David Sparkes

Your 4wdbits.com converts to http://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ I note the New Zealand location, like yours. Why do you think this is the same organisation as Bolt On Bits, who show a UK base? I don't see any NAS lights in 4wdbits, never mind the plinths, which BOB claim as unique to them. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Bolt-On-Bits-0127...6QQftidZ2QQtZkm Cheers.

It's difficult to see how any box other than the correct Borg Warner can be used as an interim fit, because unlike the preceeding Land Rovers the 38A has the axle differentials on the Left, where as others, RR Classics Defenders, etc, have their differentials on the right. Cheers

These comments "Once running and warmed up .... On acceleration it smokes quite a lot (black smoke)" make me agree with Raceface120. You are getting the smoke and the sluggishness because you are getting the fuel but not enough air. Has anyone checked the actual boost pressure at the inlet manifold? I agree the poor starting could be duff glow plugs, the blocked hoses / lack of boost wouldn't affect the starting. HTH

"Take a piccy that will show us what angle the diff is currently sat at" Probably the best way of doing this is to jack under the RH spring, just high enough to remove the drivers side wheel. Now take a side view of the differential housing, the view that would normally be blocked by the wheel. Include the ground in the picture. What the guys are looking for is whether the nose of the differential (where the propshaft attaches) is pointing at the ground, or up at the gearbox. Lifted as described the axle will be near enough normal ride height. It might be also be useful, if you have the kit, to lift the chassis high enough for both front wheels to leave the ground. The stands will be under the chassis, with the axle hanging as far down as possible. Take another side view of the differential housing through the view normally blocked by the wheel. Again, include some horizontal reference if you can, so they can make a judgement of the angle the diff is currently sat at. Hope This Helps

That's a common indication of air in the cooling system preventing coolant flow into the matrix (because it's full of air). Also preventing coolant circulating around the engine, because a big air bubble is just being squashed under pressure, rather than moving on to be self-bled away, OR coolant has been lost and the system simply doesn't have enough to go round. Not too good I'm afraid.

"Extremely Fragile Instrument - Do Not Tap" Yes, very good :-))

The description includes the comment "Dual connection with one pin higher than the other". I wondered what 'dual connection' meant, but I guess it means there are two contact pads on the base of the unit, each with an electrical circuit via different LEDs to the case, and that the offset pins in the side are just like a normal dual filament bulb, to ensure you can only fit the bulb in the correct orientation to get only 5W on Side (Tail), and 21W on Stop (Brake). Can you light each 'element' under test conditions, with the unit outside the holder? You say the unit is 'case negative' so I assume you do, but worth double checking. HTH

As no-one else has obliged, I thought I'd close the circle and find it myself, via the Tech Archive where there is an agreed link to a very comprehensive article on Pirate 4x4. IMHO this could form the basis of a compulsory test paper for those intending to use the hundreds or thousands of pounds worth of kit they have just bought. Actually, it could be usefully read before spending ANY money, and a refresher taken BEFORE the kit is bolted up. And you are correct, I don't anticipate fitting a winch on my 38A. <grin> As far as this question is concerned, scroll down to the section 'Calculating the force of a recovery operation:" http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/ Cheers.

Well, as no-one else has had a go, I'll use the education of others ... The vehicle is stationary, even if you were using 'drive assist', which I think you were, the vehicle was still stationary. So, at first pull the horse is pulling a deadweight, the drive assist has zero value. I recall a table has been posted, created with the winchers in mind, and possibly now in the Tech Archive, that gives the pull required in all conditions, from clean flat road to steep uphill and floorpan deep in the mire. You start with the vehicle weight, then use several multipliers, the first being less than 1, if the road is flat and smooth (eg, tarmac). Sum the individual answers and there is your 'horsepower', which in that scenario equates to torque at zero rpm, I think. You know the weight of your vehicle, and between you, you can make the best judgement of which multipliers to use. You will find it useful to print the table out if you are going to succumb to the delights of an electric or hydraulic horse. :-)) I'll let someone else find the table, a wincher probably has it bookmarked!! Thanks for the fun BTW.

