David Sparkes

I can't say I've looked hard for a PDF SIII parts catalogue, however, two suggestions: http://www.bearmach.com/acatalog/index.html This gives you the option of installing a utility on your PC, but there don't appear to be any pictures, and as ever, searching success depends on thinking of the right search terms. I don't know how often the database is updated; I haven't spotted a 'look for updates' link. The same url gives you the option of a PDF catalogue of 'fast moving parts', which may or may not suit your needs. The other option is to buy a CD from Gaydon. These are reduced to about £10.00 this year (60th Anniversary blah blah) although I note they sting you for postage. One of the downsides is deciding which of the parts catalogues you are going to look at, then finding that the part number has been updated, and the old one is no help when looking for prices & supply. Good Luck.

To round off this thread: All are welcome to attend the presentation of charity cheques for the Calendar Girls 2008. This will take place in the Scrutineering Tent at 8pm on Saturday 23rd August, at the Eckington Interclub meeting. The calendar raised £2,400, which will be split between the Air Ambulance and Breast Cancer charities, with a donation to Cam Rescue. The girls would like to thank all who bought a calendar to support these very worthy causes. Peak and Dukeries Eckington Interclub event, should you wish to attend and PERHAPS have your copy signed, is at http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G...amp;A=Y&Z=4 The nearest village is Hundall, between Chesterfield and Sheffield. The Saturday events are CCV & TYRO, the Sunday events are TYRO, RTV, & Night comp, the Monday event is a DAY COMP 01773 785 980 is the event hotline for venues, start times etc. It is always worth ringing to ensure the event is still on, or that the venue has not had to be altered at the last minute. P & D home page is http://www.pandd.org.uk/ My thanks to all, I think £2,400 is a good sum from such a venture. Regards, David.

It means that most of the 38A owners who post on here on other topics are competant enough to look after 38As without screaming for assistance over every little thing. Either they know competant mechanics who will do the job for them (and can afford to pay for the service), or they don't have any hold-ups about reading Workshop Manuals, so can 'fish for themselves', as I saw someone else put it. V8David wrote "Just a quick thought. Load of rubbish really." Yep, on reflection, you got that right. Cheers

As mmgemini's point, not all mechanics are the same. Even though they are based of personal experience, if dantd5 had posted his original comments on the Car Mechanics Magazine forum he would have been slaughtered by the many mechanics who post on there. Conversely, some home mechanics servicing would have got critical comment, if you had seen it being done on 'your' car while in a garage. EG, freeing off sticking brakes by giving the calipers several thumps with a hammer. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26071&hl= By all means complain about specific instances, but don't extend that to everyone who gets paid to pull on a set of overalls every day. Cheers

OK, the home page for the UK Centre is http://www.landrover.co.uk/gb/en/Owners/Le...ersContacts.htm Hopefully the address on there will help, although they may just pass you back to your more local LR office, as already suggested. Good Luck

"Does anyone happen to know ..." No, I don't 'know', but reading a Workshop Manual, found on the web for the cost of a bit of time, makes use of a basic skill accquired many years ago. 9.5mm dia = 4.0kgf/m 11mm dia = 7.0 kgf/m

You refer to a 'Center', that is the American spelling; in the UK it would be 'Centre'. Where are you trying to get in touch with, North America or the UK? I don't have a specific contact point for a Customer Relationship Center, but on the grounds that sneaking around the side may help, I get Publicity Information sent to me from Land Rover UK [email@landrover.rjs0.com], so you could try if they will answer. As you see, that is a UK address. Hope This Helps.

IE7 should not cause a problem. Disco Tony has a point, what size was your file, and what sort of file was it (jpg, gif, etc)? Remember a single file has a maximum size of 1.95MB. To be fair, I'd expect you to get a specific warning if the file was too big, or of a type that isn't allowed, but the obvious possibilities have to be crosssed off. HTH.

I've had that problem before, which Browser are you using? (Make and version).

Well, having 'very recently' (this morning!) skimmed through the WG Armstrong book, it was Armstrong who supplied several ships to the Japanese. Re weekend or not, I'd like to hear if someone local had recently visited both sites, to get a recent report on how much engineering stuff is at each site. (Recent means say within the last 3 to 5 years). I visited Cragside about 12 or more years ago, and was disappointed about how little detail there was about the engineering works. The National Trust seemed to be strong on the 'soft' arts of garden, plants, and house, but if you didn't know how hydraulics worked before you visited you certainly would not be educated while there. The Techie pictures on one of the sites I listed earlier makes it appear they have done a little bit more to cover the engineering aspect of Armstrong's life there. The bottom line here is I don't know how long each visit would take, but this would also be influenced by who in the party wanted to visit what, ie Cragside gardens, the rest of the Castle, etc. I don't know anything about Campsites or B&B, or local Green Lanes.

ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual) off a RAVE CD (downloadable as an image file from Green Oval). Find the number of the Connector to the ECU, then use that number as a Search term in Adobe, and build up a list (with wire colours) in a Spreadsheet. That's the direction, can't help more because you haven't said which year or engine you are struggling with. Thanks for the cross reference Will. Cheers. That's a daft way to ask for assistance from anyone who has enough appreciation of them to take an interest in these vehicles.

Just doing some research on Mike's suggestion, it appears there are two sites that could be combined on one trip; Cragside, and Bamburgh Castle, which apparently contains an Armstrong Museum. From http://www.victorianweb.org/technology/eng.../armstrong.html In later years Armstrong and his wife Margaret lived at Cragside, near Rothbury, Northumberland. For some architecture and garden details see http://www.victorianweb.org/art/architectu...rmanshaw/2.html and http://www.ejr.ndo.co.uk/crag.html For some technical detail see http://www.hevac-heritage.org/items_of_int...de/cragside.htm National Trust page of the Cragside site http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/...ardenandestate/ Bamburgh Castle http://www.theheritagetrail.co.uk/castles/...gh%20castle.htm http://www.bamburghcastle.com/ http://www.bamburghcastle.com/armstrong-museum.html Streetmap http://www.streetmap.co.uk/streetmap.dll?G...amp;A=Y&Z=8 shows the Castle, and you can see Rothley (Cragside) as well, just to give people an idea of location. Cheers

Oh I don't know, from my reading of his life story, 'old man Whitworth' was at the cutting edge of technology, in his day, which is how we got standardised threads and various other innovations. He could be regarded as the Bill Gates of his day, as he certainly didn't miss a Market Opportunity to sell his bright ideas. Cheers. Oops. Edited to say I've just been to pull the book off the shelf, and realised I was thinking of WG Armstrong, a contemporary and rival gun manufacturer.

I don't think there is an online site that gives the first owner. The UK DVLA will give basic colour, BUT it isn't searchable by VIN, only by UK Registration Number. However you can apply to them for the records they hold against that Registration Number, which of course gives you the first Customer. Be aware that these aren't guaranteed 100% accurate, as they are dependant on people giving accurate information to the registration authorities at the time, and on clerical errors when the handwriting was being deciphered. You do need to specify a reason for the data, but they are noticably lax. Just 'thinking of buying ...' seems to do, and 'I've just bought ...' certainly does. "... complete VIN-Information with nearly the complete datasheet of a model, basic color, first dealer, etc. etc." Seems most likely to be 'Gaydon' (BMIHT - British Motor Industry Heritage trust), but while you can apply online, the data is not available like that, you have to pay. Hope That Helps.

Fortunately the Series 3 workshop manual can help. In the Data section (NOT the Brakes section) there is a comprehensive write up on the visible differences between Metric and UNF fittings. The relavant sentances read: "The greatest danger lies with confusion of 10mm and 3/16th UNF (male) pipe nuts used for 3/16th (4.75mm) pipe. The 3/16UNF (male) pipe nut or hose can be screwed into a 10mm port but is very slack and easily stripped. The thread engagement is very weak and cannot provide an adequate seal." I'll attach the relevant two pages, but will just make one observation. When the changeover was 'new', in the '70s, all the differentiation marks, such as the M and the O's were in place. Nowadays some are missing, as it's cheaper to produce items without them. So items bought new today may not conform exactly to the detail in the Manual. In addition, there has been 30 years for a PO, or their Mechanic, to have changed the original with whatever he had to hand. Also, mmgemini wrote "Up to series three will be BSF." I don't think Series 2 stuff used BSF for hydraulic pipe fittings, could you confirm your statement please Mike? Cheers S3_Data__Metric_Fittings.pdf

Really? I hope I haven't taken that quote out of context. However, perhaps you can give some supporting comments, because while we know oils CAN get thicker with heat (cue the transmission Viscous Coupling) my own experience with engine oils leads me to believe they get thinner as the heat rises. They certainly seem to pour more easily during warm weather (say 15C), compared to cold weather (say 0C). You mention "relative viscosity". Relative to what? It's own viscosity at another temperature, or against an external 'reference' viscosity, of another liquid at some specified temperature? Thanks. From another post: "1.How does using the thicker oil effect cold starting performance seen as in winter it can easily get down to minus 10 where we live ?" I don't think this question has been answered. It's not about how to use the engine once it's started, it's about the additional work the starter system has to achieve to turn the engine over with the additional drag of 'cold and thick' oil. Cheers.

