Mossberg

I have just swapped my front axle case and this is what I did. They are heavy and I thought I would struggle getting them back in, but it was easier than I expected. I did fit new gaskets between the chalice and axle case.

Thanks folks. Job now done. Took me more than a day but then I think I am the slowest man in the world when it comes to thus stuff - but then I do tend to do those bits that take time to complete! As I was swapping the axle case I I also had to do the hockey sticks as the new case was from a 300tdi. I cleaned up the spring mounts including brushing/sanding, phosphoric acid rust conversion, then painted with red oxide and a black top coat. Finally brushed with Lanoguard grease. I cleaned the springs using electrolysis, then red oxide and a black top coat. Fitted new galv shock towers, spring seats and shocks. The replacement hockey sticks had already had electrolysis cleaning, painting and new oem bushes. The axle case had already been reconditioned before I bought it. It was £100 and I was happy with that as it saved me restoring another (I have already restored an axle case for the rear so know the work involved doing that). As I was keeping the rest of the axle gear, I decided to remove the hubs c/w swivels - Jeez it's a heavy lump when you have a shoulder injury! (I had already drained the diff, disconnected steering bars and panhard rod and axle was on two jacks). I removed both hockey sticks (which came off with less effort than expected), split the prop from the diff and lowered the axle. I had a panhard rod that someone gave me and that had what looked like new poly polybushes in it, so a dose of electrolysis and painting and it was ready to fit. I removed the diff from the old axle, used my untrained eye to inspect it, wire brushed the outside, phosphoric acid treatment and then painted. For re fitting I added the diff and one hockey stick. This allowed me put the axle on a trolley and use the hockey stick to push the axle into position whilst steering it a bit. I only fitted the one as I didn't want too much weight trying to pull the axle over and this also allowed me to push the axle in from one side whilst avoiding axle stands under the chassis. I raised the axle for fitting in the same way I lowered it using two jacks and it went back a lot easier than I expected. The only issue I have is when I assembled everything the shocks seemed to be pointing forward. I panicked as I thought I must have bought the wrong hockey sticks. I measured them and they are the same as my old ones so could not be that. I tightened the bushes to the chassis and they will only go so far before they bottom out, so again it couldn't be that. I think it is just my inexperience and lack mechanicing expertise throwing doubt at me. Everything tightened up OK but 192nm is a lot with a bad shoulder. Most were OK to do but the two bolts on the hockey sticks that to the rear were difficult. There is so little room under the truck that I could not use my bodyweight so all the strain was through the shoulder and it really wasn't pleasant! However, finally I got the click from the torque wrench so all good. So I just need to sort the breather and take it for a trip. The axle just had a plain hole so I tapped it 1/4bsp and I just need to get a push in fitting to screw in.

Thanks David. I did look at the Gwyn Lewis ones and noted the M12. However, I looked at the pneumatic fittings and there is a 1/4bsp elbow available and as I had a suitable tap I decided on that route. My axle case is now on the truck and I just have to tighten the radius arm bolts and fill the diff. I think I have a 1/4bsp elbow but it's in my pneumatic fittings box which is at my brothers so I need to collect that from him and get it fitted. Thanks for the heads-up, it is appreciated.

Sean, I am not sure about the seals on a normal oil can - especially with the acetone mix. It would be great if it does, especially with the flexible nozzle. The mechoil sounds interesting muddy, but I bought 1ltr of acetone to try so would like to try that first. It was about £9 delivered and I already have atf, but your gear sounds like an economical option.

Thanks Mike. I thought it would be OK but wanted to check before I filed the diff.

I like the paintbrush idea. Easy yo apply direct where you need it. I am also going to look at syringes as someone has pointed out the ones that don't have the rubber bit.

I currently use Plusgas for my thread penetrant but I am also considering a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF One thing I have noticed is how difficult it can be to apply to the area I want it. My Plusgas is in a tin, not a spray can. Many times the area of application is in an area with little room above it, so holding the tin above it to apply the fluid isn't possible. Many times I end up not being able to apply it or p**sing it all over the place as I try a long range squirt or running it from high above. So do you folks have any cunning methods to apply it? Buying it in mini spray cans would be good but that would be quite expensive and no good if I am using my own mix. I once thought I had found a good applicator when I decided to use the little drip bottle thing you get with a covid test - it worked great in principle but the body of it split in no time, so great idea but not upto the job. I am considering little syringes. 20x 3ml syringes are £7.27 off ebay. These should be small enough and also you can direct the fluid in any direction you can point the syringe but not sure how long one wood last. So any ideas folks? I have enough rusty nuts to benefit from a good application tool. Thanks in advance. Mick

Odd - I think you may be right there. As I haven't got a clue what I'm doing, reading these forums and YouTube are all I have!! I am enjoying it mind, in a cursing, knuckle banging, masochistic kind of way!

Thanks folks. It says on the tube to leave for 15 minutes to skin over. Last time I used it I read the instructions first, but this time as I had used it before I just got on with it. As the diff was settling on the axle case, and as the RTV sqished out, I suddenly remembered about the wait time and thought ffs you t**t!

