great cost) a set of recon injectors - but they were more of a CON than a RECON!!! - performance was flat to say the least!!! Ian

The 60th Anniversary lights will be on my website very soon!! I can also supply normal NAS lamps, and LED coloured Lens LEDs for the front and rear. My website - IRB Developments LED's are legal, as long as the lamp is E Approved. The problems arise when people convert standard lamps to LEDs - i.e the LED replacement bulb is not E Approved, and the lens itself is not approved for LED use. The LED NAS lamps are also a lot shallower, so do not require bodywork modifications. Ian

What year is the Defender?? If post 2002 get rid of the CAT, and fit a none CAT down pipe Clean the MAP sensor (and personally I'd remove the EGR set-up - which may actually be causing problems) Whose Remap are you running? When you hit overboost, the ECU will cut fueling... which on some Td5's is very abrupt. You could try running slightly more boost (17psi) although, with the extra fueling from the remap you 'may' need to run a box to stop the ECU seeing the increased boost, and thus hitting boost cut. With the Rovacom on, go for a drive with the live page on (or recording) - what max value do you see on the manifold pressure?? should be 220Kpa ish at full throttle on a hill (thus max boost pressure reached). Also, what value do you see from the MAF?? - should be 55 - 60kg/hr at idle. Ian

Unless you really want a stainless exhaust, then the standard set-up isn't bad at all. Most of the replacement exhaust systems are the same bore as standard anyway, so you won't gain a huge amount. The best setup on a Td5 without spending a fortune (in my opinion) is: A Pre 2002 specification None Cat Down pipe, a straight through centre silencer (or one with a smaller, straight through silencer) and a standard rear set-up. Ian

Not that cheap.... But when they turn up next week I will have Land Rover 60th rear light conversions for sale. All clear lens LEDs including the reverse and fog lamp - and unlike the 60th, my kit will also come with clear LED indicators. All wiring will be included so will be a plug and play on all Defenders. The units are very well sealed, and have a superseal plug conection. As per this picture: They are not even avaliable from Land Rover yet!! Ian

I can supply the correct ITG filter Yes Drop me a pm. Ian

Nothing that extreme... only normal bits and pieces: Remap for the ECU (including speed limiter removal) Bigger, more efficient Intercooler None CAT Downpipe Centre Silencer Replacement ITG replacement Air Filter Ian

Have you thought about http://www.safari-equip.co.uk I've had quite a bit of stuff off them for customers, including wheel carriers - and have always been impressed. And they clear the new type foglights, so a full NAS setup should be fine. They have greaseable joints and you can have a galvanised one if needed (bare or powdercoated). If you drop me a pm/text I can probably sort you one out with a bit of discount Ian

Stage One (still working on stage 2 at the moment).... You’re looking at approx. a 30bhp and 50Nm gain over standard, which if your Defender actually makes what LR claim, then.... Standard - 120bhp and 359Nm torque Remapped - 150bhp and 409Nm (torque is more important!!) And the option of removing/resetting the speed limiter. I realise that these figures are slightly lower that others claim, but this is the typical gain on a proper, 4wd temperature controlled rolling road. In all honesty there is a huge difference in what people claim, and actually develop for Td5's... so Puma's are probably no different. All I know is when driving you instantly notice the extra power and torque. Remap undetectable to LR Dealers (as per Td5 if done properly) Price - pm me for details - with forum discount. Is simply just a remap for stage 1.... Although I can also supply none CAT down pipes, ITG air filters etc etc. Ian

I'm biased - they drive much better!!, but then I do them and can also remove the factory speed limter. Still early days compared to Td5 tuning and development, but you do get a good and safe gain (genuine +50Nm and 150bhp) Ian

4500 Euros for a set of injectors - cheaper to pay for me to fly to Finland lol I doubt its the injectors... to check, the garage could look at the live cylinder compensation via suitable diagnostic kit - if the values are below below +/- 10 then injectors are all ok. By the sounds of it, it is more likely to be air getting into the fuel system - or even a partially blocked pipe. I'd get the fuel pressure checked at the engine, and make sure it is seeing 4 bar. Td5 Disco's do suffer split fuel pipes, more rare on Defenders - but worth checking. The other thing that can cause problems is the fuel filter. It has been known for the filter housing to be porus, so sucks in air - these are a lot cheaper than a new injectors!!! . Also, as mentioned change the filter. I'd also fit a new set of injector sealing washers. Is worth checking the red ECU plug, but usually this causes misfires rather than just stopping the engine. Has there been any fault codes logged?? Ian

It doesn't take long for people to crash them!!! - have seen one written off with less than 5000 miles. In saying that, I know of one breaker that wanted more for a used bonnet than they are to buy new (which I seem to remember is £400) Ian

I can get complete 'new' defender take off bulkheads - so come with dash, harness etc etc. Only thing you will have to play around with is the clocks to get them working. Or are we just taking late Td5 Dashboards?? (can get these too ) I can also get the new type bonnets either new (from LR) or used salvage ones. No idea on postage to Aus though - a bulkhead isn't light! Ian

Depends on the vehicle.... Most you need to bridge the two pins on the harness side of the plug, so that it stays in 'high' all the time. Unless you have diagnostic kit, just unplug it and go for a drive in high - if very unresponsive then you need to bridge the pins. Ian

Sort of.... EU2 engines have a none flashable ECU. To remap these you remove a chip, fit a socket board and fit a new chip with modified fuelling file (and in my case - I also fit an encription board). You don't changed the chip for a flashable one. The chips used are one time programmeable, so you program it with the new files before you plug it in. You can use a later Flash type ECU (part number NNN*****) but you need to program it with files suitable for an earlier EU2 engines. Using the wrong files (i.e. later ones) is not good - there are lots of differences in the engines - not all TD5's are the same! Kev Baldwin - are you reading this Personnally... I'd stay away from plug in boxes... some are better than others, but they are still a bodge method of tuning. Most of them are nothing more than jumper that makes the injector stay open for longer. What people don't realise is you can adjust a lot more than just pulse width on a Td5!! As for making your better from rest - I'll soon have a bolt on VNT conversion for Td5's!!.... But until then, a remap (esp a stage 2 with a bigger cooler) can make quite a difference to low end - as well as mid range and top end. But you need to make sure your engine is working correctly first!!! - faulty MAF sensors, faulty EGR's, low fuel pressure can all cause problems!!! Ian

The first two links seem to refer more to Spark Ignition Engines (petrol) but the third link does have a more interesting section The thing any of the links fail to mention is the problems caused by EGR's... (copied from my post in the internation section - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28642) The problem with Td5 EGR valves (and 300tdi for that matter) is that over time the carbon (and sludge) build up prevents the valve from sealing correctly, which results in exhaust gas bleeding past all of the time. If the percentage of EGR gets too high (and is being passed all of the time) it can lead to serious problems - including rapid bore wear, reduced MPG, increased smoke and poor acceleration. There has been numerous SAE papers written about this. Another factor to consider is on what diesel you use in your Td5... In the UK it isn't such a problem, but if you travel overseas and use high suplher diesel you find the EGR pipes become corroded. Bit more info - http://irbdevelopments.com/EGRexplan.html Not saying I'm right, but this is my understanding. Also... if your EGR kit is one of the Britpart ones off EBAY, I'd be very tempeted to fit two jubilee clips where the intake pipes goes onto your replacement inlet section!! The ones on EBay do not have any addtional method to prevent the pipe from being blown off under boost pressure, and instead rely on the reistance from the jubilee clip - not ideal!! Ian