Mossberg

I don't think standard WD40 is a lanolin product. I just did a search and it shows a WD40 product with some lanolin, but the couple of reviews I read said it was naff and nothing like the proper lanolin stuff! I would like to see some long term reviews of lanolin products. On Defender2 a well respected corrosion guy, Zagato, mentioned it wasn't a great product and some reference to it being like glue(?) He said there had been discussions about it on social media but I can't find them. If anyone knows where to find such posts, please let me know so I can read them. All the reviews I have found about Lanoguard seem to be people saying how good it was as it is easy to apply, but I would like to see some reviews from people that have been using it for a few years. I have done my chassis with Lanoguard and I can confirm it's easy to apply and gives the clear coat I want (I want to see the chassis so I can monitor it rather than cover in a layer where I can't see what is happening). Unfortunately I now have doubt in my mind as to how good it will be. I don't want to keep recoating with Lanoguard if it's going to fail!

Cackshifter, Snagger Thanks for your response. I will give them some time before worrying too much. I would not have worried about this if it wasn't for the fact I did this work myself, and as I am new to spanner work, I am looking for problems. This is why the voice of experience is invaluable - and as such, thanks to you folks that are so helpful to the likes of me!!

I took it out for a short drive today to test the brakes. The pedal was firm and it stopped so I decided to take it on the road. I slowly built up speed before hitting the brakes. It stopped well without pulling so I was trying to get it to lock up. So on pushing hard I got a rear wheel to lock. It was the rear left. I tried again and the same. Whilst doing this the truck did not pull, but I don't know if this is normal. What are your guys thoughts?

I measured up what came of my existing and replacement axle, and although the hubs look slightly different, they are the same dimensionally as each other.

The great thing about electrolysis is it only takes away the rust and leaves the Good steel - especially important with things like hubs where you have the seat for the bearings. And it's easy, I just put a lot more effort in than is strictly necessary. If you haven't tried then it's easy enough for you to do out of curiosity as I am sure you will have the gear to do it. I didn't know that about the arms and I would have considered doing that. The new arms cost me £25 so it's not that big of a deal and it also allowed me to clean them before I do the swap. I will also do the bushes before I start so hopefully cut down on the time the truck is on stands as I am getting a bit fed up with the time it's off the road - but that's because it's not my daily driver. I finished painting them yesterday. Two coats of Bonda rust primer and then a light top coat more to colour them. To be honest I don't really think they need anything above a corrosion prevention spray really, but my logic is that the less rusty parts there are then the more likely I am to see and deal with rust in more important areas- which for me is the 30 year old chassis.

If you have tons of stuff muddy, and if you have room, get yourself a 200ltr drum and an old style battery charger. This is a better addiction than sticking pins in yourself!!

You know your addicted when you are looking for stuff to clean!

I have been so impressed with electrolysis, its rust removal is fantastic. You still need to put some effort in, but you can see the results - I would never get that with a wire brush in a grinder. As they had been painted over the rust, the paint comes off with the rust. I can only hope my painting technique does the clean steel justice.

Well I picked up some hockey sticks and have given them a coat of electrolysis. I have taken the bushes out and spayed them with WD40 until my new tin of Bonda rust primer is delivered. I think I am becoming a bit of a electrolysis addict!

Thanks Snagger. I will do all the bushes. I was surprised at how easy they were to get out and I think only about £3 each so as you say, worth doing as a set. When you check your axle case look carefully at the welded brackets. Mine were in a bad state and I didn't realise just how bad until I took it off. I spray painted the calipers with the lidl high temperature paint. Apparently you should bake the paint on after application but I don't have the facility to do that. I don't really expect it to last but it may just keep the rust off for a short while. (I also need to remember to take the masking tape off the pistons before fitting the pads!)

Thanks muddy. I have also read the thread on Defender2 and apparently the axle cases that have failed have mig welded flange sections with no reports of friction welded ones failing. From the look of the new case it is friction welded.

Anderzander, Snagger, Thanks for the replies. I had the old brake pipes to copy so tried to copy those and to be honest I am happy with the outcome. I have actually just painted the rear calipers. I wasn't going to as I have painted the front ones and that was scraping off even before fitting. I cleaned them with brake cleaner first but did not abraid them, so perhaps that was the issue. The new rear calipers looked a golden colour, but I think this is only a tinted lacquer or something. Anyway, cleaned, a abraided, cleaned again then spayed with lidl's own two fo £5 high temperature spray paint in mat black!! I will see which lasts the best, but they would have rusted anyway and I only used half a tin, so nothing lost. I will let them dry overnight before refitting. Due to the real s**t state of the old axle case I have decided to replace the front axle case too. I have picked one up for £100 and it has already been refurbished. It has a number on it that is written in dots. Is there any way of checking this number against those that are the dodgy batch as I don't want to use a duff case. I was told the case was from a 300tdi so it should not be one off the duff ones, but no harm in checking. I have also picked up a couple of the wider radius arms that I am currently cleaning up. I have just removed the bushes from one of them as they were way past best, but the others look OK. Is it best to replace all four? I don't want to replace for the sake of it but also don't want to go against best practice.

