Sigi_H

Thats why I prefer RS485 over CAN I try to make drawings, but its a bit to early. So i apply to the imagination of everybody 😁 main goal is to have an overview to all by yourself and use a lot less cableing

This will be a thread for developing principles of universal electrics for old cars. In my eyes there are two options. Exactly original or really modern. I decided for modern. I already did some brainwork on this idea and will report it here in order to be pointet to my wrong thinkings and getting new ideas. My main motives are: Everybody should be able to make it. Installation should be easy and straightforward All parts should be easy to replace anywhere, even in foreign countries Affordable parts and work Ok, since I am an electronics engineer, I am not afraid about things like that. But on the other hand, thats why I don`t like to much electronics in cars, because I know: The best engineer is without a chance if he doesn`t know which software is in these small black beetles with lots of legs. On the other hand, I know that this will be easy to manage for everybody with little help. Lets start. 1. The center of all should be an Microcontroller Arduino Mega 2560 Why? Arduino programming is easy to learn even for beginners. The Mega 2560 has plenty of Input/Output-Pins in order to connect all dashboard and steering column switches. It can connect a RS485 Bus-System as well. Almost nothing has to be soldered. The Arduino is really cheap and can be hold as spare part. We can develop the code and different subroutines together. 2. Bus-System RS485 Why? CAN is normally used in cars for bus systems. Very stable, but very difficult to program. RS485 Modbus is used in harsh environments not only in industry but also in domestic electrical systems. There are many components that are suitable for use in cars. 3. Power units front and rear. Why? I`d like to use identical power units (interchangeability) in front and rear of the car. It receives the RS485 commands from the Arduino and translates them to relay signals, which actuate the loads. All relays are standard automotive relays in order to get them all over the world. A power unit consists of the relay box and electronics for receiving RS485. The RS485 receiver can have Inputs as well. I.e. for fuel tank capacity. The relay box can be something like that The receicer electronics can be something like that to be placed in the relay box 4. Instruments are realiced with a Madman Why Everybody can decide individually, which instruments to use. The Madman can be completely separate from all the other cabeling and shows many of parameters, including a alarm systen, when any parameter is out of the programable window. All these ideas end up in the idea to use as less cables and connectors as possible. The connectors in car electrics are mostly only used for easy manufacturing in the industry, but will never be opened again in the live of the car. My idea is to save them all and solder all the loads directly to the small harnesses. I`d like to leave the cables a bit longer, for beeing able to cut them if necessary and resolder them. This will be a lot cheaper and saver than tons of connectors which will never be opened again. The relay boxes with fuses will save a lot of cabeling and connecting. There will be no more central fuse box, but only large main fuses on the battery to connect the power boxes and automotive fuses for each relay in the power boxes. Keep in mind, a fuse does never protect the load, but the cabeling. The load is normaly gone anyway, when the fuse blows. Cableing will therefore be reduced to a power line to front and rear and a Bus line to front and rear. Small harnesses will connect the power boxes to the loads. Feel free to share your ideas and suggestions

I will and I welcome help, since this is not a small development. But universal and usable for any old car. All old dashbord switches and steering column switches will be used. It doesn`t matter, how inputs on the Arduino are triggered. Any kind of switch can be used for any funktion. When the project is started I`ll make a new thread. I`d like to use a lot of component from China. The prize will be a little less than a complete harness and the effort to put it all in the car will be a lot less than a complete harness. So far my ideas and hopes 🤭

don`t underestimate yourself. Arduini is quite easy and everybody can program it. Most of the work is mechanical (how to connect the stepper to the speedo). I am even planning to make new electrics for the 110 There has been 2 options. 1. as original as possible 2. Completely modern with a bus system I decided for the second and an Arduino as center. There will be a RS485 Bus to the front and to the rear. Front receiver and rear receiver will be identical with relays and their own fuses on it for each electric load. This means in deed 4 relays for 4 indicators and separate relays for each light. But the great advantage is: No cabling for fuses and only a small harnes for front and rear. There will only be a power line and a bus line to the front and to the rear. Until now it is only in my head, but I know it will be necessary soon.

