paime
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Posts posted by paime
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After much wiggling and prodding today I think I've found the problem. It looks as though the battery box under the passenger seat was fouling on the chassis bracket. I've managed to move past that now and things are lining up front to back quite nicely with only a couple mm gap between outrigger to bulkhead. The problem I now have is the body is too far over to one side by about 25mm. I can't fix that without taking a corner out of the battery box. Any ideas how to avoid that?
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Checked out the old chassis today and saw that it doesn't have the slots either, rather a single non adjustable hole. Did manage to do much else today other than clear the garage a bit so will try shifting things tomorrow. I need to move forward about 24mm so a bit of movement here and a bit there and I might be able to do it.
Also noticed that I had some bolts producing through the floor pans which were hitting the outrigger and stopping things move forward so I've changed them out.
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Today I'm going to remove the front bulkhead to chassis brackets, keep the outrigger bolts in, remove those m6 bolts then see if I can nudge everything forward. I'm not sure how it's all going to work as the transmission tunnel hole for the gear levers lines up perfectly with the gearbox. If I nudge everything forward then that might not be the case any more. Time will tell!
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9 hours ago, SteveG said:
That front door is gigantic.
For me its the 110 that would offer better practicality, particularly when you see how small the boot is in the 90. Not enough room for a couple of spaniels in there.
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2 hours ago, pete3000 said:
you can adjust the gaps, but it would mean undoing the sill rail rear bolts where the return bracket turns through 90 degrees from the sill rail up to the rear of seatbox area. These are also slotted. However this will change your door gaps so caution required.
I'll take a look at this option. My doors won't even close right now so I think there's quite a bit of fettling to do!
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37 minutes ago, pete3000 said:
Mine are for the front of the seatbox, is yours a Richards Chassis?
I've just realised your seatbox supports are slotted whereas the shielder ones aren't. I think i'm going to have to shift everything forward and then drill new holes for the seatbox bolts.
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Mine is a shielder but also bolts to the front of the seatbox. Am I right in saying there isn't a way to adjust the gap between B post and A post, only make it parallel by playing with the outrigger and chassis brackets?
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Mine has the adjustable rear strip with the tabs on the outside of the tub. I've kept these loose just now to allow movement. I'm not sure how i'm going to get everything to move forward if the front of the seat box is fixed on non-movable mounts. The pic below shows the mounts i'm referring to. They aren't slotted and if i were to shift everything forward then i won't be able to bolt the seatbox onto them.
1 hour ago, pete3000 said:My bulkhead to outrigger gap only has 1 M10/M12? washer in between each side bolt. It was 3 washers on the old chassis. but your pic on page 8 looks like a massive gap.
The gap is still the same and i filled it with washers but got to 5 washers and thought better of it!
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Inching towards completion now - got the ABS sensors in last night and refitted the transmission tunnel, matitng and gear levers which means i now have my interior back. I've also bled the brakes and clutch which, interestingly enough has cured my squeeky clutch pedal. I used one of those one way valve bleeding systems which cost £5 and it was a piece of cake, would definitely recommend it.
I've now got to finish off aligning the body and i've been putting it off because it seems like a nightmare job. The bulkhead is about an inch back from the outriggers which is too far and i think the whole body needs to shift forward by about 10mm. What i'm struggling to understand is how that can happen as the front of the seat box is aligned to the chassis connections and there's no room for adjustment there. Is there a way to adjust the seatbox/floors in relation to the tub and bulkhead i.e. is there a way to alter the distance between A and B posts?
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How do you know where to drill and where to leave alone? Is it solely down to experience or are there some maths and engineering going on? I'm fairly sure if i tried something similar i would have a collapsed sub-frame in the first mile of driving!
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Just found this: https://blackbox-solutions.com/help/SM033.html
Looks like the sensors go to the yellow connection on the black box. I'm assuming right-hand is O/S similar to how the brake lines are labelled.
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On 23/01/2021 at 11:53 PM, landroversforever said:
Where do they plug into the next bit of the loom?
Had a look under the drivers seat and its a bit of a mystery. They are the two middle connections on the black box at the bottom left there which is, I believe, the ABS brain box. It isn't labelled left and right unfortunately. One lead is long and one lead is short and that's about all I have to distinguish between the two.
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On 1/26/2021 at 11:34 AM, Peaklander said:
Just managed to grab an hour rummaging outside and this pic is the one i needed, cheers! I thought i took plenty of photos when i was stripping everything down but now i'm looking back through them i don't think i've been thorough enough in some places. There are some images where i can't even tell which bit of the car i'm looking at!
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I can't get my head round anyone not installing the outer bearing. It seems almost too far fetched to be true in some ways. What would you tighten the stake nut onto? Wouldn't the brake disc just collapse into the caliper as @LiamC says above? Surely it would bind me pull violently left as soon as you got moving.
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I'm still struggling to understand how the wheel came off if the stub axle is still attached. Surely that's either loose wheel nuts or the stake nut coming loose or maybe both.
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20 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Where do they plug into the next bit of the loom?
From what I can see they go into the ECU compartment under the drivers seat. Had manky hands so didn't lift it up to take a look but will do so tomorrow and report back.
In other news, anyone know where this goes?? Looks like a couple of earthing points to me but i'm at a loss.
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In my haste I didn't mark the rear ABS sensors according to which side is which. I've bought new sensors because I got a bit annoyed removing one of the old ones and it got destroyed, how do I tell which sensor is for which wheel? The new sensors have a long wire and a short wire which corresponds to a long and short arrangement on the loom as well.
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Never seen one of these before, looks interesting!
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56 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Won't there be two on the Starter? One from battery and one from the Alternator?
I think you might be right. Found some pics from when i did some 3D modelling and you can just see the alternator creeping into shot with what looks like 2 rather beefy cables attached to its post.
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That's what i initially thought but then i've already allocated a 12v feed to the starter so i'm a touch perplexed. Can't find it referenced on lrworkshop either.
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Given up on alignment for tonight as i wanted to feel like im making progress so started reconnecting looms. Well, that and im still huffing about my expensive brake lines! I took loads of pics when I was disconnecting all the electrics but somehow I dont know where this one goes, any ideas? I've also got a spare earth-strap-looking thing on the O/S side of the gearbox that I can't place.
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3 hours ago, western said:
Exactly what I've done on my 110, bought a pair of custom made hoses from David of Llama4x4. got rid of the silly short rigid pipe & the top bracket that sits under the top swivel pin bolts.
This does make a lot of sense now i come to think about it. Have you got any pics of the setup? How do you keep the flexi away from the tyre on full lock?
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10 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
Project creep is very real. Even worse if you're a perfectionist as everything you take apart then gets fettled before it goes back.
Its been bad enough dealing with just the oily bits. Got the axles, radius arms and trailing arms blasted and painted properly, new bushes and dampers throughout, new zinc and stainless bolt kits, new fuel filter housing, A frame ball joint, swivel balls and kits, swivel housings, all of which wasn't budgeted for. Even had to get those annoying wee brake lines that go from the caliper to the bracket at the end of the flexi hose which are £20 each on a TD5, not that I'm bitter of course...
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Paime's 90 TD5 Chassis Swap
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
It's jacked up at the front by about an inch in that pic but interestingly enough i did have a problem with my bulkhead being too high in comparison to the outriggers when i thought i had things lined up before. I'm not sure how close that seatbox should be to the chassis/chassis bracket there but i'm beginning to suspect it's the source of a few alignment issues i've been having.