Porny

Without seeming like a blatent plug as EGT gauges have come up a few times on this thread.... I sell these.... Few more details: Combined 52mm Boost Gauge and Exhaust Gas Temp Gauge. Will fit straight into a Defender Dash. Measure 0 - 30 Psi and from 0 - 1800 degrees F (which is -17 to over a 1000 degrees C) - come complete with pressure sensor to fit into your inlet manifold, and a Thermocouple and boss for your exhaust. For 300Tdi and Td5 - I can supply a fitting kit, so no drilling required (just a few bolts). However, this requires removal of the EGR system (if not already done) For other engines you will need to drill and tap into your exhaust manifold and inlet manifold. Wiring wise, you just need a 12v ignition live, and a good earth, everything else is included. The gauges are back lit blue (via LEDs) - which is fully automatic and adjusts automatically for day time, and night time use. The small silver button allows you to recall max EGT and boost pressure. Forum discount avalible. Ian

Interestingly... I've played around with a few Nanocoms, still not as good as my Rovacom IMHO... but a handy tool, and is only £200 so fairly cheap (so in that sense, they are much better!!) The high/low issue... On the 110's I've used a Nanocom on in the past, they both showed that when the transfer box was in high, the Nanocom thought it was in low - which disagreed with my Rovacom which was correct. It is very easy to check though - you simply need to unplug the high/low switch from the transfer box and bridge the two pins with a length of wire (the pins on the plug from the harness). This will swap its default position. The throttle response between high and low is very noticeable!! Land Rover made some Td5's think they were in low, even though they were actually in high.... this was to get around the transmission shunt that some customers complained about when driving in high range... if yours is one of these you can change this by bridging the wires as mentioned above.... and suddenly you will have a very different throttle!!! Ian

A 90" Td5 Antiroll bar is shaped to fit around the tank, and I'm 99.999% sure a 110" is too... If you want one off td5 Ian

If none of the above.... Remove the cover off the diaphragm (four flat head screws). Remove the diaphragm - but mark its current position first. Look down the tube (where you've just took the diaphragm out of) and move the lever on the injector pump to give full throttle. You should see the pin (that works of the diaphragm to control fuel on/off boost) pop out. If it doesn’t' then you've found the cause of the problem... If it does, using a small screwdriver, push the pin back in. If it doesn't bung some WD40 down inside the tube, and keep trying.... if that doesn't work, then you need to do a bit more stripping (not your clothes!!!) Also... check the pipe that goes from the turbo to the diaphragm - they do have a habit of splitting. Ian

Disco and RR use the same axle... was one of 117 shared parts I think..... Ian

Personnally I would keep it.... Even though there are quite a few people who remove them. The fuel cooler keeps the fuel at a constant 70 degrees... EUI injectors can put quite a bit of heat into the fuel, hence why it is cooled on it's return to the tank. Without the cooler, fuel temp will steadily increase, which will affect performance (and emissions). Although the ECU will cope with changes in fuel temp, I'd rather keep it inside pre-determined limits and the cooler the better. In saying that, you could try removing it and putting a thermocouple into the fuel supply - or even just into the tank and measure the change in fuel temp with your set up. Ian

Jamie, Not that it helps that much.... but I've got one sat in my lounge if you want a look next time your your here. As you do.... ideal for the mantlepiece lol Ian

You want one of my Td5 intercoolers..... Not that it really helps Td5 standard intercooler has a larger surface area, so should in theory cool the air better than the standard 300Tdi.... but (as with any horizontally mounted single pass intercoolers) you do start inducing lag due to the longer intake pipe work needed to connect up to the turbo and the inlet manifold. Also you need to consider internal area etc etc. I've heard that the Saab ones are good (as per dollythelw) and also some Volvo jobbies.... I've also seen one off a Iveco truck fitted to a Defender... I also looked at one off a new Renault that looked like it would fit For a bit more bling, you could always start looking at charge cooler setups instead. Have a read here: http://www.autospeed.com/A_107759/cms/article.html http://www.autospeed.com/A_107760/cms/article.html If your bored.... Ian

