Porny

Its the same immobiliser unit as per late 300Tdi Defender, and all Td5 Defenders. Its' got a 10AS unit in the same place behind the instrument cluster. I wonder if it just needs the 10AS settings just need changing to a basic spec? - has the farmers 90 got an alarm key fob etc etc? The one Puma I was playing with in Greece, was set for the immobiliser and alarm to automatically set itself after a period of time (which meant all of the doors locked themselves)... even with the keys still inside!!! (not in the ignition). The settings were soon changed! Ian

Personally - i'd also just replace the callipers. If you are doing itself it's not as bad - but if your paying someone else, it's cheaper to buy new. I'd go for vented on the front (using late 110 front callipers - if you have a 300Tdi) with decent discs (OEM is good enough) and decent pads. On the rear just go standard - again with OEM discs and pads. Braided brake lines and new fluid also helps. With your master cylinder again, from a cost vs time point of view, I'd just go new. Regards Ian

0-60mph..... 0-110mph is better - http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=1lhZebejc48 Ian

Amungst the other things mentioned.... I'd take a Td5 crank sensor (the only sensor that will stop a Td5 running) - I'd also consider taking a MAF and a MAP sensor. A programmed ECU (i'd take one with Immo off, as most basic setup) - I'd have it set to RoW spec (so slightly better for dodgy fuel). I'd also remove the EGR if fitted. An injector loom (or two) A fuel pump - but cut a hole in your floor so that you can change the pump without dropping the tank A supply of fuel filters A diagnostic tool Before I left I'd consider looking at the clutch, and inspecting the dual mass flywheel. And then some basic tools, cable ties and duct tape!! Ian

I'll be up in Hibaldstow on Sunday if you faniced a drive over... haven't got a Nanocom... but have got a Rovacom which is better anyway What do you need doing? Ian

I don't actually think you'll see a worthwhile improvement.... it might help when standing still... but then you'd have to make sure it doesn't become counter productive when on the move - i.e. causes a restriction. Ian

I think you'd be struggling for space!! Unless you start modifying brackets etc etc. Ian

They are cheapish (about the same as anywhere else), but depends what make they are... Ian <blatent spam>I could do a set for £16.55 + vat each (and £8.00 postage) for a set of springs from Allmakes... I've fitted a few sets and never had any problems with them sagging etc etc.

Yep, you can fit the green top injectors from your current engine... and you 'could' also fit the later EGR set-up. As for the fuel return, your fuel pipe work will fit to the early engine.. so you can leave all the fuel system as is. The difference is in the head, and the fuel regulator block - no need to block anything off. Personally though.... I wouldn't bother. I'd keep looking for a later engine. You will also have to have the files changed on your ECU to suit the older type engine... but it is almost a backward step. Ian

Post 2002 changes... Injectors and operating pressures (i.e. fuel pressure) Head (external fuel return) Head Gasket (steel) Fuel Regulator ECU and mapping!! Wiring Loom EGR Set-up (very different!) CAT on post 2002 And a few other things.... Ian

I haven't used Nanocom that much (read once), but have still got it installed on my PC. Looking at the setting page it displays it as 5 digit code as per any other diagnostic tool... unless I'm missing something. The first four letters are as per the injector - the 5 letter is then converted into a number... For early ECU (MSB*****) and black top injectors: A = 0 or 3 B = 1 C = 2 For later green NNN ECU's and green top injectors: E = 1 F = 2 G = 3 H = 4 J = 5 K = 6 L = 7 M = 8 or 0 You can ignore any other numbers/letter on the injector. You then just need to make sure you have the correct files for your ECU and Engine. If the ECU is from the Discovery you need to change the files to make it a Defender (or amoung other things your temp. gauge will work the wrong way round). With a later engine, and the later NNN500020 ECU I'd run - 90 Tune: Fuel Tune ID code SVLNE 007 Vehicle Variant ID code SVTNP 006 or 110 Tune: Fuel Tune ID code SVLOE 005 Vehicle Variant ID code SVTNP 006 I think the above are in the format used by Nanocom. If it was me I'd probably run the 110 tune - as I tend to find it drives better... but the choice is yours. You also need to make sure you have the correct throttle pedal selected on the ECU setting page. Depending on VIN, your Defender may have the earlier 2 pot throttle. In which case this needs to be selected rather than 3 pot/track - or your throttle won't work (usually). All that is left to then is 'teach' the engine ECU it to your 10AS unit... via the learn function. If you want to clever, you can also change the VIN in the ECU to match your Defender. Ian

The one in the picture is a genuine part jobbie - Part Number STC4629 - which is £82 in vat from the main dealers... Ian

I'd get some diagostic kit plugged in, and have all the live data checked. There are a couple of things that could be problems.... but unless you get it plugged in, you could just be fire fighting. It migh be as simple as a failed MAF sensor... How far North West are you? Ian

