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Niamh

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Everything posted by Niamh

  1. Oh the carp has advantages for the assembler... just not for the poor sod who has to strip it down years later. Niamh
  2. Build date of both discos concerned was '96 & EPC certainly makes no mention of any silicone gasket, 7316 diff gasket is what it tells me . The thing is that diffs are supposed to be bolted on not glued in place Sainsburgers would be a 100 mile round trip... Will common or garden bathroom silicone sealant remover do the job, or is there something special for gaskets? FWIW a polycarbonate rotary brush inb a drill did a fairly good job though getting round the studs was a person I'm not that keen on. Niamh
  3. I'm beginning so suspect Land Rover themselves! That's 2 rear diffs pulled the week and both have the same black silicone gasket Niamh
  4. I tried a gasket scraper, but it didn't do much. Niamh
  5. You could offer me £120 for an old NHW10000 plus assorted hydraulic bits that is sitting in a box at the back of the garage... Niamh.
  6. Came off fine, apart from the fact that some vandal had glued it on with silicone gasket! How does one remove that stuff? Niamh
  7. I remember many years ago working on a small awkward part on a bench grinder- Hmmm I can smell burning flesh... ouch it's my fingertip! No wonder I don't have soft ladylike hands. Niamh
  8. Still tracking the fault The vacuum system seems fine and holds a vacuum with the pump off and the solenoid closed, however anyone know how much of a vacuum if should produce (I have a gauge so can measure it at the actuator. Niamh
  9. Rebuilt Take your chances Niamh
  10. Easier than changing the entire axle I'd say Niamh
  11. Why do you think you need a complete Axle? If it is the diff just replace that with an exchange unit. Niamh
  12. Got the propshaft tool & imperial impact sockets... just hope the nuts aren't siezed on! Niamh
  13. Am I right in thinking that on Disco 1s they are imperial (well US) fixings 3/8" UNF IIRC so Imperial tools
  14. Having been through the system diagnostics they point to the cruise control ECU. Googling suggests that AMR5441 and AMR1173 are actually interchangeable, but can anyone confirm for certain? Niamh
  15. Don't Bearmach to HS standard height springs? Niamh
  16. A second or 2 when the pump is started and the valve closed simultaneously, or a second or 2 if the pump is running and then the valve closed? Niamh
  17. Moving the cable manually it seems free enough if someone has their foot on the pedal to remove the return spring tension. Our problem is we don't know how fast it should operate. A fair leak test should be to switch off the pump but leave the solenoid engaged... the throttle should remain open if there are no leaks, I think. We're down in SW Wales Niamh
  18. OK, the test seems meaningful if one does it with the engine running. The actuator moves slowly and then revs build up as the throttle is actuated. Not that it seems that responsive, it takes 5 - 10 seconds before the throttle seems to actually open at all. Could the Bowden cable have become excessively stiff after several years of no use? Niamh
  19. We've worked through the tests to Test 7C Cruise Control Test.pdf And we're not sure what the Reslt we're looking for means- Cruise Control (Right) Niamh
  20. Assuming 7J rims, 235/70R16 is a usual road fitmeent. You might want to consider an AT tread rather than a road tyre. Niamh
  21. Just buy the relevant length M6 bolts locally. Niamh
  22. I think he means the drag link from the steering box to the LH wheel Niamh
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