hurbie
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Posts posted by hurbie
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32 minutes ago, mart010 said:
Nope don’t understand it yet.
so I’m having a 200tdi Timer Glow Plug and a petrol ignition switch. How correctly do the setup in the series 3?
a petrol switch in a diesel vehicle is not going to work .... make it easy on yourself and buy a diesel switch . no need for a timer relay , any normal big relay will do , they don't need a long time glowing (i never glow mine (unless it's 0 celsius or lower)
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47 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
That just might be ferry prohibitive, but it would be fun to watch.
"Yes sir you want to book a what????? On the Calais to Dover ferry crossing."
Mike
it used to be no problem , but i just read that the "War and Peace show" is cancelled .
held every year in june/july in kent , thousends of military vehicle's on display , including main battle tanks from al over europe ...
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21 minutes ago, Junglie said:
MIne (85) has 3 keys - short one, looks like a fat d or b depending on how you hold it for doors. Longer one with a symmetrical head for the rear door. Has a slightly longer blade I think. Then the ignition key is different again and has a plastic head.
same as on my 1987 3 door 110 , lift-up handle doors .
back door key is the same as the bonnet lock on mine.
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yep , sounds like a bad connection somewhere
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2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
then I cheated and went the route of LGT and forgo the delights of a heater, for now I hasten to add
isn't the heater outlet supposed to be a loop , instead of closing the outlet's ?
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good find , do you know the partnumber , save's people searching in the future ...
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24 minutes ago, muzaz said:
The exhaust system will need replacing or I can keep the existing one ( apart from the down pipe) ?
i would change the exhaust , the 200tdi exhaust is much bigger diameter.
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you can also rewire your fusebox to get the same result , my lighstalk now triggers a relay in the fusebox and using the original wires the relay feeds the lights . for both dip and main beam.
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57 minutes ago, roamingyak said:
Thanks, but I'm not after a UK based company that ships worldwide.
Asking if there are any good suppliers that are based in the EU 🙂why would you go with a EU based company , they order the parts from the same UK firms .... LR direct , and some others handle the import duty's for you ...
i'm based in the netherlands , and order trough LR direct , and that's what i pay , no extra shipping or VAT trouble's . and a lot cheaper as ordering in the netherlands .
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i use this stuff to seal gaps , if you use thicker it will act as padding.
https://shop.deltarubber.co.uk/self-adhesive-expanded-neoprene-sponge-strip.html
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push the most out off the tube with a rag and a long stick , then clean most off it out with more rags and brakecleaner , rebuild axle and change oil after some use ...
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just a quick inbetween question , if you take off the outer skin , what kind of spanner do you need to hold the top bolts , you can get a ratchet with an extension on the inside , but the outside boltheads are very close to the top off the skin , with a folded piece of aluminium in the way for a normal box spanner, or open ended one.
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it looks a bit like a "deutsch dt" connector
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17 years , hows that for a thread revival
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you could try connecting a 12 volt source (extra battery) to the dead battery , and then hook up your smart charger , normally they start charging . you can then remove the extra 12 volt , and let it charge the dead battery .
on my work battery's that had gone down to 12.1 volt are considerd "dead/broken" and don't get warranty ...
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good choice , i use the same and happy with them , however i just discoverd some very fine hairline cracks after 6 years ....
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rotated all the tyres (spare to right rear , right rear to front right etc) and found a almost broken drive member ...
had a good spare around , so fitted that , but the driveshaft is'nt in a very good order , so i have to make some time to fix that as well ...
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last bits in this morning , so she's ready again ...
(all thanks to the wonderfull weather , sunshine and 20 degree))
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in hindsight , the failure wasn't recent , about a month ago i noticed the same noise as when the clutch failed , a short "grinding" of gears (i thought) , before that the clutch was "hopping" when driving real slow , so probebly the springs were gone some time ago ....
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4 hours ago, Peaklander said:
That's a result. Far better than a gearbox failure. However, why has it failed? Can you move the gearbox input shaft?
didn't notice any play in the shaft .
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can't you just operate the clutch pedal , and put a piece of wood between the seat and pedal , this way it has pressure on it while you investigate.
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1 hour ago, muzaz said:
At this point I'm not sure if I'd be better off finding a good used axle
and possible buying someone's trouble ....
just repair it , you know it will be right then ..
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box is out ,
this doesn't look to healthy :
is it supposed to do this :
luckely the engine from the Eurover project has a fairly new clutch in it , so put that in , box is back on .
now i only have to put all the remaining bits back together 🙂
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friend needs some help in scotland
in International Forum
Posted
hello all ,
a good friend of mine is on holiday in scotland , and has just lost it's v-belt (200tdi 110) from the waterpump , does anybody now a parts supplier in the area of Ayr ?