I have my Holox BT351 paired, registered, bonded, whichever word you choose, via Bluetooth to both my Tablet Laptop and my 'new toy' Smartphone. I had hoped, mainly for the sake of cleverness than for any practical benefit, that when the receiver was sending information out via Bluetooth that it would be received by both the Laptop and the Phone. However, first tests indicate that the receiver will only serve one partner at a time. Would anyone like to say whether this is a natural feature of all Bluetoothed GPS receivers, or just a 'restriction' that affects some of them? My intention is to use the Smartphone when walking on footpaths, and the Laptop when 'navigating' in someone else's car, so you can see the absence of simultaneous operation is not too serious. Second thought, occuring just before I post, if I pair the receiver to the laptop, feeding it into GPS Gate or Xport, could I then re-radiate it to the Smartphone? (Xport is at http://curioustech.home.insightbb.com/xport.html). Being GPS related I wasn't sure whether to post in Getting Out and About, but most of the posts on the first page of GO&A included place names in the title, so I chose International. Cheers.

Which model of Land Rover are you looking at?

In the belief that the original qustion has been answered by at least one example of 3 different solutions, I'll throw in a side note. In the days when effective long distance movement of bulk transport meant using horse drawn canal narrow boats, this business of dirty ropes abrading standing structure was a significant problem. The most common occurance was when the tow rope rubbed against the corner of a bridge over the canal, and the common response was to fix a strip of cast iron to the bridge. Some of these remain in place, and if you use a boat, or walk the canal towpath, it's sobering to see the depth and quantity of the grooves cut by the grit laden ropes. You, or at least I, begin to wonder just how many boat passages it took to do that much damage. Remember, the ropes were natural fibre, not steel or plastic. Occasionally vertical rollers were used, and near Marple there is a horizontal one along the top of a bridge wall, where the rope went over the bridge. This meant it also went across the main road, any traffic on which had to stop while the boats exited the lock!! Truly, a different age.

"As for personal injury, it appears that I have to find a "where there's blame" solicitor......." Count this as a lazy response if you like, but I seem to recall the Law Society, or a similar organisation representing solicitors, can provide lists of legal eagles who specialise in different types of work. So, if you don't get a personal recommendation, start with the Law Society. I'm assuming such lists are free, but some cynics might think that's a dangerous assumption :-)) I'm not sure what the best search terms are, Compensation, possibly, or Personal Injury fits the circumstances better, perhaps. Good Luck

No direct experience with a D2 installation, but from 38A and Volvo experience, there is a thermal switch in the seat, which is supposed to open when the seat gets too hot. It sounds as those these are failing. Get a Dealer quote by all means, but it might be worth making an insurance claim, especially if there is clothing to replace, as well as the seat covering and heater element. I'd say it was an accident, not fair wear and tear, so similar in principle to an underbonnet fire. Is your NCB protected? Good Luck

This IDEA is demonstrated under a 38A axle, but there's nothing to stop it being used (I Think) under any of the LR axles, so I've posted in International. I do worry about it being made for the toy jack shown in the picture, with it's pin of 16mm. Note that it's demonstrated with the car tyres firmly on the ground. My trolley jack dating from 'before 38A' has a pin of 22.5mm. My 'bought for 38A' jack has a pin of 30 mm. http://preview.tinyurl.com/3xfagb As an Ebay advert has a finite life I will copy the pictures here for posterity.

Can your wife not get her licence updated? Long Term that would be the more adaptable solution, whatever her gearbox preference might be. I can't help but think that a big part of the charm of driving a Series motor is knowing what to do with all the gear levers. The direct answer is that I don't know about putting an Auto box between a 200TDi and a Series transfer box. I'd have thought auto to 200TDI would be 'not a problem', it's keeping the Series T box that might be more 'interesting', but I'll wait with interest to see what a Series familiar has to say about that. Cheers.

What you have experienced is the wonder of adaptive fuelling, resulting from closed loop running. Simply, the output of the oxygen or lamba sensors in the exhaust is fed back (the closed loop) to the Engine ECU (not the BECM). The ECU changes the fuelling so the amount of oxygen in the exhaust is 'correct' (as laid down in the fuel map). Thus the fuelling is adapted to changes in the running condition, which could be new sensors (MAF or Oxygen), or changing atmospheric conditions, such that you might experience moving from Aberdeen to the Thames Valley. If you wished to reset the ECU to it's start position for some reason, then you would need a Testbook, or Autologic, or Rovacom, etc, but what you have done is perfectly valid, and the poor running period is reassuring, in that it tells you that your new MAF is giving different (correct) results compared to the old one, thus justifying the spend. Hopefully you will find both better running and increased mpg as a result. Cheers.

