Mossberg

Thanks for clearing up about the oil seals. I had heared on one of the videos to replace the seal every time you take the hub off! However I have just remembered that to take the hub off I will have to take the caliper off which I am trying to avoid as I don't want to damage the brake pipe. When I do the swap I will do the pipes anyway, but I don't want to start chasing the pipes to the master cylinder before the swap. The truck I have is a Defender 90. From a chassis number check it says year of manufacture 1992 and registration Feb 93. It has had a 300tdi fitted and I believed from the previous owner that the axles were from a 200tdi (which I presumed was a Disco 200tdi). They are disc brakes and I will be replacing the calipers and discs when I swap the axle casing. I will take a photo of the stub axle and hub this morning (the set I got with the replacement axle casing). I will also take the wheel off the truck so I can show you the end of existing arrangement. I really appreciate your time and replies guys. It would be nice to have a truck that was all in good order - but I couldn't afford one of those!! However, with the help of you guys, I am enjoying doing the repairs/maintenance (though you wouldn't think that when you hear the swearing and deap sighs as something brakes or I find the next buggered up bit I need to work on).

Unfortunately it's a bitsa so I am finding things out as I go along. I know they are 10 spline shafts as I have had one out before, but I can't remember what the stub axle was like. I will try to assess it tomorrow and take some photos and measurements.

Ah, OK. So because I have been given a set of stub axles with hubs, could I use these with the one piece 10 spline drive shafts I have? I suppose if the dimension from the face of the stub axle that bolts to the axle case, to the face on the hub that fastens to the drive flange is the same on each set is the same, then I should be OK with the one piece drive shafts? I will attempt to measure up tomorrow but unfortunately I have stripped the bearings from the hubs I was given so will have to put them back together.

The front has different hubs and the thicker drive flanges. I have just refurbished them so I am OK with them. I will take one of the drive shafts out tomorrow and look at the lock washer/stub axle end but without taking the hub off. I don't want to have to replace seals yet as I will be doing the axle in a week or so. Another question - do I have to replace hub seals every time I take the hub off?

Defenders with rear disc brakes - stub axles - two types - one has a slot for the lock washer with a small tab, and the other type have a flat that correspond with a lock washer with the hole to suit. The type with the flat is the later type. So, are the stub axles the same appart from from the way they interact with the lock washer, and do both types use the same hub set-up? I am having to change my axle casing and have a set of hubs and stub axles that have the flat. My current stub axles have the slot as it's a 10 spline! So, are they the same, as that will mean I can build a lot of the replacement axle before stripping the old one? I am replacing the calipers, disc's and bearings so the only things I will need from the old axle are the one piece drive shafts and diff. Thanks for your help. Mick

I am working to a bit tighter budget to you guys. I knew my calipers looked tired so when a set of Britpart calipers and vented discs (still in the boxes) were offered on another forum I bought them for £100 for the set. I bought a set of Ferodo pads to go with them and new genuine caliper bolts. All in about £135 I used standard flexes, was given some cunifer pipe, bought some SS bleed nipples, brass fittings for the full truck and a brake flaring tool - so an additional £70 or so. The calipers on the back are also looking tired so I will replace them soon, however for now I used the bleed nipples from the britpart calipers so I could bleed the full system. I bought 2lts of fluid but only used about 0.9ltr (I have a 90 with non abs brakes). I drained the reservoir as much as I could and replaced with the new fluid. I then bled the full system until the fluid ran clear and bubble free. Some images of my fluid From the front and reservoir From the back Some new (but from an old bottle so not used) for comparison I hope everything goes well for you. Mick PS. This is my first defender but I used to drive S3 when in the army. The brakes in the S3 were never good so I did not know what to expect in the Defender. I wasn't happy with the brakes but if I floored the pedal I locked the wheels and it was stopping the truck and passed the mot. However I can say the brakes are better, which is not surprising when you look at the fluid, but I have never put the truck through prolonged hard braking which is where the old fluid may have failed (though I am no brake expert so don't know if this is factually correct!).

Looks like you have It covered. Do you have the lock washers for the pipes where they pass through the brackets. Some people slot the bracket that fit to the swivel pin housing to allow the calipers to be taken off in future without undoing either pipes or brackets.

I have just done my calipers (and swivels) and I would say the following Check your bolt heads - look for a good shaped head. It should be a bi- hexagonal head - a good fitting 13mm or 1/2". Mine were rounded off and I had to cut the old caliper in half to get it off! I would consider new bolts. Check your brake lines as I believe it's touch and go if you unscrew the line from the caliper without it braking. Also check the flexes. If you think there is any chance of them needing to be changed, now may be an ideal opportunity to do it. I also did a full fluid change on mine. I don't know when it was last changed but boy did it need changing! I bought it two years ago but have hardly used it up to now - and it is 30 years old! Good luck with the swap.

Thanks folks. I will have a look at the spanners hopefully tomorrow. I didn't really want to buy a set as I will have most of them anyway - but I don't like being stuck when I start a job. I borrowed a 30mm from a friend and managed to get the A frame ball joint loose on my replacement casing. I do worry how the other will be when it comes to doing that. I am hoping the existing A frame ball joint will be OK as the bolts on the fulcrum bracket looks like it could be a while since that was off! Western, what are the 26, 27 & 28 size spanners used for?

