rope runner

Hi im guessing this is probably EFI as you havent said . I have had this a couple of times with v8s when they have only been run for a couple of minutes and not reached running temp the prob could be the plugs flooded up .Take them out and give them a good clean and dry out.

Hopefully by fitting the complete arms the axle end bushes being bigger i might not have to change them so often

No the bushes are wider at the axle end as well . Thats the next job on the list to fab the fixings that end

Hi the bush is made of rubber and it is fixed but is very flexable ,i clamped the bush in a vice as tight as i could and marked its position in relation to the vice .I then measured its movement up and down and it flexed 24 inches up and 24 inches down from horizontal before it started to twist in the vice if i could have clamped it tighter im sure it would have flexed some more . I originally thought the same ,that it would be to rigid and was going to see if poly bushes were available to allow more flex , but for now i think i will stick with the original bushes and see how it goes . Aparrently some of the safari racers are now useing these arms on there racers . cheers Richard

Hi im doing this conversion on my build at moment . length from centre of rear hole in centre of bush to centre of front bush is 39.5 inches. Have added some pictures of mine which is a rangie chasis .My mounts do cover where the normal gearbox mounting bolt holes are though .Hope this helps

Had this problem once before ,all that stops the pedal comming right up is a little piece off plastic which has snaped off when you get the new one you will see what i mean . There was nothing wrong with the hydraulics on the one i replaced , just good old landrover build quality . if it had been mine and and not a customers i would have just made a little bracket up to hold the pedal down in its normal position

Not sure if yours has but some of RRC 3.9 s had a fuel inertia cut off switch under the passenger seat . These have a button to reset them . Or perhaps getting it wet may have killed it

Number 21 is the n/s rear caliper 22 = o/s rear caliper 23 = n/s front front flexi 24=o/s front front flexi 25=n/s front rear flexi 26=o/s front rear flexi

If this is only happening in "D" when stopped it could be a wire shorting to earth in "D" when stopped with the handbrake on the engine will tip slightly under the load and perhaps the oil light wire is shorting to earth . Try connecting a 12v light bulb between battery + and oil pressure switch then run the engine and see if the ight goes out if it does it sounds like the problem is in the wiring

Try useing angle grinder or something like a dremil grinder and grind the housing away down the side of the bolts untill you get to the bolt . This will realease some of the housings grip on the bolts also the build up of heat helps as well . try not to get too close to the head though . You will then still have the full length of the bolts to grip on to get them out. Another option might be to use a centre punch on the housing down the sides of the bolts this sometimes spreads the housing enough to realease it .

HI the transfer box you've got is a schuler ferguson . It has got a viscous coupling inside the housing between the handbrake drum and the main transfer box housing . I had the same problem with one a few years ago ,i think i welded some planet gears inside which gave it permanent difflock