Cable Tec will custom make cables, although they will possibly cost more than even a new 'standard' cable. http://www.cable-tec.co.uk/

Paddocks do both http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Axl..._-_Leather.html http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Axl...t/Bailcast.html Note that although the rubber gaiters have the Britpart name, they originate from Bailcast, who do lots of similar split rubber products, such a CV joint boots. I've also seen it is essential to work vaseline (Petroleum Jelly is the cheaper generic product) into the natural leather, to improve it's water resistance. I have read a suggestion to take a pattern from a pair of leather gaiters, then buy cheap leather jackets from Charity shops and cut new gaiters from them. I've never seen it done. I chose to fit the rubber gaiters, but haven't put any mileage on them yet. Cheers.

This is an indirect lead, but try this link http://www.kenner.ca/RoverWeb/mailinglist-...01/01/0001.html note that it goes back to 2003, and that one of the links is dead, BUT you can see Harald Hansen's email so you could try him directly, or join the list and ask. Along the same lines, try contacting StrangeRover from this thread. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/arctic-he...cher-21371.html Cheers.

The diagram Dappe has copied is taken from a Parts Fiche, although it's labelled as the 90, 110, 127 Catalogue in the main menu, it's a fiche when it opens. I've found it on a Classic CD '84 to 89, in the Transfer Box section covering the 90, 100, 127, Transmission Brake, Direct Entry Cable. Note this is different to the rod operated brake. There are two different part numbers for springs (all labelled 2 in the diagram). Look at the Notes on the right, and the Change Points detailed at the bottom. They may help the rest of you decide what is going on, I suspect it's a case of all three springs are not fitted at once. I hope the pdf blows up to a readable size. Cheers Def_84_89_H__brake.pdf

