Sigi_H

I just wrote an article about the IoM TT of 1986 including some Bevel adventures. https://www-explorermagazin-de.translate.goog/unitking/islman86.htm?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

Never ever. I can't drive it any more, but there are so many great memories that I'd rather put it in a glass cabinet in the living room. My very first race in Zolder in 1986

I did with my 900SS Beveldrive. I sold al the other bikes but I still have the Ducati

No idea, why the pic isn´t shown solved, thanks to bowie

Two cylinders are enough .... to squeeze fingers MotoMania-900SS.bmp

I have never worked with this topic, but as an electronics engineer I would attach importance to a stabilised voltage. Isn't there a stabiliser in the dashboard? Is it connected to this circuit? I would first feed a defined current into the display to check the gauge and then check the stabiliser if one is involved.

This is indeed the most dangerous situation, when the machanism is switched downways and you slip of the lever. The Jack will work then like a Cuckoo clock which is powered by weight. The weight of the car will power the Jack and the lever will jump up and down like a balance wheel in a watch. Can hurt.

Only for people for whom a car is already too dangerous 😉 If you understand how it really works and keep it clean, then it is a very universal tool.

Thank you all. As you can imagine beeing a patient and having patience are to completely different worlds. Everything is to slow ... Hopefully my brain is still working. I try to figure out some theoretical things. At least it can still speak a little English

Sorry, I suffered a stroke and I am in hospital. This may take a while. The project has to wait.

I removed the bowl completely, made a M8 fixed mounting point and used PG7 cable entries for adjusting. They are perfect for turning and clamping the adjustment screws. The holes for PG7 and the M8 fixpoint had to be widened a bit, thats all.

these are the later ones https://www.louis.de/artikel/led-scheinwerfereinsatz-7-zoll-8720-retro-klassische-reflektoroptik/60900217

Headlights are for Motorbike from a german shop called Louis. Try to find a link.

My original ones (MY83) were closed buckets made of sheet metal. I replaced them completely with motorbike LEDs because the visual impression of the front was closest to the H4s.

I completely agree with Snagger, since I am alone quite often. A winch offers some kind of safety. I used MT tyres for many years, they worked good as well, but I was many years on loud tyres and I really needed them only twice. I now use silent AT tyres and have a winch, which offers the same safety in my eyes, when I am alone. One restriction, however, is that there must be a way of attaching the cable, regardless of whether it is at the front or rear. I now have a ground anchor to attach it in every case.

Just like these safety belt in cars 😉 It would help safety a lot better if there was a sharp blade comming right out of the steering column in every car.

Just brainstorming ... Another idea with a new tank is to solder the connection of the baffles with a tin solder. Only possible with new tanks and the possibility to get inside with a soldering iron good enough or with a small burner. The connection of the baffles will be much stronger then.

Both will interfere with the fuel sender. Since working fuel tanks are no rocket sience ... why not having one made in africa with more solid baffles or no baffles? Shouldn´t be to expensive and can save problems for ever and store more fuel.

there is nothing more durable than a well-functioning temporary solution 👍

I did, but never in Europe. Thats why i´d like to know wheter this is a general problem. It seems not.

Ok, but when I see it right, this does not ssem to be a problem here in Europe?

Just a question. Is it really common, that these fuel tanks get leaky? My original tank went leaky due to rust after 33 years and I had to replace it 3 years ago. I am afraid it was a britpart.

In old age, people do not regret what they have done, but what they have NOT done 😉

Kreem is a really thick coating, that avoids vibrations of baffles as well. This could avoid teared of spot welds anyway. But of course this will be a test. A plastic tank works for sure, but isn´t it smaller?

If you fail to get a good tank consider to seal the inside with a coating, that is used for rusted motorcycle tanks like Kreem for example. Derusted fueltanks for old motorcycles can be coated inside with a kind of fuelresistant quite thick plastic or rubber material. Maybe that solves your problem.