Sigi_H

M10x1 is very often used with brake callipers and connections. What do we learn from it? You never have enough tools 😁

I wouldn´t galvanize old parts with doubled layers. Corrosion will come from the inside then.

In my opinion, the Autospark wiring harnesses are ok, but not really good. There are only a few copper strands in the cables, which makes them rigid and prone to breakage. No idea at what time this happens. No idea if this is really relevant. I would still seal each cable end separately (with grease or wax) to prevent moisture creeping under the insulation. For your information:

Once I used a small USB Cam on a swan neck holder with a notebook to visualize the things under the hood or on axles while driving. Cheap way to see a lot. Fix the Cam with cable ties at different places and you will find or exclude it.

These are the squezing screws, securing the switch Once I had to repair the switch. I turned the contact for the starter 180°. As you can see, the contact obviously was eaten from a spark each time I started

Would you advise to take the windscreen frame of, if you have to work on the upper bulkhead anyway? To me it looks like that.

Just for your interest. To avoid a central fuse box at all:

Just keep in mind. Some Bulbs are connected to ground, others to plus (important for LED direction). An exeption is charge controlling. If you replace it with a LED your generator will quit working. The regulator needs the current through the bulb for pre-magnetizing the rotor. Through a LED there is not enough current supplied. The light will come off, as soon as the generator can magnetize itsself. Its necessary to bypass the LED with a resistor.

Imagine which forces are applied when cornering. I believe two bearings are better, because steering becomes more sensitive. Tapped bearings can take a lot in radial direction. But most important is correct clearence. Thats best for longevity. Otherwise vertical slams will destroy the surfaces.

when the ball is drilled out you can apply force, it is sticked straight in. The barrel is gone anyway.

My opinion is, that this old trucks are harmonizing with galvanized surfaces very well. Even my front winch bumper is not painted and the rear cross member of the chassis is visible. Together with blank aluminium parts it looks pretty good. Here in the forum there was a thread about bulkheads. There is one picture with a unpainted galvanized one. 👍 I will do the same, when necessary. I "borrowed" the pic

My MY´83 has galvanized cappings and they still look fine. There is only litle rust in the inside corners. Best is, that electrochemical potential of zinc is almost the same as aluminium. No separation necessary. I didn´t even paint my new galvanized chassis.

In my eyes the real question about chlutches is the quality of the plate spring. I believe the linings of all brands are ok. The spring is responsible for the amount of pressure in the clutch. I almost always heard about damaged springs, but never from a worn out lining. I had a bad spring in a Britpart HD after 80000 km. After that I found in the Internet, that this problem seems to be quite common. They become lame and it can be real quick.

everything, but never Britpart HD

The same with boost pressure. Higher pressure makes lower EGT

If the master is to be replaced consider a Dorman conversion: https://heiderei-ch.translate.goog/Kupplungshydraulik.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

my 200Tdi will start down to 0°C without any glowing. It was converted from a V8 to a 200Tdi many years ago. I switch the glow plugs by hand, when they are needed. Especially when really cold I do as well and leave them on or switch them on, when in low revs. Makes the engine run smother an produces a better exhaust gas quality. Modern Diesel cars even switch glow plugs on in normal running conditions in order to get better exhaus gas quality.

Voltage divider and if necessary Z-Diodes can be put to the breakout board together with el. noise protection

In my eyes there should be no need to solder anything. And I think it will be possible. Coils in the supply line and capacitors to ground can be enough and should hopefully be. Voltage regulaters are already on the boards

Yes, but 99% of it are no problem. I repeat, this is not time critical. A simple watchdog can solve all problems.

A very informative article, but you shouldn't let it scare you. Many things (such as soldering, size of soldering surfaces) only concern series production and are completely uninteresting for diy. The article provides a good theoretical basis, but has little to do with diy practice. So: don't let it scare you. In my experience not. Inside the circuit almost no transients are created. We will not have any time critical procedures. Most problems are from I/O lines in my experience. They can be avoided reliably using optocouplers and L/C combinations generously

you're absolutely right, but it's not that difficult again. Since supply of the micro is 5V or 3.3V it is easy to keep most away from the micro with a good stabilisation of the supply voltage. Most really bad spikes come from I/O lines. Take optocoupler, wherever possible. Use a lot of L/C combinations and feed through capacitors. Put the micro in a sheet metal box to keep away magnetic influences. Very important is to avoid spikes where they are created. Put diodes to every relay or inductive load. If you have a diesel without high voltage ignition it is half of it. The Diesel eliminates worst problems with spikes. But use the methods anyway, because there will be gasoline engines standing beside you at the trafic light.

perfect 👍 ... sorry for removing one letter 😉

thanks a lot. Thats a better place. I found, there are nice breakout boards with screw terminals for the ESP32 as well. It is getting more and more likeable ☺️

Sounds pretty good to me