Mossberg

I measured up yesterday. My existing socket is about 45mm deep. I measured from the inner face of the nut to the outer end of the drive shaft needing 60mm.

Can I ask you experienced folk your opinion of rock/tree sliders. I am fabing some up for myself that will mainly be to protect the truck from people bashing the sides (and fitting a side step to). However I also thought they may be useful as side impact protection. I have a 90 with the tank under the seat, but its diesel so not some movie explosion waiting to happen. I actually think a higher (as in higher up the door) level of side protection would be useful, but then the Defender ain't exactly got Euro protection standard written all over it!! Whilst I have no real experience of off-roading, I can understand what folks are staying regarding weight. I can see weight being detrimental to most things - starting off, slowing down (especially in an emergency), road holding, getting bogged down in softer ground etc, etc. Does having additional weight actually have any benefits? I would have thought one of the main things to look at with how we are experiencing weather changes is good reliable wading kit. Also perhaps good lighting and warning lamps. The rest I would have thought was what you carry with you, and of course good comms kit. As I said, I am no off roader, so I am watching this with interest.

Many thanks folks, I appreciate your replies. Can I ask, do you guys use dial gauges and if so, on what tasks?

Thanks Western. I really appreciate the time you take replying to my questions. It's reassuring that others have had similar issues and with slight mods everything has worked. I didn't think there would be an issue but thought I would ask. Thanks again. Mick

Hi Mike, I have considered that. I have also considered splitting and extending the socket. I will see if there are any viable ones out there, then if not I will get out the grinder and welder.

Hi Steve, it's the initial tightening prior to backing off where I feel the box spanner is a bit loose. Also you get a torque to work to and I am just not good at guesstimating torque! With my little experience I just don't want to cock anything up. Hopefully as I gain experience I will also gain confidence.

Well I started the re assembly yesterday but rain stopped play. I am finding the current weather a bit frustrating to say the least. Another question for you good folks. I have fitted new brake calipers and vented discs where the originals were standard. I fitted the hubs, as in Britanica Mike and the Trailer fitters videos. Spun them and they were free all be it with a slight resistance. However, I then fitted the calipers and tried spinning the hub again - wtf, would not do a full rotation! Where the wheel studs go through the hub one of these was catching the caliper - only just but still catching. I ended up taking a couple of mm of this particular location and I am sure this will have no detrimental affect on strength, but what clearance would you expect to the caliper? Obviously I don't want to use the truck if this is dangerous but I don't have the experience to know. Also, just a note on the bolts holding the lower bearing pin to the swivel housing. These are M8 and the ones that came out had a 13mm head. Apparently these have been revised and the new version has a 10mm flanged head - so a bit of a change there!

I have a 52mm socket for the bearings on the axle on my defender, but it has the 10 spline drive shafts and the thick drive flanges and the socket is not deep enough to reach the nuts. I have been using one of the cheap box spanners but I am not a fan. Can anyone with the same axle arrangement recommend a socket that is deep enough and hopefully provide a link. Some of the ones on ebay look deeper than others so emailed sellers for dimensions but non replied. Thanks for your help. Mick

Well a couple of things; Firstly there are a few things on my land rover that I cant believe they thought were a good idea. I am sure some things were done on cost or ease of production rather than what is best for the application - though to be fair I would not put brake disk shields in that category. It is difficult to categorise a "one part suits all" brake disk shield when you look at a standard road vehicle and a vehicle that is used off road. Secondly, many people improve their vehicles. These improvements may be because:- they look better, work better, adapt the vehicle for its owners use, make the vehicle easier to service, make the vehicle longer lasting etc. Please don't think I am saying you are wrong, just making an observation. With regards my particular situation - I don't have brake shields in the first place so it is not a case of leave them off or put them back. To fit them I would need to purchase them and the brackets which would probably cost in the region of £200 - that would probably cover the cost of four sets of discs. When the opinion of vehicle users on here is split 50/50, that cost influenced my decision. I am also trying to avoid any mud traps. I have noted that people recommend keeping the rear shields, and when it comes to servicing the rear of the truck, they will be staying on (or replaced if required). Thanks for your comment. I read people's opinions and then make a judgement based on my personal situation/vehicle use. Its good to get individual opinions to allow me to make that judgement. ATB Mick

Many thanks. I have ordered the bolts from a local parts supplier using the part numbers. With this being steering I thought it best to use the correct gear. I was hoping have it back together today but the seal retaining rings and bolts did not arrive in time for me to collect. Typically today was dry so it is likely to be Thursday before its suitable to attempt it.