Now sorted.... Ian

I'm after a few bolt lengths... all for a 200TDi Defender. I'm after length, size and quantity of bolts for: The front timing cover and the bolts in the rear of the timing cover The cambelt tensioner bolt Bed Plate bolts (the bit the sump attaches to) Sump Bolts Cheers Ian

Si, You have a pm. Ian

Matt... It could be a few things. Check the injector loom as you have already mentioned. My next port of call would be to look at the turbo - and in particular the wastegate. Td5 turbo have a habit of suffering from sticky wastegates -when this happens it causes overboost (i.e. higher pressure than expected) so the ECU cuts the fuelling until boost pressure is back below the limit. To check the wastegate, clamp a set of mole grips on the none threaded part of the wastegate actuator and try and extend the arm towards the bulkhead. If it doesn't move, or is very stiff.... remove the heat shield around the turbo, and unclip the actuator arm from the wastegate (small 'C' clip). Then try and move the wastegate arm itself separately... it should move with little or no force. If stiff or seized, give it a good soaking in WD40 and then try and free it off. Once freed off, refit the wastegate arm and go for a drive. Ian

Do a search for a post on the 'lowered 90 update' (or something along those lines) With a good intercooler, exhaust mods, hybrid turbo, a few other bits... and a very good remap you can get a genuine 195bhp and 460Nm (340lbft) from a Defender. The one thats been on this forum (and is in LRE next month) gets driven like its stolen everyday, reguarly does over 100mph on private roads, gets used over the 'full rev range' (i.e. untill it hits the rev limiter and thus pops and farts - which is slightly higher than standard). And everyone who drives it, or is a passenger is always surprised!! (and some of the people have driven JE, JF tunes etc etc) So far, the standard engine has taken all of this abuse without fault. EGT levels are still within safe limits etc etc. It actually does 0-60 in less than 8.5 seconds and tops out at 116mph or thereabouts on standard ish gearing. In all honesty the power delivery (and thus the mapping) is tailored towards road use, but you could get similar but very useable power for off road use. But you will have to uprate shafts and CV's etc etc (as my mate in Greece found!) For off road use, I'd happily run a Td5 with a Variable Geometry Turbo (which is still under development at the moment - but 'should' be avaliable before Christmas), with the correct mapping, turbo lag is none existant and literally plant your right foot and it goes!! With the Variable Geometry Turbo conversion that Pete Bell and myself are developing, we are not looking for out and out power - but massively improved drivability at lower speeds.... i.e. the points a standard Td5 is lacking. With a relocated ECU (or waterproofed), a Td5 is good even in deep in water... the only other thing worth loosing is the 10AS alarm unit (although this is easily done). The other option a LR TDV6 - watch this space Ian

Yes there is.... Made by Rakeway (and avaliable with a choice of clutches) or Britpart (though not sure if this is a cheapened version) I can supply the Rakeway one if required. Only downside is that you get a chatter at idle. Ian

You should have asked me... I would have got the parts cheaper! If you want I could pop round with my puller and get the pulley off for you at the weekend? - unless you can get the engine down to my workshop?? As for the liveridge comment... you should speak to one of my customers!! - I can't type some of the words he would use, but would be along the lines of them being bankers. He bought a 90 from Liveridge - apparently all checked over and fully serviced. Well... two days later the water pump failed. They fitted a new one. A week later the engine failed - sounded like a stones in a metal biscuit tin. Apparently it was water damage through off roading. Hrmm... The filter couldn't have been wet though as they refitted the old dusty one. They also refitted the old dented oil filter, and by the looks of it re-used the same oil. A week later we found that the turbo had failed. Surprised they never noticed that. Well now... about a month or two later. Surprise surprise the engine has failed again last weekend. Cause of the problem - someone has used the wrong bolt on the cam pulley. So the cam pulley fell off (the fact the cam belt tensioner was in its none tensioned point probably didn't help either). The use of the wrong bolt has also damaged the cam. All eight push rods are bent, and there is some serious witness marks on the pistons. Judging by the amount of oil in the rocker cover, the seals used are all the original ones... so the belt was heavily oil stained. But the problem continues. He has had the oil light flickering quite a bit. Liveridge said to ignore it as 200Tdi's never have oil pressure issues... must be a dodgy sensor. Well actually... it was suffering oil problems.... the cause.... When they fitted all his old components to the replacement bottom end, instead of using new gaskets they enjoyed using an RTV like compound. They had used that much when they refitted the oil filter assembly, it partially blocked off the oil feeds... so would have been starving the engine of oil. This has now trashed the new turbo.... So... he now has an engine with a set of trashed pushrods, been run with low oil pressure, heavy witness marks on the pistons, a new clutch doesn't look new, and a few other problems. Because of the hassles he's had, he doesn't want his Land Rover ever going back to Liveridge again... and although technically under warranty he knows that Liveridge will try and fob him off with some lame excuse. And he really can't be bothered with the hassle!! He just knows he will never go there again. In all honesty knowing the customer, I really wouldn't like to be on the wrong side of him!!! I.e. I wouldn't like to be on the receiving end of him. They also missed during the service and pre sale check over: All the bushes (i.e. all round) are knackered, the springs are knackered all round, all the dampers are knackered, some one has bodged on a new rear crossmember, and a few other things. In all honesty, the customer admits he should have noticed some of this, but he shouldn't have had to!! Please note I'm not slating Liveridge, I have never had any dealings with them... I'm just stating what I found on the customers car and what he has told me. And another vote for Turners - very well priced and very helpful!!! Ian

