Porny

Other problem is that it could be hitting over boost.... Get a set of mole grips (or similar) and clamp them onto the turbo actuator an inch or so away from itts main body (on the none threaded section) - then try and make the arm extend towards the bulkhead. There should be some resistance, but it should move about 2cm or so. If it doesn't move you've found the problem... and it's usually easy to fix. Is very common on Td5's!! Ian

I do them Well, at the moment I haven't got the anti roll bars sorted.... as playing with some adjustable ones. But I do offer -2" springs (mildly uprated so not too hard).... And unlike every one else who offers a 'lowering' kit I have also had my own dampers made, these are also -2" so actually sit in the correct part of their travel. The dampers come with a 2 year warranty and are adjustable on the car (16 point) - unlike other Dampers which you have to remove to change the settings. Another worthwhile mod is a decent set of bushes (the only ones I supply and recommend are SuperPro) With the above mods and a standard set of anti roll bars you Defender will handle well!! Ian

Have you got electric windows and central locking?? Or if you wanted to go down another route to avoid fixing the problem... Not a problem to remove the immo if you wanted to but I would need your engine ECU and you'd need to make a small wiring modification on the Defender itself. Ian

Other thing worth checking is that the wastegate on the turbo is not seized... it could be hitting the boost cut point, meaning that the ECU will cut fuelling until boost pressure drops back below it's limit point. Is very common on Td5's. If the revs were increasing but power dropping off then it's the clutch, but if the revs drop when the power cuts then it's more likely the wastegate is seized. Ian

Stage 1 is just a remap Stage 2 is a full size replacement intercooler, a matched remap to the intercooler and a boost box (to prevent overboost) Stage 3 consists of remap to suit new mods, road spec intercooler, boost box and a hybrid (none variable) turbocharger. Stage 2 is about as far as you can go if you want to keep the standard turbo (set to 18psi). And then ideally an EGR removal kit, DeCat is post 2002, air filter etc etc. Ian

These are the threads: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...t=0#entry235646 And http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...t=0#entry235646, and then http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40056&hl= Unfortunately it's probably not worth reading past the first few posts as it just turns into a slanging match. However... Stage 1 - you looking at approx 150bhp Stage 2 - approx. 175 - 180 bhp Stage 3 - approx. 190 - 198 bhp Stage3 (with a variable geometry turbo) and another mapping session - 208bhp. Torque is the more important figure, but I can't remember all the values off the top of my head. I have graphs/figures of all of the above on a proper calibrated dyno. Ian

Superpro Bushes can be bought individually.... They are also the best polyurethane bushes I have fitted and used (and some of my customers have brought some right ***p and asked me to fit). Unlike every other bush kit that I know of, in a Defender kit for example, there is actually three different hardness of bush - the hardness is dependant on its location with carefull consideration made to NVH, handling, performance etc etc. It is not a case of one hardness fits all.... Also, Superpro actually test there bushes on proper test rigs (hydraulic rams under the wheels of the car to simulate real life driving)... I wonder how many of the 'other' companies actually bother. I've been that impressed with SuperPro bushes - that I had a visit from them last week (I'm now an approved stockist!!) Ian

On a Petrol vehicle yes.... on a diesel no. The current 2008 MOT system for Diesel (i.e. compression ignition) vehicles only requires an Opacity test, (i.e. smoke) and not an actual emissions test (including NOx) as per petrol (spark ignition engine). The EGR system and the catalytic converter for that matter do not actively affect smoke…. This differs from a diesel particulate filter (which is also exempt from testing at the current time). The only requirement is that the max smoke value for a turbo charged diesel is a mean (of the last 3 smoke tests) not exceeding 3.00m-1. For an initial 'fast pass' the smoke value must be below 1.50m-1. In simple terms.... the only reason a modern diesel have CATs and EGR (along with other things) is to enable a manufacturer to meet the current EU legislation (for example EU4/5), but once a vehicle model has been type approved, and sold to the customer... the customer is technically free to do what they like regarding emissions, as long as they meet the requirements of their country, which in the UK is just the MOT test. Ian