I currently have spanners ranging up to 24mm. These are generally combination spanners though I think I have open up to 26mm. I am currently working on my rear axle and the A frame ball joint is 30mm. I have sockets to 32mm, but these won't fit on this nut due to restricted space. So, before I go and get a single spanner, are there any nuts requiring spanners over 24mm on a Defender? It looks like aldi are doing a combination spanner set to 32mm which are in their special buys this Thursday. This would match my socket set sizes, but if the only large spanner required is a 30mm, I may be better just getting a better quality single spanner. Thanks in advance for your help. Mick

Nothing worse than fighting the weather to slow you down. Weather promises a dry day, you get all your gear out and start the job, get yourself under the truck and start the job, come from under the truck to get something - flecking raining and everything is getting wet, you try pushing everything under the truck hoping to keep it dry but doesn't wort. So, take everything back in, dry it out, pack it away. Wait for the next free day with dry weather only for a repeat. Then over and over! Arghhh!!!!

I was putting some Lanoguard on the chassis and rear wheel arch. Was wire brushing before spraying. Started kn the axle. Poking the **** out from the bump stop plate and the crusty top came off - to reveal a crusty axle case under it. Picking up a replacement axle case tomorrow!! So what is swapping all the gear over going throw up????

I think mine has the slot in the stub axle but I have the tab washers for both types anyway. I find it odd that there is a difference in price from my supplier.

I will be ordering the items separately as I have the half shafts with fixed drive flange so don't need the circlip or plastic cap. I will replace the nuts and washers as the ones that have come off up to now have been abused a bit (nuts fitted and removed using a chisel). I will purchase the parts from my local supplier as they are reasonably priced and I can get the other parts I need from the same place. I still can't see the difference between front and rear kits!

Can anyone tell me the difference between the front and rear wheel bearing kits. I can see DA2379G (front) and DA2380G (rear). There is a difference in price but I am not sure what the difference is in the content. ATB Mick

Not sure why this is upside down. Whilst this is quite messy due to the underseal, it's not like the area between the bumpstop and axle case. That area had obviously been filled with crud and not cleaned creating a moisture trap. I suppose the lesson here is the parts that will rot are the parts that don't get cleaned and treated.

I will take some photos later.

I measured the bolts that came out and went back back in. The ones that came out were M12x1.25 and M12x1.75. Initially I assumed the coarse threads were imperial but they were not. The replacements were the same.

Best photo I can get until I crawl under the truck.

I will take a photo tomorrow. I would value your opinion as if it's fixable I should be able to do it. Because it's the axle I don't know anything about it. Obviously I can measure the diameter etc, but I am not sure about it's material thickness etc. Also this must be one of the most structural parts so it has to be right. I can add strength to it but then is a second hand casing not better - obviously this would be cost dependent.

Of the rust or the helicoils?

Guys, as you say, everything is building my experience and skills. I definitely need my torque wrench though, I just ain't got that right yet - especially with the smaller stuff. It's odd as nuts and bolts I can gauge when they feel right, but going into blind holes, especially aluminium, boy do I have to be careful! Still lots to learn and every task seems to highlight another issue. Yesterday's was brushing down the underneath ready to apply Lanoguard and managed to flip off the bump stop plate on the axle only to reveal a deep crusty spot, and I now think I need a replacement axle casing! Oh the joy of older vehicles. Now looking for an axle case if anyone has one!!

Yes the tool as the picture. To be honest I was probably being a bit over cautious with the threadlock but I was also thinking about when I take the bolts out as these have their own threadlock on. I did set the collar on the tool but initially I was putting pressure on the helicoil to go into the hole. As I could see the helicoil through the hole I could see I had forced it to skip a thread and I really didn't want it to bind on the bolt when I fitted it. I suppose the way I have done this is down to my inexperience with them. This was only the second time I had used them and with them being brakes I wanted to be happy I had them secure. I was also mindful that if they did start to run through when I used the bolt I could potentially not be using the full number of threads. I found the drill that came with the kit was very sharp and tried to snatch in the hole. I ended by gradually working my way up with existing drills that did not have quite as keen of a cutting edge as again I was mindful of braking the drill in the hole.

When I get the chance I will write a post to show the issues I have had when doing the work on my front swivels and brakes as it may be useful to novices that are undertaking the task. Hopefully I can highlight potential problems and the tools I have used so that they can be prepared for what they encounter and what they need. I won't tell anyone how to do the work as I don't feel I have the experience to do that - I think you guys are better at doing that. Unfortunately my PC is down and all my posts a via my phone so that will have to wait - at the moment I am going to have to address my rear axle which I believe needs a new casing! ATB Mick

Just an update to this which I put on the following thread. Many thanks to you folks that has helped me with your comments and advice. Everything is fitted, I have blead the brakes and everything seems to be working. The right hand caliper was definitely worse for wear and whilst it was working it was definitely in need of replacement. The nipple on this was barely recognisable. Changing the brake fluid highlighted its state and I will attach some photos to show the difference. From the reservoir and front. From the rear. Some old but unused fluid for comparison.