bm52

i have spend many an hour browsing the Tech Archive. some very good stuff in there. has all helped me learn about landies over the last couple of years. the topics have saved my preverbial bacon on a number of occaisions..... thanks to all who have contributed to the Archive.

atten Les thanks again. last weekend i put on a re-con steering box on my 90 as well as the drop arm etc. Rave helped but yoru descriptions and photos are great. they really help you see the changes. not sure i would have tried to change the steering box if i had'nt seen your thread. I also re-read your wheel bearing change as my o/s/r was grumbling and vibrating. thanks for all the effort you put into the "how do's" cheers BM52

i read, i listened, i cleaned, i learnt ta muchly

I bought my 90 300tdi because i wanted the fun of mechanics [i know it sounds mad..] off road experience, a simple motor to tinker on and something to fettle and make better. i chose one in good mechanical condition but a bit tatty around the edges. in the 2 1/2 years i have had it it has never let me down and nothing has gone wrong, just service and age related replacements. it's a '95 with only 75k on it. no real service history and i can only assume the mileage is correct. it drives and pulls very smoothly. as i said i bought it to enjoy both the mechanic [think hobby] and the complete difference from a normal car/truck. i would not have bought this one if it was my only car - i would have bought a newer td5, as new as i could afford. my mileage is fairly low so my 'hack' is a FL1 TD4 auto. best of both worlds and both were brilliant in the snow.... heed the advice and think long and hard and take your time. cheers

all done - no issues at all, followed your advice and Les's instruction. i was going to disconnect the hose but i found that the bracket had already been 'cut' so i loosened the locknut and just hung it all out of the way. the only problem i had was a three hand one. i just could'nt get the circlip on and keep the shaft pulled out so i employed my son to hold the bolt in the end of the shaft and pull slightly and the clip then went on. looks like it was the inner race making the noise, it was greased but the track was showing signs of pitting, i assume that was the noise. oh - Les. after reading your how to do it; I kept reminding myself of your phrase "clean it cleaner than a clean thing" that has been going round and round in my head all bl**dy day !! not sure if my 90 has ever been clean in it's life and defenders are not naturally clean but at least one little bit is now.! anyway job done with help from a great forum. cheers

thanks for all the advice and the shortcut. i'll start early tomorrow - in reality that's going ti be about 9. hopefully finish by noon? probably famous last works when i did the rear bearings it was quite straight forward, i just took my time. the only delay was a damaged brake pipe so i had to wait a day or so for a replacement. cheers

Hi on Sunday i'm going to change my droning o/s front wheel bearing and it's the first time for me doing this job. can you advise if i need a seal/gasket between the flange and the hub. also - do you realy need to remove brake pipe from the caliper or can i keep the pipe attached and 'hang' the caliper out of the way? i've got the timken bearings and inner oil seal already. it's on a 1995 300 tdi. thanks in advance bm52

What - "Most electricals are happy underwater................" i know what you mean - just the way you phrased it ! made me read it twice.

thanks Nic i am very interested. at present i need steering pump and got to sort a problem with the f/o/s hub before i can drive it that far. any idea on his cost? he seems ideal, have you used him before? cheers

thanks for the YRM solutions site all i need now is someone to cut/weld them on for me. cheers

thanks for the advice regards

thanks for the replies. I've read Les Henson's Tech item on how to change the box but do you think it is feasible for an average home mechanic - i have all the tools he lists in the thread ..... i am also limited on time. do you think it could be changed in a morning? thanks

can anyone help with the above and costs. judging from what i have read it looks like it is better to get one with a drop arm already attached. thanks

Hi searched and searched and can't find an answer on this one from my perspective, so a little help please. the bulkhead on my 90 shows the start of a hole in the o/s top corner under the windscreen and half way down the door pillar. can anyone advise whether they can be 'fixed' and whether any body shop can do the repairs or do i need to send it to a Landy specialist? can anyone recommend somewhere in/near West Kent [sevenoaks/Tunbridge Wells] area. thanks ps - i think welding is one step too far for me, never tried tho!

last tank was mixed driving and only 25 today i did a long round trip and did 40mpg i think it is auto and short trips that kill the mpg in the main......

how do and welcome. try this link: http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=13&Itemid=29

mine flies along, even from cold. suggest you forget the redex and just use premium diesel, probably cheaper in the long run and it has a higher cetane value. i have also blocked the vacumn pipe to the egr - stops it working, clean the egr and don't bother with a by-pass kit IMHO and i have fitted a synergy2 - big difference all the above has transformed the drive with good mpg on run, typical mid to upper 20's on short town runs. anyway - the above has worked for me.

mine is still under a warranty so all i will do for the moment to take off the hose and if it is clogged give it a good clean. once the warranty runs out [in 9 months] i'll probably go for a by-pass thingy. have you read this : http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75serv.htm#ss it's worth a read. hope it helps.

IMHO i find that strange i have had many cars with CC from several manufacturers, petrol, diesel, manual, auto. i swear by CC, wish my FL had but i mainly use it for local runs. for long runs my wife's car has CC - we use that one. i have driven in europe many times and really like CC. I admit it is not often you can use it on the M25 but there are many roads where you can. never found the MPG sufferes, mind use i have had 3 galaxy's 2 diesel and one the 2.3 which was bad news on mpg however you drove it.

i knew it took a while to warm up which partly explains why the mpg is less on my fairly short journeys in this cold weather. i have also switched to premium fuel [eg BP Ultimate], not the standard derv, and i think the higher cetene levels have helped improve mpg and made it smoother. i have also disabled the egr, only by blocking off the vacumn pipe, still it has made it pick up better. i think the mpg has climbed from top 20's to lower 30's. i'll fill up over the weekend and check the maths then!

not sure about mine but i think it is only top 20's i think the cold weather is partly to blame and i have been 'playing' in the snow. my annual mileage is only about 6k so i won't be a good test on this tho! i have only had mine a few months, i was hoping for at least middle 30's. think i must have a heavy right foot

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i have 235/85/16 bfg at's - never got stuck yet.........apart from driver error

i have had many many cars of all types and drive train types, manuals, autos, semi-autos etc etc. overall i would always choose and auto. i have a defender [manual] - love it, glad it's a manual my wife has a saab [auto] - would'nt have it any other way, cruise with the roof down car. on saturday i am picking up a td4 auto as the general run around do anything go anywhere car - auto is the way forward. when you tow you want control and ease of driving = auto is the sensible choice in my opinion.

brilliant respone - and a point very subtly made.