A deCat pipe (in low grade stainless - as per original exhaust) is about £65 + vat and a couple of pound for a new gasket. Actually fitting the pipe is quite easy (3 bolts at the turbo end, two where the pipe joins the silencer) - but to get the pipe out you need to remove the gearbox crossmember. This has 4 bolts per side and 'should' simply slide out... usually a bit of gentle bit of help with a hammer is required, sometimes though, you will need to spread the chassis legs slightly to get it out. As long as you can undo all the bots (including the three at the turbo end) it won't take more than hour to fit... but having it on a ramp makes life easier. The one thing that everyone seems to have missed... Get your Defender plugged into some proper diagnostic equipment and have the live data checked - things like low boost pressure, failed MAF sensors, blocked MAP sensors etc etc can make a huge difference to performance! It is also worthwhile having your fuel pressure checked. On from that... a deCat is a good place to start... but to get any real gain you really want at least a stage 1 remap. Ian Pre 2002 Td5's (Defender and Discovery) have a main large silencer and one small rear one at the tailpipe. Post 2002 Td5's (Defender and Discovery) have the CAT in the down pipe, the large centre silencer and one small rear one at the tailpipe. Ian Depends how you drive it... make use of the extra performance (i.e. drive it like you stole it) and you WILL use more fuel. However, drive it in the same manor as you normally do, but make use of the extra torque (you will change gear less!) and you should see an improvement. One of my customers keeps a log of every single drop of diesel that he puts in his Defender... since having a stage 2 remap he gets 4mpg better on a run (same journey) ian

Filter is different internally to a Tdi.... If you need any more (not sure if cheaper or more than you've paid) Price wise: Cooper - £6.80 + vat UFI (OEM to Land Rover for Td5) - £17.96 + vat From experience... I'd also keep a couple of the 'water trap' taps in your spares box (the bit that screws into the bottom of the filter) - either the plain type or electronic water sensor type depending on what is fitted. Unlike a Tdi filter, you do not get new ones with the filter. They have a habit of snapping Ian

I am around.... Philip you will have a pm in a few mins Scatt... Remap wise I'd recommend Pete (Bell Auto Services) or I can sort you out with a remap (and I'm a lot closer to Nottingham lol) Exhaust wise.... If you can do without your Defender for a couple of days, I can have a full high grade stainless exhaust made to suit your exact spec. All TIG welded, mandrel bent etc etc. I've had quite a few exhuasts made now, from Td5 standard to side exit 200Tdi Defenders... these will soon be off the shelf, but only when I'm 100% happy. The price would be slightly lower than normal, as haven't done a full stainless puma exhaust yet.... so would use yours as a prototype/to make a template. Ian

I can supply -2" springs (well any drop or lift you want) for your Disco, with a choice of rates depending on what you use your Discovery for... I'm also currently having my own dampers made - unlike every other kit I've seen, the dampers are matched to the new spring length - meaning your springs won't drop out if you articulate. It also (more importantly) means that the dampers will be working in there correct range, rather than always being compressed. They are fully adjustable, rebuild-able and come with a full no quibble 2 year warranty - even if they are used off road (not likely with this kit, but I also do them in standard length, +2" and +5"). The only limitation to the warranty is competition use, but even this should not be a problem. My springs and dampers as standard come in black - rather than some other garish colour (but can actually be made any colour you like). One of the (well both them in some respects) 90's in the LRE magazine is my customer (blue Td5), and he'll be having all of my suspension on his 90 very soon - he had bought the other bits before I'd got involved. I should also have an adjustable anti roll bar available in the next couple of months, so can set to match your driving style. Ian

All post 2002 Td5 Defenders were fitted with the wide angle prop - complete with later UJ's - Land Rover in there wisdom obviously saw a reason to do so (also helpful with regards to increased axle articulation). FRC8386 is the none wide angle yoke (fitted as standard to all 300tdi and early Td5's) - they are £86.70 + vat for Hardy Spicer, or £66.46 for an Allmakes version. Both plus postage. I can also get wide angle props for 200Tdi's..... Ian