Well I do some di*kish things and I have just added to the list! I have just fitted my diff to the axle case and forgot to leave the RTV sealant to skin for 15 minutes. I made the sealant chain then within a couple of minutes placed the diff onto the case. So, will this be an issue? I don't want to separate and clean it up for the sake of it, but also would rather sort it now if it is going to be an issue. Your thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Many thanks. Mick

Well it's had 1 coat red oxide and 1 coat black. Also had Lanoguard grease brushed on. Hopefully if the stars align it may reduce corrosion for a bit - though I won't hold my breath 😉

I am currently swapping theaxle case on my Defender. My existing axle is tapped I presume 1/8" not or bsp etc. However, the replacement case has a plain hole of about 11mm diameter. So what fits this plain hole or am I better tapping it for a pneumatic fittings, and if so what size? Thanks for your help. Mick

Will do. I will also treat it with Lanoguard or such afterwards.

Thanks Muddy. The reason I decided to do the axle was because I took the radius arm off to do the first outrigger. I have just taken the shock turrets off and cleaned the spring mounts. I used the wire brush in the grinder to do most of the cleaning then on with some phosphoric acid to neutralise the rust - it was quite pleased with the results. Now painted with red oxide and tomorrow I will fit the galv shock turrets, then on with the new refurbed axle case. I will leave the second radius arm off and do the other outrigger then.

Thanks Muddy. I have a fear of upsetting anything electrical- whilst I am no mechanic, electricery is like another dimension! I will try to look more carefully at it before I make a decision, but I am currently changing my front axle case. I was going to do the outrigger with the axle off, but I prefer to have the extra stability of wheels on the ground!

I really didn't want to pull the loom, but certainly don't want to burn it! I will have to look at what I need to do. So, any tips on pulling the loom through? Do people recommend putting it back into the chassis or taking a different route - again, advice and tips welcome!!

Hints and tips required on how to protect the wiring loom when welding the chassis. I need to replace the right hand (drivers side) bulkhead outrigger and I notice the wiring loom enters just before the area I need to weld. This will need welds (x4) the full depth of the chassis and also along the top and bottom, so quite a bit of heat going into it. So how do you guys protect the loom from this amount of heat? Thanks in advance for your help.

The other problem with branded gear is they are desirable to those lacking scruples. When you have a box full of expensive kit, loosing the box is an expensive experience. I try to buy gear based on recommendations but with a price that is reasonable for my requirements. Sometimes a tool does not do as good a job, or it may not be as nice to use, but if you don't use it often then you can put up with it. When I was in a small company before i bought anything I asked myself do I need it for health and safety, will it make me money, will it make my life easier.

I fitted my radius arm bushes today. I used the field repair method using a vice and a long M16 setscrew. I had already reconditioned the radius arms so it was time to fit the OEM bushes. I have read that you can fit these by using a screw to pull them into position. I decided to try this and thought I would share my experience incase it may help others trying to do the same. To fit the bushes I needed to apply pressure to the outer sleeve whilst not putting any force on the inner section. To do this I cut a hole about 24mm into a piece of channel section and a piece of 10mm flat bar. I tried pulling the bush into the radius arm by using the long setscrew, tightening it to pull the bush into the arm. Unfortunately this didn't work. It didn't keep the bush and arm square, so it pulled the bush at an angle and I had to rethink how to do it. I decided to try the vice. I wasn't sure if this would work due to the pressure required to take the bush into the arm. I placed the drilled flatbar onto one face of the bush so that pressure was only applied to the outer sleave. NOTE - the bush and arm must be square to the jaws of the vice or the bush will twist and bind. MY VICE IS AN OLD RECORD 112 (6" jaws) so I was happy it was a strong tool. Once I was happy the bush was going in square, I tried using the vice to push it all the way in, but this was starting to bend the arm of the vice as I had to use a rawhide mallet or 700mm tube to tighten the vice. So I tried the Setscrew method. Whilst this was slow it does work. You need to make sure the exit end of the radius arm is spaced away from the bolt to allow it to draw the raised central sleave through the arm. I made sure both the bush and the arm had a leading edge put onto them and also used lots of grease to allow them to be drawn in without binding. Whilst it is slow and awkward, it is achievable. I hope this may be helpful to someone, however if anyone can add to this or pick me up on areas where I have gone wrong or items where my method could be improved, then please add to this. I have put this on here as others have helped me so much on this forum so want to give back. I have very little hands on experience so please consider this when you read my posts - this is my first attempt at fitting bushes. I could have used a friend's press, but my aim is to learn to do things myself and is why I opted for this method (I think the press method would be a lot easier!).

Is that with the engine in Litch?

I am sure I have seen a thread on here describing with good instructions and photos, how to swap a front axle. Unfortunately I can't find it now, so can anyone point me in the right direction please. I am just going out to make a stand to support the front of the truck and thought I would just run through it again 🙃 Many thanks if you can help. Mick

Hi Clive I did ask and they came back quickly but unfortunately couldn't help. The place to ask seems to be on the Australian forum, aulro, but you only get 3 months free access and after that you can't post anymore without subscribing and I am always reluctant giving those kinds of details on the net. There are a few posts on there about it but unfortunately I can't see the images. They probably use this kind of kit more due to the higher temperatures they are used to driving in. I hope all your jobs go well. I have a bit to do myself this week, notably changing my front axle case and replacing my bulkhead outriggers - both jobs I am apprehensive about.

Ah, thanks Clive, I think you have mentioned that before! Have you fitted the sensor to the transmission yet - if you have could you post up a photo. I am keen to see your results when you get it wired up. I suppose with the sensors bolting on it shouldn't be too difficult to move the position. I will continue with my quest to find out where others have fitted it (the Australian guys seem keen to fit them on the 300tdi) and if I find out I post it here.

That's the one I fancy getting. Did you get stung for customs charges?

Thanks Bowie, I think a bit more investigation may be useful. Clive's actual real time feedback will be great when he gets the gauge fitted.