It's taken some time, but then I wasn't in a hurry. I have cleaned everything up using electrolysis and painted it with Bonda Rust Primer and then a top coat. This is a bit of a refurb on a budget - time I have, cash is in shorter supply!! New brakes and discs, new A frame ball joint, new fixings and brake pipes (made myself), but everything else is cleaned and tarted up. Even the springs have been cleaned and painted.

One question, do these brake shields look right? The just seem a bit far from the disc.

Just a note on the seals. Apparently the one I got, FTC5268, superseded FTC0951, so now fitted. Fitted the hubs and brakes, fitted the brake pies, I just need the pads to finish it off.

Feck! Can anyone explain the difference between the stub axle oil seals. I have purchased some as I am doing an axle refurb and I have found the ones on my existing and donor axles are both different to the ones I have just purchased. The ones I have just purchased are FTC5268. The ones from my existing axle were FTC0951. This is a 10 spline axle. The ones from my donor axle were IN53275. - I am assuming this was a 24 spline axle. The problem is you never know if the ones you are taking out are the correct ones anyway!! The axle I have just taken off did seem to have a bit of oil in the hubs - but is this because of the incorrect seal or was it just warn? Some photos showing the differences. One side, then the other.

Thanks for the heads up, but the axle case is now fitted. I will check it tomorrow but the stub axles look very similar. I can always fit the old stub axles as they look OK, it's just that I have cleaned up the others. I have also measured up the hubs. Although they are different the measurements of the bearing seat are within 0.4mm, which may be machine tolerances. I checked the stub and hub as I wanted to use the ones from the replacement as it gave me time to refurb them. Unfortunately I haven't been able to finish as I forgot to order the stub axle seals!!

Thanks Bowie, I will do the best I can to check. I thought it looked quite clean but then I wouldn't know what to look for!!

Well, I got the diff out of the old axle and would appreciate your wisdom regarding the state of it, and suggestions as to if I should fit the diff to the axle case before installing, or fit the axle case bare then fit the diff after? My thoughts are fit the diff first, but I welcome your advice. Some photos of the diff - it's a 10 spline!

Well I eventually took the old axle casing off today. I think I made the right decision to replace it! The hole in the diff pan was just a stain with a pin prick hole in it - I didn't even know it was there!

That's a good idea. A good coat on the discs as they are always going rusty - can't understand why no-one has thought of that before!

Interesting to know people have had the cases galvanised before. We're they difficult to clean the threads after? I am a big believer in galvanising where it can be done without creating problems. If I hadn't just painted my axle casing i would be having it to the galvanisers to work their magic!!

I thought of galvanising but was worried that the sealing faces may end up with an uneven coating on it. Galvanising can be a bit of a lottery with the quality of finish. I am not sure it will be an issue or not. You will also have to retap the holes and certainly the diff case studs if you are leaving those on. For the cost of galvanising I think it would be worth it if it wasn't for the points noted above. I think painting it with good quality paint and then coating with a good corrosion inhibitor should be viable - but I think reapplying the inhibitor on a regular basis is important. I have actually considered a putting ends in the bump stop plates and filling it with grease. The shock and spring mounts will definitely getting a good coating!

I have noticed the size of the brakes on some of the modern high powered cars. They are certainly big and I am sure they will have a great deal of stopping power with the tyre/road surface/ABS combination. Regarding ABS, I don't think I would have the skill level to replicate that. To be honest I try to drive to road conditions and avoid the requirement to stomp on the brakes. When I do have to brake hard I tend to curse myself for driving like a d**k, or curse others for their lack of awareness/ignorance. I will have a look at the brakes on the big SUVs, but to be honest I never look at them as an off road vehicle, even though they may be capable.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of a thread with lots of images of a bulkhead being stripped down and repaired? I am sure I have seen one but I have searched on the net and a number of forums and can't find it. The thread I am thinking of had lots of photos but the person doing it had stripped a lot of the front vent panel off and the internal strengthening parts were shown. I will be repairing mine at sometime in the future and I think understanding how it's put together will help. I think it shows spot weld positions etc, so was quite useful. If anyone can provide a link that would be very helpful. Many thanks. Mick