Could try my QT one..... (I have the QT steering wheel and boss) You know where I live lol. Ian

A disco axle will also fit (straight swap) - unless you use one off a 300Tdi.... If you use a 300Tdi jobbie, you will need to change the diff output flange for a four bolt jobbie (as a 300Tdi Disco uses a 3 bolt arangement with a rubber doughnut) - you should just be able to swap the flange for the one off your current rear diff. The rear damper mount.... instead of having a flat mounting (as per your 200), the axle also incorporates a cup for the rubber bush (bushes are also a slightly different shape). In saying that, if you play around with the rubbers (and washers) you should be able to re-use your dampers (but won't be 100% ideal) Ian

Yes.... One off a 90 will be a straight swap.... One off a 110 (will be a later none Salisbury axle) - will also fit, but you will need to change the spring mounts for the ones off you current axle, and you will need a custom length prop (although a front one off a 200Tdi Defender isn't too far off). For both axles - you will ideally need late spec rear dampers - as the mount on the axle differs from that of your 200Tdi. Ian

HEATED FRONT SCREEN - Post 2002 spec Td5 (as per JST) Item Description 1. Heated front screen RH connector 2. Heated front screen LH connector 3. Heated front screen ECU (behind instrument pack) 4. Heated front screen relay (passenger compartment fuse box) 5. Heated front screen switch The HFS comprises two elements laminated in the windscreen. The elements are connected by bus bars within the screen and therefore the HFS has only one feed and one earth connector. The HFS is controlled by the HFS ECU which determines when HFS operation is permitted. The ECU also has a timer which allows HFS operation for up to 8 minutes. The HFS ECU is located behind the instrument pack, adjacent to the dim/dip relay. The ECU is connected by a multiplug. The ECU receives an ignition feed via the satellite fuse box and an engine running signal from the engine oil pressure switch. A non-latching switch for HFS operation is located in the fascia. The switch has a tell-tale lamp to indicate when the HFS screen is operative. The HFS relay is located in the under seat fuse box and receives a permanent battery voltage supply via fusible link 1 in the under seat fuse box. The relay coil is connected to the HFS ECU and an earth point. When the relay is operated, battery voltage is supplied from the relay, via fuse 25 in the passenger compartment fuse box to the HFS element. When the HFS switch is depressed, a momentary earth path is completed from the HFS ECU, through the switch to earth. This is sensed by the ECU as a request for HFS operation. If the ECU receives an ignition on signal and an oil pressure signal, it allows HFS operation. The ECU provides an output to the coil of the HFS relay. When the coil is energised, the contacts close and battery voltage, via fusible link 1 in the under seat fuse box is supplied to the HFS element, via fuse 25 in the passenger compartment fuse box. The feed is also supplied via a splice joint to the HFS switch to illuminate the tell tale lamp in the switch. The HFS ECU will allow screen operation for up to 8 minutes, after which it removes the feed to the HFS relay coil, which, after the contacts open, removes the supply to the HFS element and simultaneously extinguishing the tell tale lamp in the switch. If, during the timed operation period, the HFS ECU receives an additional request signal from operation of the switch, HFS operation is stopped. When operating, the HFS element draws approximately 25 Amps. To prevent excess drain on the vehicle battery, if the ignition on signal and/or the oil pressure switch (engine running) signal is lost, the HFS ECU de-energises, if already operating, or will not energise the HFS relay. Ian

http://www.silverline4x4.com/4x4/wheels.htm have used them a few times in the past, and always been pleased with prices and service. Ian

http://www.bell-auto-services.co.uk or Allisport matzker also do one, but AFAIK it invalidates the warranty as you need to cut part of the CAN. Ian

True... but your missing the issue of 'time' - which is something I seem to be lacking in large quantities of late. You will be getting a pm shortly Ian

Looking at their website... I think they only do earlier stuff. And not sure if they do custom work. Worth a call though... thinking about it, I think some on here works for Autosparks - hopefully they might see this post. Ian

Apart from Simtek... who else can do late model, custom Land Rover wiring harnesses?? - mainly Td5/Td6 (etc etc) and a few other funky bits and pieces. Cheers Ian