I've voted.... but if it means I'm never going to get my ECU back, I'm going to vote for the other people!!! Ian

Front Prop - Part Number TVB100610 for the correct wide angle jobbie... With a bit of forum discount... Allmakes Own Brand - £65.57 + vat (which actually aren't bad at all!!) Hardy Spicer - £102.30 + vat (OEM) Genuine Part - £260 ish + vat Postage would be £6.00 Could have one by Weds - and do your ECU at the same time Ian

Sort of... but not really. If you want to run a flash ecu (post 2002) on a Pre 2002 Td5 then you need to use the correct files!! An EU3 file (and the engine for that matter) is very different to a EU2 engine and file. Although it 'will' physically run - it would be far from ideal. In all honesty I wouldn't bother.... Going back to the remap question... All td5's ECU's can be 'remapped' - it is only the process that is different. Post 2002 (flash) ECU's are done via OBD11 (i.e. the diagnostic socket).... early ECU's (none flash) require a physical chip change on the main ECU board. Both methods will give the same final outcome. Ian

doh... will try again

He's not the only person who can supply the +5" Terrafirma Dampers Ian

Yes.... once Td5 is done, we are looking at 300Tdi (and 200tdi).... and a couple of other things Ian

I disagree... Out of all the Td5's I've tuned running normal stage 1 or stage 2 remaps, I have not had one yet that has warped or damaged the exhaust manifold. I've found 3 that have had warped manifolds running standard mapping. However, in each case I have skimmed or replaced the manifold, and not had issues even when running a remap. Even some of more wild stage 3 onwards tunes do not have a problem.... It all comes down to what tuners believe 'safe' EGT temps are, and what they do with fuelling. Ian

You have a pm.... Ian

Have seen that a few times lately.... Other things that could be causing problems: Failed Pipework (as above) - I have even seen a pipe which had delaminated internally so you had a flap hanging down. Failed MAP sensor (one on the intake manifold) - or it's full of crud from the EGR set-up. Cracked or partially siezed wastegate - allowing exhaust gas to bypass the impeller rather than making it spin. Split intercooler!! (again, have seen this quite a few times - both standard and some aftermarket ones suffer) Failed EGR Valve Blocked Air Filter Ian

It depends what other mods you make.... The benefit with of the hybrid turbo (apart from boosting faster) is that you can run more boost without the turbo becoming inefficient. Much more than 16psi and the Land Rover T25 starts going outside of it recommended working range as you are overspeeding the turbo. With a hybrid runinng about 18 - 20 psi of boost, a full size efficient intercooler, a proper exhast - and more improtantly fuelling to match you will be seeing over a genuine 145bhp - which isn't a bad gain from the standard 107 or 111bhp depending on engine version. Running the above boost pressures, you do need to make sure your head gasket is in good condition.... my own 200Tdi Defender used to run 18/19psi all day long and for over 40,000 miles. With a little bit of porting work on the head (removing casting lumps on a 200Tdi) you will end up with good power and torque. I will be working on a Variable Vain Turbo for 200 and 300Tdi - once the one we've designed for Td5 is finally finished!!! I have actually got a VNT that would bolt straight onto a 200Tdi already.... but is technically unproven. Ian

Don't know if you want new or used - but: I do a hybrid for a 200Tdi - is based on the larger T28 with a few mods .... Is £575 + vat It bolts straight on, no messing with oil pipework, intercooler pipe work etc etc. Ian

As per a Td5, it can be set to 'basic' base spec... so no real immobilser. As long as the ECU see's the matched 10AS then it will start.... You can unplug the ultra sonic sensor etc etc, but not sure if you deselect options whether the central locking will still work. I'm sure there is no difference in the 10AS unit used.... but I haven't messed with alarms on many Puma's. Ian