I allways had the idea to use a small Arduino and a stepper motor on the speedo to adjust different tyre diametrs for the speedo. Between 255/16 MTs in summer and Hakapellitta 235/16 in winter was a difference of 8%. No more cable and no different gears for the speedo drive in the LT230. Only the TD5 electronic pick up, an Arduino and a stepper motor on the rear of the speedo. Everything else is software. I never did it unfortunately. I only trust selfmade electronics 🤣 https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-nano-motor-carrier

My first idea was wheelbearings too. Is it possible that MOT stopped further checking, when it turned out, that brakes where bad? Thats not unusal in my country.

A rubber hose doesn´t 😉 Any solution has to be routed and connected very carefully and good.

This leak is to big for any approaches to retighten. New gasket and new bolts! As mentioned check the head carefully for cracks.

@reb78you can route along the rocker cover on the injection side or even a longer path along the wing. Not beautiful but possible

This pipe is used for the short cooling circuit completing the circle between cylinderhead, waterpump and heater rad. This means, there is always water pumped independent from the thermostat. The heater rad will always become hot, thats why heating is not controlled hydraulicaly, but with a flap in the rad and fan box. It is a pipe, because it can use the hot path between cylinderhead and turbo. (200Tdi) If you do not use that path, a rubber hose can be used. It is just like all the other cooling hoses then.

I understand that this is tempting. I would try it too, but without loosening the bolts and tightening them again. In any case, you should have a new gasket and new bolts ready. there's a good chance that it won't work

Why not use different paths? It doesn´t need to be exactly the same. The pipe can be straight at the rear end, or only slightly bent, if you adjust the hose. You can also use a well-laid steel braided hose over the entire length.

Some years ago I bought a TD5 front axle body for 150 € and built a completely new one with Ashcroft Diff Lock and stronger components (Tibus shafts) for my 83 Oneten. Then axle swap. Everything is very fine since 150000km. I hope the front is now as strong as my Salysbury in the rear. Older complete Front axles aren´t that expensive, will cost more, but save time. I´d think about a replacement, because everything I read ... the LR solution is dangerous.

No ... I don´t like dogs 😁

Picture please?

for a car which is out of production 🤭

That's what I suspected. The LT77 was even in the Jaguar E Type. Anyway it is weird not to construct blind holes at this place 😁

There are drillings with thread at the side of older LT77. The british engineer decided to drill through completely and tap it. A blind hole was to easy 😄 I had to close them with short bolts. No idea, whats normaly bolted there. Maybe some different leverage for Diff Lock and low range

First of all I recommend 5 (better 10) cans of brake cleaner and a hard brush and another session under the car. You will be really dirty. When all is oilfree you can start to locate a possible leak after a testdrive. Otherwise you will find it only by accident. Wading plugs are allready mentioned and the holes at the gearboxes are for a holder to make mounting easier. There seem to be no missing bolts. If there is comming oil from the front wading plug: Front crank seal. Oil from the rear wading plug: Rear oil seal or clutch Slave cylinder (when clutch reservoir is running empty, looks like oil, but is clutch fluid) Oil from between the gearboxes: LT230 Intermediate shaft

I have been dealing with this issue since I had a new mesh installed in my original radiator. Before that I had a Britpart cooler with an aluminium mesh. I noticed that everyone could tell me which coolant was original, but nobody knew why and nobody could say anything about the material mix. So it was all just parroting from books without any basic knowledge. The most neutral is certainly ethylene glycol, but unfortunately without corrosion protection. I used it often in the lab for cooling, but only for short time usage.

Then a 20A SSR is quite the right choice. If you care about the connections and the mounting place, this will work safely

I guess, the original heater is from copper and soldered Any other things I can imagine is only the thermostat.

these are the infos, i´d like to have. Thanks

SSR is more relyable, but selfmade cables and connectors for the original socket maybe not. I found only one in car relay style https://www.hoelzle.ch/shop/products/halbleiter-relais-ssr-1224v-10a-ssr311 but very expensive. I´d recommend a mechanical one and find the real reason for failures. Bad quality? Vibrations?

I like it simple as well, but I also like to understand technical principles. Electrochemical corrosion is for sure something to understand for a Land Rover owner. Not only on the bodywork.