Sigi_H

Just a supplement. I was on my way to visit Scotland. In their shop (which was really hard to find) I met two girls and a guy. My main goal in Scotland was to visit Islay and the distilleries there. So we started a smaltalk about whisky. I wanted to go to Speyside as well and the guy told me, he likes the Speyside whiskys a lot. The two girls in the office had a lot of fun, when I said that I prefer the Islay whiskys, because the Speyside are for girls 😊

No experience with that bulkhead, but I have been in the office in Liverpool and I really liked it. They don´t have a classical shop, but only a office to trade with parts. I´d really recommend them, they are competent and helpful

In German we say: "The shoemaker has the worst shoes" and "if you know how to do it right, you can do it wrong."

👍

The el. brake booster seems to be pretty interesting as a clutch booster (operated by hand at the gear shift leaver) as well.

Long time ago I used EBC racing pads on my bike. The effect was like throwing an anchor compared to normal pads. But a very big disadvantage was, they have been worse like normal pads as long they where cold. This made them not usable for public trafic. No idea whether this is still the case, but worth getting more information.

Servus nach Bayreuth vom Regensburger aus Zürich. Ich würde auch Turner empfehlen.

also check whether the manifold is still flat

buy some manifold nuts and studs too

beliefe the leak is here

https://www.lrworkshop.com is always a good first look. Watch Diagrams.

I second that and have the same. But in the meantime I recognise the hills and know how to drive there. The gauge is now to look good at the ice cream parlor 😇

I find mine really useful and use it routinely. For prolonged runs up hills, with a heavy load in the back or going down the motorway, it's a useful reading to tell you when to back off a bit to a safer temperature. There can be good reasons to tune an engine to have excesive temps in extreme situations. Then of course it is good to see EGT always. But normally people like to have their tuning always in a save mode. In first mode it is best to have an EGT gauge with acoustic alarm. No need to watch it permanentely

No, because there is no rust or anything else in it, that can act like a sponge. The water of the acid will be boiled out, but dry remains stay there and are not surely covered by zinc. Moisture will produce acid again with time.

Just an idea: Normally when parts are hot dip galvanised they go into an acid bath, to remove all the rust. It is bad to galvanise old parts, because acid can stay trapped inside where double layers with rust and dirt are. The acid will be sucked up and stays there. But if (like in your case) the skin was removed and all possible traps for acid are cleared, things become absolutely different. It becomes a way to remove rust from parts (what you call the frame) which are inside and can´t normally be reached. So remove and renew the skin where it is needed. Clean everything superficially (no complete rust removal needed) and remove anything that can act like a sponge. Then nothing speaks against galvanising and your work will pay of the most.

I can see. Thanks. Keep up the good work.

what do you mean with "inner structure"? Pics?

I built this one quite easy: https://www-explorermagazin-de.translate.goog/bauberi/defaus21.htm?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

In another Forum a rally driver told me that he has killed some R380, but never a LT77 Just to make it more complicated 😉

Well yes but I would still like to get to that position. I wanted to say, that the position of the gauge becomes temporary and secondary if you see it like that.

No matter what. Since both engines are good it is better to focus on a good body work and chassis!

Normaly EGT is only interesting while tuning the engine. As soon as you know how the engine and temps behaves it becomes useles.

This is a pneumativ pipe, but they break from vibrations. A lot better is to use PA pipes instead of PU. You will get it at the pneumatic dealer as well. Normaly it is used for center greasing of trucks. I used PA pipes very succesful for leak pipes at the injectors and fuel pipes.

I used a flight instrument without any additional electronics and drilled the hole in the bottom plate of the turbo. (200Tdi) It was M10x1, because I already had it 😁 Unfortunately I cant´t translate my site with any webservice. No idea why. https://heiderei.ch/Abgastemperatur.html

The reason is: There are cheaper ways to prevent the rad from fresh air 😊