Rob, I've replied to your pm, but thought I'd post some of the answer here too for future reference.... A Td5 is no more difficult to swap than a 200 or 300Tdi. In all honesty you can use a Td5 from any age of Discovery or Defender... A Disco and Defender engine are the same bar a few ancilleries that can be easily swapped from the old engine. The ECU issue is an easy one.... If you put any age of Td5 engine in your Disco, it will run with the ECU that is currently fitted... but it won't be ideal. But it will run happily enough for you to do a test drive. If you use a pre 2002 engine.... Then your current ECU will be fine, but you will need to have the injector coding changed to match the injectors fitted to the 'new' engine. This takes about 5 mins once you have the rocker cover off to see what the injector codes are. If you use a post 2002 engine... Then you need a post 2002 ECU. This needs to be flashed with the correct files for a Discovery (if not already - Defender ECU is exactly the same), the throttle pedal will possibly need to be set to a two track (different throttle pedal on early and late Discoverys/Defenders), and you need to change the injector codes to match the 'new' engine. It will also need to be 'matched/learnt' to your Body Control Unit (immobilser function). This doesn't take very long (30 mins). Personnally... I'd go for the newest/low mileage engine I could find regardless of age. The only other thing you will need to change is the EGR set-up if you use a later engine - but I'd get rid of it anyway!! And to answer other questions... You could swap injectors over, but seems a lot more work that swapping a few codes!!! You can use later green top injectors in an early TD5, but I wouldn't put early injectors into a later Td5. Ian

A couple of my customers have Disco 3, P38 and RR alloys on their Defenders without a problem. They all fit under standard arches, but are close to the limit (picture shows 19" RR alloys) £350 for spacers is quite a bit... I can do them for less than that - drop me a pm. Ian

hrmmm..... I would take the credit, but it was actually Pete Bell from Bell Auto Services who helped Td5 Alive... not me. Ian

I don't see why you'd bother.... There are a lot of differences between EU2 and EU3 engines, and personally if I had an early engine like yours, I'd just have your current ECU remapped (physical chip change) - with a tune that suits your car and your requirements.... rather than flashing your car with a file you know nothing about to save a few quid. You could get a later ECU to work, but you would need a modified version of the files made when LR stopped selling MSB (none flash) ECU's, and only supplied the latter NNN instead. The great misconception is that a Td5 is a Td5 - so will run with any ECU, and any files.... technically it will run, but is not ideal, and not without faults. Dyno's.... are an interesting thing... they are a useful tool, but in reality only show part of the picture. You can make good power on a Dyno, and get some impressive power figures - only to find the car drives like an absolute dog on the road!! So needs to be turned down. A quick, short blast on a Dyno is very different to a prolonged climb up a hill. It is true that operators can falsify figures by simply touching the brake etc etc... and at times, if the rolling road belongs to the people doing the tuning they will do anything to make sure that the figures match what they claim!! There are a lot of things people claim that can not be done.... for example much over 400Nm from an auto Disco, or over 200bhp from a car that doesn't have excessive smoke is still useable on the road. I'd happily have any of my cars on a rolling road, and have done with others on this forum. Whilst Td5's are a bit old hat.... 99% of tuners don't adjust half of the things they could do.... simply because they don't know what some bits of the maps actually do!!. The other point is encryption. There is no easy way to encrypt a late type ECU... you could spend hours fine tuning a remap - only for some one with a nanocom a few weeks down the line to rip the file and either share it, or sell it on as their own. Hence why with regards to the Variable Geometry Turbo - Pete and I have done lots of tricks (including stuff other diesel tuners have never done!!).... and the files WILL be encrypted. Why should all our hard work, and testing/development time and money be wasted?? The files to go with the turbo and some of the other 'specials' we've done are not just pulse width mods!!! One other question... when considering who to have remap work done by.... What qualifications and experience have they actually got!! - I think if people knew the true answers they'd be very, very shocked!!! You can see this not only in their files, but also what they consider to be 'safe' limits - esp. when you consider EGT. Ian

Just bear in mind... for both Disco and Defender (post 2002) there are two ECU's (more if you include auto) - both flash type... and the files used are different. If they are for the wrong ECU you will get lots of fault codes - as well as a few other problems.