Mossberg

Any purple I can see is permanent live.

Have a look at this thread for a link to the diagram. I am trying to interprate the diagram but I don't know what I am looking and could be giving you a bum steer!

Looks like solid green is positive to switch. I will try to look for the other colour.

Not of a great deal of use to you, but I have just had to re-do my wiring loom and the green/purple wire is the stop light. This is from a 1993 defender.

Being relatively new to land rover work, I can say the contributions by Les and those that post how-to's and help is invaluable to people like me. Without them my ownership would not be possible. It really is a sad day when someone so helpful passes as so many of us owe them so much. RIP Les, and thanks for all your help. My condolences to your family and friends.

Thanks Arjan.

I thought it was wrong saying stainless, though I presumed they were dipped. I am not sure about zinc spraying. I think anything sprayed is "line of sight" application, where dipping gets inside twin skinned sections, in particular the spotwelded seams as they hold water and notorious rust spots. I have a spare bulkhead that I am going to repair and get dipped (eventually - don't go holding your breath though!)

How much is a Maer bulkhead? I tried to look on their site but it's saying £1,499 including vat but delivery extra. The confusing bit is that it says stainless steel but goes on to say grade s355.

Watching this with interest. I would like a similar kind of thing for my 90, but being just under 6'4" I can see it being a challenge. I haven't looked too closely at it yet but assume if it is possible it would have to be diagonal from the rear right corner to front left and go very the reduced height bulkhead. The other option would be to leave the back door open and have a rear awning. As the OP has said, quick, easy and comfortable is the ideal. It would very good to be able to fit inside as I wouldn't need to do the setting up, but my height will make that challenging.

Well it's through its mot! Initially failed on the passenger door not latching fully - which is due to a stiff door seal and just needs a good slam to shut. The other item was the windscreen washers- I think it may have some gunk in the tank as its intermittent. I will take the tank off and give it a clean, then take the jets off and blow the pipes through. Thankfully all the work I have done on the chassis, (outriggers front and back,dumb irons and crossmember), plus the refurbished axles and brakes, all passed without any comment. Quite chuffed really as this year is the first real spanner work I have done. Still lots to learn as I have not done anything with the engine or gearbox, though I am not wishing for any work on those areas thanks.

As with any business you need at least one of these two - a client base or a product. With a client base you need the ability and capability to produce what they want, at a quality that is acceptable, at a competitive price. Being a "jobbing shop", where the customer comes to you and asks you to make something, gives you a potentially wider customer base but also many more companies competing for the same work. Intelligent machines make a huge difference but are very expensive and you need to be able to work with them. CAD is great with sheat metal, especially 3D if you can do it. However, the great thing with this is there are lots of companies that can do this sort of work and usually at reasonable prices. With laser cutting, if you have only one part you will pay a premium. If you have lots of single parts from the same material it will cost less for the individual part as it will come from the same sheet. Folding is different. Each part will have to be set up for folding, so a repetitive part will cost less per item. So onto specialist products. For this you will need a way to market and sell your product. This in itself needs its own budget and may also mean your product is sold nationality rather than locally. If you sell systems/projects etc then you may need to travel to meetings to sell your product. I have worked in a few companies that were based on sheet metal products and also jobbing shops. Any questions you have I will gladly answer the best I can, but obviously only based on my own experience.

The crossmember is fitted, wiring completed and everything back together. I used a piece of 13core trailer cable to replace the wiring loom. I ordered the heavier cable with the wires being either 1 5 or 2.5mm2. It felt like a decent quality cable and was heavy/solid enough. My wiring loom had 10 wires, two of which were redundant as they were for the rear fuel tank, of the rest there were 7 for the lights and 1 permanent live I tested the supply from each wire in the existing loom (not including the fuel tank wires) and everything was working apart from the reverse light which is annoying as it was working before I took the crossmember off. I wasn't too worried about the reverse light as I presume I have possibly disturbed the wiring to the switch, and as its not a requirement for the mot I will leave any investigation until after the test. I took the unused wires (5) and folded them back onto the main cable and taped them up. I then joined the other cables using heat shrink crimp connectors. I then wrapped everything in insulation tape. I routed the cable on top of the chassis. I was going to use a convoluted trunking for the cable but actually found a length of hose that was a good fit. I cut a split along its length and placed it over the cable then taped it every 8 inches or so to secure it.its a good reinforced hose and should protect the cable against any chaffing. This is now a good solid cable and isn't likely to stray from the top of the chassis. I have used cable ties to secure and it feels nice and secure. I fed the cable up into the rear tub then used the excess length to pass over the left. I passed the main loom, right to left loom and trailer socket wire through the same hole in the tub. This will allow me to remove the tub in future without splitting the wires. I used the other hole in the tub for the light wires. I had already fitted a direct earth into this area and fitted a multi-point terminal. All the lights connect to this and also the earth cable to the left side which I have again fitted a multi-point connector too. All has been tested and all works appart from the reverse light which I will sort after the test this week. The rear 2/3 of the truck has had a good dose of fluid film and internal wax. I won't do the front 1/3 until after the test as it isn't the nicest stuff to have to grab hold of when testing the steering elements etc. I will keep you updated as to how the rest goes.

