Absolutely.
But has anyone found this to happen in real life, or know of another cause for failure; I checked voltage to the switch and switch function on the front one last year, but didn't have the time to investigate further.
Niamh
Last year the front stopped operating now the rear one has stopped too.
Can they suffer from the same dry joint on the controller problem that affects the windows?
Niamh
Me too.
And having just snapped the side of one trying to fit it I was wondering about rubber ones... but no point in ordering from someone without beingg sure it won't be another plastic one.
Niamh
I doubt I'm going to be able to turn it the 90 degree required once it's in place and the sprocket attached even loosely (I'll be using the appropriate tool through the inspection hole to lock the sprocket prior to pulling the old pump.
That's why I want to turn the pump and lock it before fitting IYSWIM
Niamh
I've got a second hand injection pump here that was obviously removed without being locked at the timimg position.
Can I simply tuen it so the timing pin goes in and then lock it prior to fitting? I assume so, but...
Niamh
I'm going to have to actually check that at some point as all the diagnostics in Rave are with the ECU disconnected.
Next time I'm playing with it I'll see what sort of speed I get... I know that once actuated the system holds a vacuum as I swithed off the pump but left the solenoid on.
Niamh
Certainly the paperwork that come with the box from Ashcroft advises this... and has dire warnings about oil cooler and pipes and crud, I took the easy option and went for a new cooler and pipes.
Niamh
Ah, they're not like manifold studs that are screwed in then.
Mind I hope that having fitted the ATB diffs that I'm not going to be working there again... unless we decide to upgrade the fronts as well.
Though some things have to be disassembled for routine maintenance, for example wheel bearings don't last forever.
Niamh