Sorry to keep bobbing up, but ... "The alarm thing is true. If I park next to the house, the wireless internet keeps it awake, and flattens the battery in two days." No, wireless internet (Wi-Fi) is not the cause, the frequencies used are very different. I did write this up in detail on some forum or other, but it seems more than 12 months ago and I can't recall where. Miscellaneous domestic wireless functions are all based around the same frequency, so the 38A Security system could be affected by almost anything that boasts a wireless connection, Weather Stations, Door bells, Baby Monitors, Garage door openers, Driveway gate openers. These don't have to be on your property, they can also be on a neighbours property. The system can also be swamped by strong emissions from industrial sources. My experience was when parking outside Milton Keynes Railway Station. I had to use the key to lock and unlock the car. I changed the receiver and the problem went away. The current part number will be on Landywiki somewhere. http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title...er_Interference "Make sure you get two keys, there are only 4 available, so once you've lost 3 - you are on borrowed time. " The keys are numbered 1 2 3 4, and when new, carried the appropriate label, but this falls off over time. The Handsets also had different colours. Any lost or broken handset can be replaced by it's own number, but the problem was that owners had no idea which Handset they had, and I'm assured that two handset 2s won't work on the same car. In this case the safest advice was to buy a key 3 or 4, as these were not standard issue. For those cars with Memory Seats and Mirrors the standard issue of Handset 1 & 2 were called His and Hers, and had separate memories associated with them, such that the seat and mirrors moved to the correct position for the Handset that was used. The two basic colours were Ash Grey and Black, and it is difficult to say which is which when you only have one key. I have both keys, and have developed a test that enables anyone to establish the colour of the Handset they have. This is written up, with pictures, on Rangie.com http://www.rangie.com/articles_model.php?modelId=2 Look for "P38A Identifying your existing key fob." Some Americans have reported that all keys are now supplied in the same colour, which is no great surprise, considering the car is obsolete, and Ford Accountants have been involved. On mine, I have engraved the number into the Handset case. "Rovacom is great for getting/setting faults. But the new one - Rovacom Lite I believe is locked to a VIN number, so you can't share it amongst your mates." Correct-ish in principle, but not in words. The original Rovacom was a big Tablet style affair, suitable to withstand Trade use. It was augmented by the cheaper Rovacom Lite, just an aluminium Server + a little black box. The Customer provided a laptop PC for the screen and keypad. Aimed at the DIY market, although also used by small Independants. Physically this is more fragile than the Rovacom. The Hardware is obsolete. The software modules were and are the same, and are shared with the latest offering, so are still supported today. There have been several alternative packages brought out, but to skip over a couple and end with the current offering, the Faultmate MSV. This is a single box, fits between the OBDII socket and your PC. It has a plug in Licence Module with 3 identities in it, each of which can be set up in a different style. Joe, Bill, and Fred have shared the cost of the MSV. Joe has bought one module, for the 38A EAS, this can be used on Multiple vehicles, and he intends to buy additional modules later. Bill has bought all the modules for his current 38a, and has saved money by having these licenced to a Single Vevicle. Fred has bought all the Modules for his L332, licenced for Multiple Vehicles. I've made up this example just to give an idea. Note that by buying multiple licence modules, more that three people can share the same Faultmate, although I always warn of the danger of the Faultmate being 40 miles away at your mates house when you NEED it. To read the manufacturers hyperbole go to http://blackbox-solutions.com/docs/faultmate_msv.pdf Some functions have more than one possible module (SRS is an example). To get easy to follow guidance on selecting them, plus guidance on dealing with Blackbox Solutions, read the Rovacom Section on LandyWiki.com from beginning to end. You may have to re-read it, but you may also decide that if getting your head round the content is more than you want to cope with, then it's a cheap lesson learned. Better than buying a car you end up not wanting. http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Main_Page Note that some independant spirits who meet on the Rangerovers.net 38A forum have created some free software that, with the purchase of cable and plugs (and laptop), allows you to interact with the EAS, to the extent of clearing faults and adjusting ride heights. If anyone does buy a 38A as a road + weekend warrior, I suggest you combine the service replacement of the suspension airbags with an upgrade to the longer Arnott GenIII bags. Even with the standard shock absorbers the longer bags enable you to increase the Extended ride height, so improving the Ramp and Breakover angles. I don't see any point of thinking about Megasquirt on this car, unless the technical challenge you want is to match MS into the Security and Automatic Gearbox electronics. HTH

"how 'basic' are basic P38's." Certain > No Traction Control, 2 pin diffs instead of 4 pin rear, no headlight wash/wipe, no sound system Boom box, no CD changer, no navigation system, Alarm receiver prone to interferance, no Cruise Control, no side airbags, no headrest mounted entertainment system, no towbar, no Memory Seats or Mirrors. Possible > No sunshine roof, AC + Heat, but no Climate Control, Cloth seats instead of Leather, manually adjusted seats, no heated seats (even if they are there, they will be broken). And of course, only one Handset (Key Remote Fob); replacements are Dealer only. (Keys without the remote are a straight copy by 'anybody'). Rust? Brake pipes, along the rear axle and against RH chassis rail, about where the B pillar is. Ally corrosion? Bottom edge of lower tailgate. HTH :-)

"Seems that the alarm goes into sleep mode but wakes up whenever other key fobs are around. This wakes up the whole BECM. Over a period of a week or so this flattens their batteries. " IF this is an accurate summary, it's a pity. I say IF, not because I think V8bertha is telling porkies, but because without words from the owners we don't know what the current state of affairs is. Battery Drain can be caused by other faults, not just the most high tech answer that can be thought of. I say it's a pity because the 'BECM awakening' cause and potential cures are well known, so it seems a pity to let the faults persist. The cause is not other fobs, it's interferance from other sources, the most likely of which is Domestic Weather stations with wirelessly connected outside units. Sometimes the external Weather Station can be moved, but otherwise a possible cure is to disconnect the 38A receiver from the aerial, and accept that the 38A Handset will only work in very close proximity to the car. The more expensive but better cure is to upgrade the receiver, but as this costs over £100 a lot of people find it too expensive. They will spend thousands on a winch bumper, plus winch, plus rope, plus rocksliders, etc, but that's another issue. Cheers

mmgemini Other companies you can go to --- for LED light units, or LED bulb replacements to fit inside standard light units? I collected some information from a thread asking about NAS style lights and plinths, were you active in that? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22745