Porny

I had thought about gluing it on.... I don't mind the rivets that much, but it's the fact one side is 100% original, and the other has rivets - I don't like them not matching. And it seems almost sacrilege to put rivets in the good side to match. Ian

Really.... I'm yet to see any actual data that confirms either of these products and shows them to be anything other than snake oil. A straight through exhuast will help (esp. if you go larger than the 2 1/4" standard size.... 2.5 or even 3" will work well) In reality though... A tuned td5 will produce anything from 150 - 190 bhp.... and upto about 420Nm of torque.... A tuned Tdi.. with a tweaked pump etc etc - will produce upto about 145 - 155bhp at a max, and I doubt more than about 350Nm (again - max)... so you will always be left behind. Put another way, my 300Tdi isn't a slouch and is tweaked.... but there is no way it would keep up with a properly tuned Td5 (the one elsewhere on this forum for example - sell the lowered 90 threads) Ian

Isn't a trick... or anything that special: Traction Control can be disabled by operating the brake pedal ten times within ten seconds, when the ignition is turned on. Traction Control will be re-activated when the ignition is turned off then on again. Ian

I have a Series 3 tub that at some point has had one of the rear wings replaced.... Originally the rear tub outer wings are spot welded to the rest of the tub, but the replacement has been riveted in place - as most of them are. However... I want to get the tub back to original spec and thus have a new wing spot welded in place. Is there anyone on here with the necessary kit etc etc (bearing in mind the wing/tub are aluminum) that would be able to do it in exchange for some folding beer tokens? Somewhere near the Midlands would be good, but will happily travel. Cheers Ian

So you didn't look here then lol http://www.southdownoffroad.com/WinchBumpers_000.htm I've got a Southdown bumper on my 90... is 100% spot on. Ian

George.... Looking good. Those pictures could almost be mistaken for 1970's press launch jobbies!! Glad the Td5 is going ok. Ian

Have a look HERE £135 + postage. Ian

Or post a wanted add on the forum (when you've got more than 20 posts).... I have a dashboard in VGC going spare, and I'm not that far from you (often travel upto Long Eaton if that's closer), and I can usually get hold of other bits including door trims, head linings etc etc. Ian

What colour is the plug, and the wires into it?? Sounds like you got a chaffed cable somewhere, or lacking in earths. Also check for a good earth at the ECU - the pins into the ECU and in the blue bus bar type thing - that has ignition live one side, and earth the other. Ian

Sorry.... But I disagree... I have driven numerous Land Rovers when the clutch as failed, and it is far from impossible... infact if you want to show off, you can even use high and low. With the engine off, simply engage first gear and turn the key - with an application of the throttle you will soon be moving with very little kangerooring. The you just need to get the revs/speed right to go into second etc etc... and then using the correct revs and speed you can easily come back down the gearbox. With a little bit of practice all of this can be done very smoothly... not that anyone would really care if they were nicking your Land Rover. As for the immobilser/alarm... Regardless of what immobilser you have any pre Td5 (and that isn't too hard to get round) is very easy to get started with just a length of wire or two lengths if you don't want to jump start it. And to anyone who says.. well I have a battery cut off. Well.. try connecting a 9v PP9 battery, or better still, a nice little motorcylcle battery to the fuel cut solenoid and listen for the click. Although if you have an aftermarket alarm the siren will be going off... in theory... and if you have a Td5 setup with just the two horns (and not the battery backup) then they may or may not be going off ... it depends if someone has slashed your plastic wheel spat. You can only do so much and make it awkward for people to pinch. But if someone wants your Land Rover, they will take it. Just go for the best mechanical and electronic security you can. And before anyone states that I've given information away etc etc... what I've stated is nothing new... and is based on basic mechancial knowledge, and buying bits from stolen recovered Land Rovers from various breakers. (I always try and work out how the LR has been pinched - which is pretty sad I know!!!) Ian

Clutch claw... how does that stop your driving the car?? Drive clutchless and use the handbrake to slow down. I prefer a full metal jacket - as it covers the accelerator pedal too - http://www.rs-laser-cutting.co.uk/fullmetaljacket.htm Ian

Personnally I'd do a few other things before I fit a different cooler.... The standard LR intercooler isn't 'that' bad. Make sure the timing is 100% spot on - and you can even run the pump a little bit advanced for a bit more. Check turbo boost pressure - as standard should be 0.8bar - but a healthy 200Tdi will run 1bar or 1.2bar all day long without a problem even on a standard cooler (1.2bar or 17psi is about the limit for the turbo before it becomes inefficient) Flush your current intercooler out. Have the injectors checked and cleaned. Play with the pump a bit more, or take it off and have it reclaibrated. Ian