Thanks for that Uninformed, I do agree regarding quality. When I was working I used to order direct from fastener companies as we knew the kit was good. I used to avoid the likes of screwfix and the ductwork suppliers we used. The only bolts going back are from the parts supplier, though I can only hope these are of decent quality. The second swivel housing got the electrolysis treatment yesterday/today and I managed to get the broken steering lock stop bolt out far easier than anticipated, thanks to the mapp gas. The first coat of Bonda prime has been applied. Loving the electrolysis! Mick

Thanks gents. I have ordered the bolts via the part numbers. I have lots of nuts and bolts in many sizes and I was hoping I had something I could use, but mine tend to be 8.8 grade unless they are socket screws which tend to be 10.9 As the use of the fixings is in what must be described as a critical area, I thought it important that I used the correct parts.

As this job has progressed to my replacing the swivels, I have decided to fit new bolts wherever possible. I need to know the strength of the bolts on the Railko pin on top of the swivel housing - these are M10x35 bolts but don't know the strength. The bottom bearing pin has 2x M8x30 bolts, but again I don't know the strength. Just for reference the swivel to axle bolts are M10x32 bi-hex, grade 12.9 (14mm bi-hex socket or ring spanner). The stub axle to swivel housing are M12x25 set screws, grade 10.9 I am not too worried about the fixings holding the seal on as it is not really under any strain, however when I purchased my swivel kits I was advised they were M6x12 - the ones that came out were M6x16! M6x16s will be going back in!! As always, thanks for your help. Mick

And I was thinking the issue would be the wheel binding to the hub! I have painted them now so I will keep checking the torque.

BTW, I think it looks as good as any other after market add-on!

Well it's obviously OK in the cold, but be aware that direct summer sunshine may also affect it. Longevity is obviously important, but so is its operation in adverse conditions. You don't want to be in a situation where you can't open the cover- especially on a fuel filler! However that us a case of proving it through use, but hopefully everything will be OK- but if not it looks like you have the skill to adapt your design. I think you have done a great job which is obviously being proven by the fact it works!

Well done, looks good 👍

I will take the paint option!

Thanks gents, I will do that.

Just a quick question on painting hub faces - do or don't? I want to minimise future rust so want to know if it is a good idea to paint the hub faces. I was going to leave them bare and just put anti seize on it as I thought the paint may bind hub and wheel. So what are your thoughts please? As always, thanks for your help and advice as I am finding it really helpful as I start the maintenance on my defender. Mick

Many thanks. I did do a Google but it looks like there is no definite do's and don't. I noticed the heating comment and thought "that's OK as I heated the swivel housing to loosen a bolt" - then noticed it said bake for 8 hours!! I will consider this in future though - saying that I do intend to do the other swivel housing.

Hi pal, what is hydrogen embrittlement? As I am just getting into this I think I would benefit from understanding this side of things!

The original stop bolt compared to a standard M12 setscrew. The original bolt is 21.3mm across flats compared to 18.9mm for the M12

Sorry to open this old thread but I am in a similar situation with my old defender. I am fitting new swivels and at the same time cleaning up the swivel housing etc. My swivel flanges do not have the stop plate fitted. Also my stop bolts are different to those that I can find on the net as these show a standard M12 ser screw. My stop bolts are quite distinctive - I will add a photo of the bolt (though is in its clean-up state). Could anyone tell me how thick the stop plates are? And if you have any dimensions that would be great as I can soon make some up. Thanks for your help. Mick

Don't worry about the Royal//British Army reference. The army is split into different regiments etc and it is these that hold the "Royal" part in their title. Hope all goes well with your lights. Mick