On the trail for something else I've noticed these two items. As the Halfords Professional range seem to get good reports I've assumed that discounted prices are A Good Thing, IF you happen to be in the market for a complete set. Professional 150 Piece Socket / Ratchet set was £199.99 now £99.99 127 Piece Aluminium Tool Chest was £149.99, now £99.99 (This doesn't actually say it's from the Professional range). Note the facilities to 'Reserve and Collect' or 'Home / Work Delivery' if suitable for you. HTH

The 'laugh' is that, when you view the Ebay details it has words to the effect that it was 'previously removed to find true value'. If you then do an Advanced Search on Completed Items from seller Gonaf the single return is this vehicle, priced at £100 more (so £2800) and the sale ended 21st April. Draw your own conclusions. It's worth what the Market will pay, not what a replacement would cost to build. Perhaps there are people in the Isle if Wight that will pay for this toy, but I'd say it's a small market for a 'pick-up only' item.

This reads to me as though April 1st came late this year. Thankyou for sharing.

Have you tried asking on a more 'LPG specific' forum? Obviously you may run into flak from trade people, or the LPGA itself, if you so blatantly request a free copy, so you might like to remove the the 'f' word, just say you want to check it complies, etc. http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/ is the one I had in mind. I'm not a regular visitor, so don't have current experience of the site and forum contents, I merely had it booked from several years ago. HTH

Steve_a. I'm a user, not a software engineer. This was available, it works, and from a users point of view has some nice design features . If it offends you for some technical reasons then neither I nor (I suspect) anybody else, will object to you replicating the functionality in a more technically adept package. As a software engineer you clearly get disturbed by software you see as 'suspect'. As a user I get disturbed by software that is not available when I want it. The best (designed and functional) programme in the world is useless if it is not available. This is the same as saying Joe Bloggs sells the best winch at the cheapest price, but he hasn't any in stock, so the only thing pulled is one of these vapour ware creations people keep referring to. Cheers.

Heating a damp area is almost totally pointless, all you end up with is warm damp instead of cold damp. As warm air will hold more moisture than cold air you actually make the damp problem worse. A bog standard domestic Dehumidifier, from the sheds, is the start of the answer. These draw air in the back and blow it out of the front. Mount the dehimidifier on a shelf, as high up the wall as possible. Orientate the D so it is side on to the wall, that way neither the entry or the exit air flow is compromised. The height improves the efficiency, as the air is slightly warmer, and warm air contains more moisture, so more can be extracted. Also the blown air covers a greater volume (than if the unit was floor mounted) which again increases it's effectiveness. Power consumption is probably less than 100W, although I'd estimate that for the first 6 months it will be on 24/7. Obviously insulate the roof, but as far as heating is concerned, I prefer a fan assisted convector heater. Again these are cheap from Argos etc, and again I prefer to wall mount this as I feels this benefits circulating the air. This topic has been covered before, and on every occasion I have contributed I've mention the D word, so I suggest a search on that. Mind you, my earlier contributions mayhave been in other forums, not this one :-) HTH

From http://www.british4x4.nl/TheSpecialist/engine.htm Engine number interpretation - 4 cylinder diesel prefix --cc-- -- type -- -- ratio -- bhp 10J -- 2286 -- na -- -- -- 23:1 -- 59 12J -- 2495 -- na -- -- -- 21:1 -- 67 19J -- 2495 -- turbo -- -- 21:1 -- 85 If you can believe anything you can find on the internet!! Personally, I wonder if the pump will supply too much fuel, even though it has a boost pressure sensor which will detect 'low' pressure. There again, I see Les has practical experience. Cheers.

I'll suggest an alternative which I have found to both work, and have some nice touches in the design. It uses a variation on the expected launch screen, and immediately after the application starts the date is reverted to the current date, thus you are never operating the PC with an incorrect date. I use this with XP, fully updated. M'cat Starter Utility HTH

Pity you didn't say that originally, as it would have saved some of us from wasting our time.