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Many of the UK Defenders you see on the Instagram accounts of US outfitters have no export marker (including my old one!). I think it's either laziness, ignorance or arrogance. If you watch the YT videos of those who scour the UK hoovering up Defenders, you'll see how gung ho it can be
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300TDI engine code starting with S16L
Will@LRW replied to defender99's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I've seen a few UK vehicles with the prefix. Some military Defenders/Wolfs have them. The style of stamping in your photo is identical to the factory stamping. It might be a genuine recon unit? "Service exchange"? -
Correct MOT description for 110 SW
Will@LRW replied to 1750gtv's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
When you check on the MOT history page, it should say "LAND ROVER DEFENDER". The model is "DEFENDER" (DVSA) and is different than what's on the V5C (DVLA), which would be listed as something more specific. For that age and type of vehicle, assuming it's not County or XS, that would be "DEFENDER 110 TD5". This is commonly wrong for ex-military vehicles and imports. For reference, a full list of the DVLA models is here: https://defender.lrworkshop.com/models -
The square faced, shorter flange with the spacer is the earlier style. The longer one with the round face is a later style. The short nose and long nose have different flanges regardless. Whether their lengths are similar, I don't know off hand. Additionally, there are two styles of seal for the long nose diff which match to the mudshield and not the flange. The thinner style is the later one. I wrote a guide with pictures that may help: https://www.lrworkshop.com/axles-differentials/pinion-flange-pinion-oil-seals
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I hadn't heard of them but checking a James Taylor book, he has a paragraph about them. 200 made he reckons
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This is a proper shame for all involved. They were my go-to retailer. Knowing that I could buy genuine parts and they would arrive in a sealed Land Rover bag was worth the extra price. Or ordering Bearmach and not getting Britpart 😄. They'd also helped me many times with parts damaged in transit, or finding obsolete parts elsewhere. Sounds like PCI DSS compliance caught them out. Their shop software was 5 years after end of life and PHP version 3 years, which shows a lack of investment. It got them in the end. Can't even begin to imagine where £200k went on a shop migration. Although i've also seen £2million spent in a year on web development that produced nothing but redundancies. There's some other parts retailers with even older websites....
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LEZ (the old one not the new ULEZ)
Will@LRW replied to CwazyWabbit's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I get a copy of the ULEZ status of all vehicles every 6 months or so for my site, and it seems like there's little rhyme or reason why specific Defenders might be able to avoid the charge. Many are station wagons (SALLDHM/SALLDVB/SALLDWB) but there's also many of every other type of body, hard tops, double cabs, utility wagons, 130 crew cabs. There's also 300Tdis, Td5s, 2.4 and 2.2 Tdcis. In total there's about 2,500 Defenders in the UK that are ULEZ compliant in the eyes of TFL. From an 8% sample of these vehicles, about 48% are recorded on the V5C as "Light 4x4 Utility", 25% as "Estate" and 27% are miscellaneous. Most compliant Defenders seem to be allocated by the system somehow, and less than a hundred are "exempt", which I assume means the owner has applied for exemption... There seems to also be a disproportionate amount of newly registered Defenders given a compliant status (e.g. imports or demobbed Wolfs, not "new" Defenders). Anecdotally, imported ROW 2.4 and 2.2 Tdci Pumas (no DPF) seem to get given a compliant status more than most, although it's not a given. I guess that unless recorded as "exempt", the status of a vehicle could be retroactively changed at any moment...? Some of this data may be skewed due to private plates moving from compliant vehicles to Defenders and TFL not keeping track of it. I've combined all this together to put a filter on my site for finding Defenders for sale that are ULEZ compatible (at least the number plate is). It's another potential route - hope it helps someone 👍. -
V8i Electrical Reference Library LRL0190ENG
Will@LRW replied to shanecl's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
I bought a loom which had glass fuses, with the intention of trying to document a connector library, but was never able to identify which engine it had and I haven't been near the loom for the past 2 years. I photographed it and it's available here, although I presume pre-91 so not so helpful for you @Troll Hunter If anyone has any ideas what its spec/engine was i'd be grateful: https://www.lrworkshop.com/wiring-looms/ninety-oneten-1983-1989/bulkhead-loom -
V8i Electrical Reference Library LRL0190ENG
Will@LRW replied to shanecl's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Hi Shane. Here you go: https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-1998-v8i -
That does seem to be quite a different colour. I was using these vehicles below as a reference, which have "Oxford Blue Micatallic" listed in their build spec. In these photos at least, it looks similar to Oslo, hence my suggestion 👍. Seems to be around 2000MY.
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Oxford Blue LRC602 is a potential. It looks similar to Oslo
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300Tdi 'no notch' head gaskets
Will@LRW replied to rednaxela's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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This tyre exploded of its own accord when I was working in Malawi. The car hadn't been used that day, had been parked in the sun and exploded around lunchtime. Twas quite a bang and luckily no-one was around! I still carry a spare around as it feels right, although never had a puncture (yet) in the UK; at one point had 7 punctures in 8 months overseas, but that was mostly due to old and worn tyres.
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Loss of power, no smoke, turbo spins up
Will@LRW replied to KenyaDefense's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Check the black adjuster nut on the throttle cable to the rear of the FIP has all the slack taken out -
new rear main seal fitted and leaking
Will@LRW replied to trickydicky's topic in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Ideally you would leave it 24 hours to settle onto the crank before starting the engine, which can account for even good quality seals leaking This and a few other of Mike's videos around the same time are a good exploration of the issues with the crank seal.