You could try getting it to start with a can of Eazi-start!! Make sure the thick brown wire inside the engine loom has a good 12volts - needs to be a 30amp supply. As mentioned you need a oscilloscope to check crank sensor feed.. but you can check continuity back to the ECU. The crank sensor should be connected to pins 36 and 13 of the red plug going to the ECU. Then I fit some extra good earths, ideally straight from the battery to the engine block. Fuel temp sensor you can ignore until the engine is running. On the black Plug going to the ECU check that pins 1, 2, 24 and 25 go to a good earth point. The Cut wire is a bit more interesting.... looking at the wiring diagram... There should be a brown/pink wire should be from pin 22 of the red ECU plug, then it changes to Brown/Black and is connected to injectors 1, 3 and 4... and is the power feed for these injectors.... there should also be a brown and orange wire that feed injectors 2 and 5 this comes from pin 23 of the red plug. Although I only have the post 2002 wiring diagram here. And p.s. ignore the boost box, until you've got a remap that is matched to it.... otherwise you will underfuel at the top end and loose power - have a read of the lowered 90 - update thread lol. Ian

Watch this space Ian

I have plugs, cable, and a crimping tool.... Could sort them out if you want to come and have a look at my tree!! Ian

Is a shame it's not a latter ECU (NNN****) type as we could get the Chassis Number of the vehicle it came from (well, where the ECU came from).... and HPI it etc etc and trace the engine number. One option would be as bull bar cowboy suggested - there are a few knackered engines around (oil pump failures etc etc). If you do everything properly then you 'may' have problems and get loads of grief.... but then if you don't sort it out, it may cause problems later!! Tis a bit like having an SVA done - i.e. do you do it or not .... The other, innocent explanation is that it is an engine from a stolen recovered car... I know of a few engines that have had the numbers removed - but ideally you would need a receipt for the engine purchase from a breaker, stating where the engine is from etc etc. AFAIK... the DVLA will just record 'no engine number' on a V5 if the number is missing - though you may need proof as to why it's missing. By the way your ECU will be in the post tomorrow, so should be with you Friday or Saturday if still needed. Ian

I don't charge that much lol... and could be cheaper for a bit of advertising lol. Plus the fact I would do a map to suit your car, ECU, setup and how you want it drive. AFAIK its something to do with the checksums within Nanocom... I just know as standard a Nanocom won't read/write a modified map. Without being cynical, it's just a way of making more money.... especially as the only tuner that can 'offically' supply remapped files is Td5 Alive. Ian

Interestingly.... You can can't copy, or upload modified files with a Nanocom. It will only do standard files. However... I can remap your Tomcat Ian

Welcome to the forum Skid... First thing to check. With the ignition off, remove the drivers seat base and seat box panel.... then unplug the red plug from the ECU. Is it covered in oil?? This is one of the most commom problem areas on a Td5 and can cause the problems mentioned. The fix is relatively inexpensive and easy to do. Ian

What engine is it for?? Ian

Green/White - should be an igntion feed, and also supplies a feed to the back up siren... But the rest of the wiring looks none standard - should be a feed for the LED on the dash I think amoung other things. When I next get chance (will be home again next) will double check as have a standard, un-messed with loom at home. Other option is to send me your ECU and I'll remove the need for the 10AS unit.... which will mean a few changes to the wiring, but nothing major... but you will have no immobilser at all!! Ian P.s - Shackleton thank you for you pm's!!!

As BogMonster said... Clear all the faults and go from there. Whereabouts are you in the world??? A Td5 should go through water without a problem.... Some of those faults I wouldn't expect to see on a Defender (does your temp. gauge work correctly?) What year is your Defender??? Ian

At least they got the colour correct.... Colour: Black Fuel: Diesel Engine Size (cc): 2286 Model Year (YYYY): 1959 Manufacturer: Land Rover Type: Four Wheel Drive Date of 1st Registration (DD/MM/YYYY): 01/11/1959 Number of Previous Owners: 9 (damm.... to late with this one lol) What it should be is a 1999 - 2002 spec Defender 90! I also like the fact it has electric window switches, but wind up windows. Interestingly.... all they have done is raided the parts bin at JE Engineering, or at least copied all their ideas!!! http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/d_interior.htm http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/d_exterior.htm And they are standard vented front discs by the looks of it... Ian

As mentioned.... is a common problem. Usually you can just get away with changing the injector harnesss - which is cheap and easy. A new injector harness is £40 (or thereabouts) and to change it all you need to do is remove the rocker cover.... unplug the old harness, and plug the new one in - making sure that the harness correctly latches on each injector (another cause of problems) Then keep cleaning both parts of the red plug at the ECU (i.e. male and female parts)... with a thin screwdriver (or just your nail) you can unclip the white cover part of the red plug, which will give you better access to the terminals... after a bit (and with the new injector harness) the red plug should stay oil free. Ian

From the workshop manual: SWITCH - CLUTCH PEDAL The clutch pedal switch is located on the clutch master cylinder and is activated when the clutch pedal is operated. The ECM uses the signal from the clutch pedal switch to provide surge damping during gear change. Surge damping stops engine speed rising dramatically (engine flaring) during gear change. Surge damping assists driveability as follows: • Smoother gear change. • Greater exhaust gas emission control. • Improved fuel consumption. Input / Output When the clutch pedal is in the rest position, the clutch switch is closed. This allows a feed to flow from the switch (C0667-1) to the ECM (C0658-35) on a black/white wire. When the clutch pedal is pressed the switch contacts open, cutting the feed to the ECM. The clutch pedal switch can fail in any one of the following ways: • Switch open circuit. • Short circuit to vehicle supply. • Short circuit to vehicle earth. In the event of a clutch pedal switch failure surge damping will be inactive. Ian