Many thanks- its a great forum and I appreciate your work on keeping it going.

Henk, have a look at this thread if you do consider rrefurbishingyour axle case. I used electrolysis and I feel it worked well. If you have any questions on the process or set-up then just ask and I will help where I can. As you already have your axle case, if it is in good condition, cleaning and repainting can be relatively inexpensive. Note that with electrolysis you don't take away or damage good steel, only rust is removed. https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/111731-rear-axle-case-swap/

I have tried to look on their website and Facebook but no prices for axles I don't really want to make an enquiry as I am not looking for one, only curious.

So how much are these?

That looks like a copy of the axle off the 90/disco 1/rrc. If that is the case I would suggest you check the specification is suitable for what you want as I know the Salisbury spec is higher. You say your axle is getting more play, but would the play not be from bearings, stub axles, dif and bushes. I have just done a rear axle case swap on my 90. The reason for the change was due to corrosion on the many weld-don parts - bump stop plates, spring mounts, shock brackets and the tube under one bump plate in particular. My axle case replacement was from a 300tdi disco but was rusty. I cleaned it using electrolysis and it removed the rust which I then prepped and painted. That cost me £80 but then the work of restoration, so paint etc. I did a bit of a restoration which cost around £500, but that included calipers, discs, Timken bearings, Corteco seals and new brake lines (cunifer pipe, brass fittings, s/s nipples and standard flexible). I didn't change hubs, stub axles, drive shafts or diff).

Still on axle stands and exhaust not on yet, but looks a bit tidier now. Fluid film being applied tomorrow with some internal chassis treatment too. Then onto the wiring....... I ended up changing the fog and reverse light whilst the under-arch part was uncovered. I had a pair anyway so it seemed stupid not to use the opportunity to do it, and i am glad I did as the fog was falling apart internally. I had to butcher them to get them off - another awful design!

My exhaust is starting to look tired so I was looking for prices. Unfortunately I am struggling to find it listed anywhere. The part number on the existing section is WDE100680. Does anyone know if there is an alternative part number? My 90 is a 1993 but has a 300tdi conversion. I can find the centre section from the number off that. The front section looks like it could have had a section welded in.

The crossmember is fitted but I must admit it was hard work. As the truck had already had a crossmember fitted before, it was a bit of a faff with the width of the chassis legs. I didn't cut the legs down enough to start with as I preferred to try it on first. It took a few times, off and on, to decide when it was right but I got there in the end. Its not the easiest thing to do on your own. Getting it on far enough was difficult. I ended up using a couple of ratchet straps as it was tight - though that was easier when I had cut the legs far enough back. However I got it all lined up and eventually welded on. That was difficult as it required some awkward positions as I was doing the work on the drive. Trying to find a position to weld the inner faces whilst wearing a welding screen took some contorting - which was difficult with my knackered back! Didn't help setting myself on fire either (well more smoldering and drawing patterns on myself with a hot blob of steel). My welding looks like the residue from Nelsons column but it's strong enough. I have to do the wiring now, but at least the crossmember is on.

Many thanks, I will have a look.

Does anyone have any links to the heat shrink crimp connectors and to heat shrink. Preferably somewhere I can get it quick, and if possible ebay or a place that accepts PayPal. Alternatively, do electrical places stock them for reasonable money? I don't want to pay stupid costs but also don't want inferior kit either. Links would be great if possible as I would prefer to look at sites/sellers you folks have had success with. Many thanks. Mick.

I agree with that. I have an old 90, so little to damage, but I wouldn't class that as big enough for a farm. I certainly wouldn't have thought you would want anything with such susceptible trim and door furniture. I don't know what farmers pay for trucks, but I wouldn't have thought 60k - but then I ain't a farmer!!

When I bought my truck I couldn't find my number because of the amount of coating over it. I was pooing myself just incase I had bought a ringer, even though I was happy with who I bought it from. It really is counter to what it's for when you can't find it and it's so susceptible to corrosion. But at least you found it - now look after it.

I went on a land rover experience day. I was amazed by the electronic off road gadgetry. I think It was the Disco we went around in and whilst it was a basic course it went over some steep and awkward bumps. I am no seasoned off roader and at that time had a 3.9 v8 RRC. I did think I may struggle on that course in the RRC - mainly due to lack of locking difs and the cross axle lifting of wheels in some areas. That highlighted a few things to me - I am not experienced off road, if doing actual off road a locking diff may be useful, and the new vehicles rely on electronics for their ability. This vehicles (new Defender) off road ability really does seem outstanding. When you see the vehicle performing that well on all season tyres you really do understand what computers matched with sensors can achieve. Unfortunately that abilities reliance on the computer/sensor combination is also the biggest drawback. How will that farm vehicle be performing in 5, 8, 10 years time and what will the annual servicing costs be. I can see the interior suffering in that environment too. The new Defender certainly looks like a pleasure to travel in and does look like is would be great for an off road novice like me. Would I like one - yes, could I ever afford one - no. As the vehicle gets to an age where perhaps I could afford one I really can't believe I could afford the upkeep. So in summary it looks comfortable, capable and a pleasure to drive - but out of my reach.