Having driven LR's tracked 110"..... it's not the easiest thing in the world to drive It's impossible to turn unless your actually moving, and even at low speeds it's still blinkin hard!!! I had the pleasure of trying to thread it through the crowds at last years Gaydon show. Ian

Yes and no.... I personnally don't think it will cause a problem, and as mentioned it will actually reduce turbo lag.... But it 'can' reduce the life of the seals in the turbo... due to the difference between the intake and the outlet pressures. Standard turbo's are supposed to be used within certain parameters... so reducing back pressure from standard 'might' take it out of this window. However, if you still have a 90 degree (or thereabouts) bend somewhere near the turbo outlet, back pressure will be similar. I don't understand what you will gain by using the cast elbow further down... I wouldn't bother - I'd just use a nomal 90 degree bend in pipe, rather than trying to attach the cast section. If you wanted to go one further, I'd modify the outlet from the turbo so that it seperates the main outlet from that of the waste gate butterfly. This will reduce the disturbance of the exhaust gas from the turbine wheel - which can occur when the wastegate opens. The waste gate outlet can either be vented straight to atmoshpere under the car (will be quite load unsilenced though) or it can be linked back in further down the exhaust. Ian

Electrical cleaner, or brake cleaner.... If the injector harness is leaking - and has been for a while - you will have to clean it a few times (after replacing the injector harness) before it will stay clean. Ian

If it is oil in the loom, you normally get away with just replacing the injector loom, and just giving the red plug a good clean (usually have to repeat a few times). An injector loom is about £40 and takes an hour (at the most) to change. Is very easy to do yourself. However.... reading this line: One other thing is could be is boost pressure. The Td5 has a boost pressure cut point of about 1.2 bar at ambient temp, above this the ecu will cut the fueling until the pressure drops below that of the limit point. Which would cause the engine to lurch. The Td5 does suffer from seized turbo actuators (or partially seized), which will cause overboost problems... as can a previous owner shortening the actuator arm. The quickest way to find out if this is the cause is to get your 110 plugged into a diagnostic computer and look at the fault codes (over boost will be logged) and check the live data page on a road test. Anywhere near the midlands and I could do that for you Ian

Unless you have a genuine part, late spec heated screen... These only require one earth and one feed (35amp). Both terminals are located in the bottom corners, and it does not have the centre earth point. Ian

They are the same ECU, but have different fuel and variant files (etc) on them to suit either a Disco or a Defender.... and you can't run Disco files when the ECU is in a Defender as you will get a few faults (mainly the temp guage) In a Defender, the speed signal comes from the Speedometer (from the transfer box) as a pulsed signal. In the Disco II, the speed comes from the SLABS ECU - taken from the wheel senors. Ian

Nope.. Same ECU, but different settings.... Also (and more importantly) the speed signal comes from the BCU on a Disco - which isn't fitted to a Defender.... so the Disco cruise control is a No - it won't work. Ian

I'm confused.... I thought you had a Transgender (transit powered defender) not a Td5?? If so, there is no comparison comparing turbo lag between them.... The Puma has a Variable Vain Turbo so will always have less lag, and better bottom end pick up/torque... If you start dumping lots of fuel in at low rpm on a Td5 (to try and reduce lag) you will get quite a bit of smoke (and not actually achieve that much!!) - Simply because the turbo takes longer to start producing boost. Also... lots of black smoke - is simply that, and doesn't really achieve anything - is simply wasted fuel. Also, intercooler wise... yes and no. It is a compromise.... and is massively affected by intercooler design and core type. Typically a larger intercooler will increase lag due to the larger volume that needs to be filled (and a poor core design, or poor intercooler design will increase resistance within the intercooler - thus inducing more lag). However, an large efficient intercooler will be beneficial because it will further reduce intake air temps - which will ultimately lead to more power.... but as mentioned before it is a compromise between lag, air temps, applications etc etc. Another good method is charge cooling esp. for short burst (rather than prolonged running) - but then you get the problem of additional weight/components. Ian