Mossberg

Thanks Eightpot. Not sure of where it was before I got it but I agree with how the axles look. The chassis doesn't look as bad as the axles thankfully, but still work to do on it. The truck was one of the cheapest I could get and I think every panel is dented. But it's a 300tdi and I enjoy the drive. I am slowly doing repairs but most of the body will stay similar to how it is now - its an anti theft device! BTW, it cost me 5.4k - overpriced, but aren't they all?

Following on from my thread of caliper removal, today I took off the left hand front caliper. It unbolt and the pipe unscrewed - what a relief. However, on taking the hub off I looked at the stub axle and my thoughts are it would be worth changing it. Where the actual bearings are seems OK, but the area between the bearings and the area where the oil seal fits look a bit worse for wear (well corrosion). I presume you guys would recommend changing it. The hub looks a bit more serviceable as the bearings seem to be a good fit in there. It looks to have a bit of corrosion between the bearings but I can't see that being a cause for concern. Again I would appreciate the knowledge of your experience as to if this is OK. Regarding the stub axle, this I believe is from a 10 spline discovery. The stub axle has a groove cut into it (like a keyway). Does anyone know the correct part number for this stub axle kit as I can't use a chassis number for reference. Thanks as always for your help. Mick

I have ordered one of the flaring tools. I did borrow one from my friend but its one of the pointed clamp type, so decided to bite the bullet. I took the other caliper off today. What a difference - put the socket on and with a 2ft bar, straight off. The brake pipe came undone and it also looks like the nipple would have been serviceable. This is a photo of the nipple on the caliper I had to cut off. The nipple is bottom left, disguised with rust.

Hi Peaklander, thanks the response. Good call on the import duty, never thought of that! I agree about the coolant temperature issue with a 300tdi which is why have suggested this one as it goes to the block (or wherever you fix it) rather than the coolant. I also agree with the coolant level alarms for the 300tdi. I have one made using a range rover cap. I believe this has already saved my bacon, so definitely worth doing for me.

Well I have eventually got the front caliper off so very shortly I will be fitting the new ones and piping it in. So I now have to make the pipes. I want to make them to last so I presume cunifer (knife?) And brass fittings. Unfortunately the pipes that came off are not suitable to copy, so has anyone got a good photo of the pipe fitted so that I can copy it. Also I don't have any of the dust shields fitted. What are your opinions on fitting them or leaving them off. I don't want to get some if they don't really do anything. My truck gets minimal use if that makes a difference.

I have always fancied one of the engine block temperature sensors. Has anyone ever tried one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Transmission-temp-52mm-gauge-visual-audible-overheating-alarm-/313571828559?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0

Thanks Western, and the other contributers to this thread. I really appreciate your input To think this all started as I needed to change a wheel bearing. On inspection it was free running but looked slightly discoloured. I possibly may have got away with just repacking it with grease, but I don't have the experience to make that call so a new one will be fitted. The brake caliper looked like it wasn't far from the end of its life so perhaps its good that it will get done now. I just hope the new one goes on better than the old one came off. Now I just have to learn how to make brake pipes and then to bleed brakes. Every day's a school day - well, when you have a Defender.

Thanks Western, thats what I was going to do but then I noted the one that was in it was the opposite way around. It did still have grease in it but not very much. I have absolutely packed the bearing with grease, I don't think I could get any more in! Can you overpack the bearing? I will put some grease in the hub between the two bearings - Britanica Mike recommends to fill thus to 75% as apparently if its packed full it can overheat.

Thanks Western. That looks like the issue. I did look at ordering both types but I thought I was going over the top. I will pick some up tomorrow. One more thing, which way does the seal fit into the hub? Does the single lip face towards the axle or towards the wheel? I thought it was toward the axle but the one I have just taken out was toward the wheel. As always, any help is appreciated.

Well, I have managed to get them out. I had to go and get another extractor set. This time I went for the Toolstation brand. I drilled the bolt at 5mm dia to virtually length of the thread. I then drilled it bigger to 1/4" to about 2/3 of the thread. I was hoping this would relieve some pressure on the actual thread of the bolt. Applied some heat though could not do too much due to the lump I was heating. Fitted the nut extractor and used my 700mm bar and it turned the bolt (thank feck). Only problem now is the thread on the new bolts is different to what came out - oh joy!

Well, not going too well at the moment. I cut the brake caliper to get better access to the back of the bolt. My thoughts were the threaded part was the part I couldn't access. So heated up the rear part on the swivel housing. Not got to red or anything but hoped it may be OK. Knocked on the nut extractor. 700mm breaker bar and I could feel the crack - unfortunately the crack was the nut extractor!! Any ideas?

Are the lidl Plasma cutters any good - will the cut 6mm mild steel. I need to mitre a load of 6mm thick angle iron and this would be ideal if they work.

Many thanks Steve. I will get one on order tomorrow if I can't find one local. I also need to grab some pipe and fittings. I can see me having an interesting weekend.

Many thanks folks. I will try this over the weekend and let you know how I get on. If anyone knows the thread size of the caliper bolts then please let me know and I will try to source one tomorrow.

Does anyone know the thread size of the brake caliper bolts. I have a feeling that if I manage to get these out they may benefit from having a tap through them. Many thanks. Mick

I have also thought of this, but those bolts look as bad. That would definitely be worth doing if you can get to the back of the bolt . Do you know if the hole that the caliper bolts go into is straight through or blind?

Thanks Eightpot, shared experience is exactly what I need. Got the knock on nut removers- the screwfix Erbaur ones as they were local for me to collect. Picked up the mapp gas at the same time and my torch should be ready for collection before 5. The bolts look quite bad and I did think about what would be the next step. I did think I may have to remove the swivel housing so I have tried the fixings and they do move. I will add an update to let you kind folks know how I have faired. My fingers are well and truly crossed! M

Looking good. Let's hope they are a decent quality.

I have new calipers to fit so hopefully I won't have to worry about the seals.

Yep, used a 12mm 12 point, hammered on but no joy. I could see there was not really a lot of shape to it and I presume someone has tried before. I will get a set of the nut removers tomorrow and see how I go on. Would anyone recommend using heat?

I am trying to remove my brake caliper so that I can replace my wheel bearing. This is on an old "bitsa" defender and I believe the axle (front) is a 10 spline from a 200tdi disco. This has the hub locking washer with the tab that goes in a slot in the stub axle, rather than the flat on one side - I an not sure if this indicates the age. I need to remove the caliper but the bolts have rounded and I am struggling to remove them. They look like they have been fitted since Adam was a lad. Obviously I don't want to snap the bolt in there so I am looking at suggestions at how to attempt this. I am hoping to pick up some of the damaged nut extractors tomorrow from screwfix. I am also hoping to have some mapp gas in the next couple of days. I am also looking to change the calipers and discs at the same time. Hopefully your own experiences on this could help me from cocking this up as I have very limited experience. Thanks as always for your help. Mick

Many thanks folks, I will look for some Goodrich ones. One more question, do the braided hoses make a difference? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make the right choices but can't afford to squander my cash (as then I can't afford to do the next bit!!

Many thanks, I think I will try to go for brass where I can (I am always cautious of stainless binding). I will look into the braided hoses. I did consider britpart as its about £25 for a set, but people have raised issues with these - was this in the past or is it ongoing?

Guys this is great info many thanks. There are lots of the "in situe" pipe flaring tools on the bay, are they all pretty much the same? (they certainly look it) Regarding the fittings, would you recommend steel, stainless or brass?