Mossberg

Well my setup is similar but smaller and is using the aldi battery charger. I have it on the 3.8a setting with the snowflake symbol. It bubbles away nicely! All I can say is what a brilliant process. The first part I tried it on was a crusty (and I mean crusty) hub. I put the hub in for two x 10 hour stints (I turned it off overnight). I took it out tonight to give it a clean up with a wire brush before putting it back in the tank and to be honest I don't think I need too. I was amazed when I could see the steel showing as I brushed it. The surface that joins the wheel has come up clean and smooth. The back is very pitted apart from the surface that mates to the brake disc which is smooth and clean. One great part of the process is how it gets into the places you could not reach with wire brush/wheel/flap disk. This is after I have wire brushed it. I will get a photo of the back tomorrow. The swivel housing is currently in there bubbling away. I have taken photos of it before I have put it in so I will be able to show before and after photos. I wish I had one of the big blue barrels as I can see this being a useful process.

Thanks folk's, this is really good info. I think I will be doing quite a bit of this (I have lots of rust) so I will look to get a decent setup. I will also take in your hints and tips so I can get the right techniques for our land rover based parts.

Well, I tried the old battery in parallel trick, and it worked. I can't believe how quick it started. Lots of bubbles within a minute and a layer of dirty foam in under an hour. I am trying it on a hub, which is the crustiest of crusty things.i have had it running for 10 hours today and will start it again in the morning. I will be interested to see how this turns out. If it can deal with this I am sure it could deal with most things.

Many thanks for that, I have an old battery that I can use so that may be a way forward for now.

Poo, not got one of those!

I have the phone charger on standby, but thought it may be a bit low on power. I have one of the cheap Aldi chargers, but not sure if this will work due to the internal electricary! The power tool charger will be being binned if its not used, so I can dedicate it to this task if it will work.

I am looking to do some electrolysis rust removal and need a power supply. I know the old style car battery chargers are the go-to supply but before I look for one I wondered if I had something already that I could use. I have old phone chargers, rechargeable torch chargers, etc but I thought these may be too small. I also have an old stick welder but I am assuming this is too big. I was just about to throw out an old battery drill. This is an old (20 years) cheap unit. Would this charger be suitable as a power source? Obviously the batteries are duff so I my thoughts would be to utilise an old battery to attach the lead to. I assume that there could be some circuitry to stop the charger when full so would this stop the power when used in this situation? Your thoughts please guys as I really would like to get this started (I want to try to de-crust my swivel housing). Thanks as always. Mick

Thanks Western - I have checked on lock both ways and it is clear by about 1/2" or more. I presume this will be enough. I have made the pipes from cunifer with brass fittings as I want to prevent corrosion. Can these be left bare or should I put something on them? The flexible hoses are standard so have steel ends. I have Lanoguard/Lanoguard grease, copper slip, standard grease etc if one of these would be suitable?

Many thanks Snagger. I remade the first pipe. I managed to make a former out of an old sliding door runner.

Fantastic, thanks for that. I will do the other side now.

Thanks guys, that's encouraging. However, I decided to make some blank ends for putting on the pipe to cap it off when the end will be open. On close inspection the flare is slightly off centre. My lack of experience means I cannot say if this is within tolerance- what do you think? Obviously with it being brakes I don't want to have pipes that are not going to be fully affective!!

So, my first attempt at a brake pipe. Could you guys have a look and give me your thoughts before I remake (if required) and then attempt the other side. I have shown on full lock. Many thanks. Mick

Many thanks again. I am trying to put things in bags and lable them as I go. Great comment about putting bolts back as you go along, it will save on bags and stop me misplacing them. I will look at genuine swivel balls, but unfortunately I think cost may determine my choice. I did ask at the suppliers about replacing the seals in the kit for genuine and they said they could do but they have never had an issue themselves (they have a workshop on site).

Hi Soutie, I do have someone I can call on, but I don't want to use up all my favours. If I have issues I can give him a call. Hopefully I would like to get involved in some local groups and through that local enthusiasts that are ready to help. I can then return favours and learn as I do so.

Thanks folks, if I fitted them I would look at the galvanised ones, but these are £150 without brackets! I don't want to be spending that money on things that are not really needed, and in fact could be more of a pain when working on the truck. Decision made - they are not going on.

Many thanks Uninformed, you obviously have a great deal of knowledge and I appreciate the help given by you, western, etc. I was hoping for someone to give me a part number so I could get it on order, but you have highlighted that it is not quite that simple. Whilst this does not help me get the part on order, at least it has stopped me getting the wrong part on order which is more important. I have been watching the Britanica and Trailer fitters videos and they are very helpful. It is a little difficult for me to relate some of the work due to my lack of experience with spanners, but I am hoping, with a bit of hands on time, things will become clearer as I go along. I have a Haynes and a workshop manual on my phone but unfortunately my PC is on the blink as I usually try to print off the relevant pages. I will update the trials and tribulations as I go along. Thanks again. Mick

Well at the moment it's not getting a lot of use. I would like to do a bit of laneing in the future. It's more a recreational vehicle more than anything.

https://www.normandyfasteners.co.uk/category/rivet-nuts/page/3/

As my replacement of my wheel bearing has escalated somewhat, I want your opinion of brake shields. Same they needed? Are they useful? Do they work. They are not currently fitted so I would have to buy them together with any brackets. I don't want to go to the expense of parts if they don't really do anything, or even worse the are a hindrance. I welcome the knowledge of your folks experience. Thanks for your help. Mick.

@uninformedfrom the photos you can see and the info regarding 10 spline drive shaft, can you identify which type of swivel I have. I have decided to go a bit further and do the swivel housings too. I have looked to purchase them but I am so unsure as to which to order. Being a bitsa, I just don't have the experience to say "I need this kit" I wasn't going to do these yet, even though they need doing, due to my lack of experience. I don't want to get myself into something I can't get out of!!! As always any help is greatly appreciated.

Hex rivets would definitely difficult to use as you would have to file the correct shape. I have only ever used them when I have had sheet metal laser cut. I used to call rivnuts "nutserts" though there are many names for them. There is a type that we called "euroserts". These had a thick flanged head (I think the m8 had a 1.6mm thick flange). They were quite strong and I used them in many applications. They were also splined for extra grip. Occasionally we would also weld this flange to the surrounding material. This minimised the chance of spinning. You can also get them that are blind and this would stop contamination from underneath, but would retain anything from above, including water. I am thinking along similar lines for my defender - similar to you for maintenance, but also to add extra storage. I was thinking of making a storage compartment for tools etc. My fuel tank is under the seat. Good luck with it. Mick

This is view of the swivel housing. Can you tell which type this is?

Thanks Uninformed. I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge. Would these normally be fitted with a press without any heating or cooling? I may be able to get a friend to press it in for me. That is interesting about the defender and the discovery axle. I am sorry but I don't know the difference between the top bushes. Is there a visible difference?

Hi Western. I have ordered the stub axle kit today. The guy from Buckley Brothers (the parts supplier I use) looked through the different ones and said its the only one with that groove for the lock washers. He said the earlier discos- 89 to 93. I think that kit has a bush rather than a bearing. Can that be fitted on the bench or does it need a press (as I don't have one). Thanks for your help so far pal. Mick

The drive flange is its own piece but I believe it is thicker than the later ones so that part of the drive shaft must be longer to. I know that with alloys you either need wheel spacers or the plastic cap over the end shaft pokes through the centre of the wheel.