Mossberg

Some great replies folks, thanks. The printer is indeed a Prusa and I know people say you can get cheaper but I didn't want to get something that sat and collected dust due to me not being able to get it working. I borrowed a Prusa Mk2.5 a few years ago and that worked well so didn't want to risk a different one. I enjoyed building the printer and at least you do get some insight into how it works. Some great prints there and the idea of the mold is great. I do need to order some PETG, but the priority needs to be to relearn the software. Keep the photos of the parts coming in, they are inspiring and informative.

My thoughts are to print from PETG, but I am new to this so the advice is welcome. I would appreciate comments on what to do and not what to do. This is a big learning curve for me and I need to understand the materials, the printer and the software, so hopefully with input from experienced folk I can progress the right way.

I have managed to get myself a 3D printer and would like to print some things that will hopefully be OK for the Defender. I got it on a bit of a whim so didn't really have anything in mind, so now I am looking at stuff to print. So have you folks printed stuff for your vehicle or indeed other related items. My thoughts are: Parts for inside - the dash, centre console, switch and gauge housings, in the back and tub areas and on doors etc. Exterior parts such as trim pieces, light surrounds, on the bodywork/bumpers etc. Underneath and inside the engine bay. Thinking of things like caps and bungs, brackets and clips, etc. Tools. Things to help seat seals etc. Toolbox and garage. Storage solutions, specific tool storage or gear tidies etc. It would be good to know what you have done, if it's been successful and indeed if its been unsuccessful as that may save it lot of grief in repeating things that don't work. Is there anywhere that shares files for prints? It seems pointless trying to design and draw something that has already been successfully done. I don't want the printer sitting idle, especially as I don't have a particular project in mind. Things I'm am currently thinking of doing are; Caps over the bumper fixings. Bungs for where the wiring loom came out of the chassis. Mobile phone support to fit into the ashtray area on the dash. The centre panel on the dash (the one with the cigarette lighter socket and wiper switch) to include extra items. Looking forward to seeing what you have done. ATB. Mick

I agree, new bolts usually have it on and to be honest I do tend to use new bolts rather than replacing them. However, I replaced my swivels at the start of last year then replaced the axle case within six months, so refitted bolts on that occasion. Also I seem to do more of my fair share of fitting something then taking it off again in the near future!

I used the long aviation spanner on mine and it worked a treat. I was cautious about using thread lock as I didn't want to make the bolts too difficult to remove in the future. Doing the swivels was one of my first jobs so I was new to the threadlock thing so I googled it and watched a video by loktite. It was a good watch and it showed how the threadlock actually helped the bolts to come out in future as it prevented water getting into the threads and corroding- it was a good watch for me doing my first attempt at spanner work.

I like the look of these,I think you have done a good job. I was looking to make something similar using just box section and pins, but the prop looks a good idea One of the things that I considered was making the base from a defender disk brake and making a plate with the same PCD welded to the prop (from 10mm steel) so that I could remove the base for storage. I ended up using my existing axle stands so didn't end up doing them, but my thoughts were the surface area of the disk would actually stop them digging in. What will be the minimum and maximum height of these?

Remember with a stud extractor you still have the same number of stuck bolts and each one will need tackling on an individual basis. My preferred option would be to cut off the ball to give as much possible access, clean the heads as best you can (time here will be well spent), find a strong spanner or socket that is a real snug fit and use heat/quenching. You have two main points here - fitting a tool that will transfere as much force as possible to turn the bolt, and using methods to break the corrosion that is binding the fixing to the axle case. I have had to remove some bolts that were dubious as to if they would come out and heat was the difference in my case. Oxy-acetylene would be good if you could get it or perhaps an induction heater (none of which I had) or if not then mapp gas. I used a Rothenberger superfire 2 as that was recommended to me by a forum member. Remember you have seven individual bolts to address and that is potentially a lot of work if you have to start using stud extractors.

I believe with an old fashioned charger you don't need a battery. The battery is needed if you use one of the newer type smart chargers. I have done quite a bit of electrolysis now and I think it's a great method of rust removal. From simple steel brackets right through to my axle case - I have even done stub axles as the electrolysis doesn't affect the good steel. I have also done clamps and hammers!! I find compressed air and a bit of WD40 are good to reduce flash rusting. Keep posting your photos, I like seeing the before and after pics!

So does this just push in and then pull off? If I'd does I feel it's a bit flawed. Unless it's a really good fit I could see the potential for it coming off if you hit a pot hole or speed bump. Also likely to be left on top of a petrol pump after filling. I would have thought it needs to be hinged or at least have a cord fastened to the vehicle. Would it not also need to vent in some way or is it not fully sealed. I would also think a drain would be required on the lower edge (which could also be the vent). Perhaps a PB version is on the horizon........?

Acetone can clean up many things, including things you didn't want to clean up. I managed to get some super glue on a kitchen worktop. Got some grief from my good lady! Was there for about 2 years then got some acetone when refurbing my axles, tried it on the superglue and off it came - so an end to the odd comment from the better half!

Wow, £4,632 for a 90 rear tub! And then it needs painting!!

Well done, looking good!

Why not try asking on the mig welding forum? https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ Helpful people, lots of knowledge and may possibly tell you where and what to buy.

I think your best option is to ring the galvanisers and ask. They should be able to tell you one way or the other end also tell you if they would reject it! I believe they can sometimes be fussy about what goes into the bath due to potential contamination. I know what you mean about preferring galvanising as it gets into all those places you sometimes can't access well for paint.

Many thanks for the replies. I am looking forward to getting the printer and giving it a go. I was learning solidworks previously but I ended up loosing it on my PC, which is a shame as there were some great instructional videos on youtube.

This looks really good and you should give yourself a pat on the back. I have a Prusa 3D printer kit on order so I will be looking through your previous posts with great interest. I will need to build the printer after Christmas and then I need to get some 3D software and learn how to use it. I will be interested in your choices of filament materials as I personally want to make working kit, not just models!! One of the first things I want to look at is caps for the centre of alloy wheels on my 10 spline front axles.

Thanks Litch. I think you have a good method to your estimate of valuation. I have seen your build thread so I can see how you can document your figures. I will make sure I document the condition of the truck with plenty of photos, plus get my invoices together and perhaps even list it on a spreadsheet. I suppose sometimes its not just what someone will pay, but how much it would cost to bring a vehicle up to the standard. I suppose it could be classed as a rolling restoration as far as valuation is concerned.

Thanks Muddy. I agree about going higher as they certainly won't negotiate up! I think an amount of documentation, including photos and lists of the hours undertaken in restorations. I really don't want to negate the work I have done just because I haven't tarted the bodywork up. I also don't think a good paint job makes for a good vehicle, it has to be a complete package. I will put together costs for the work I have undertaken too (parts and paint etc). Thanks for your reply. Mick

Many thanks folks, I do appreciate the time you give to respond. I do think it's a shame that a major part of the condition of a vehicle is not given better consideration, but it is what it is. I will take some photos as a record anyway. I try to make sure I list any mods and additions. The last thing I want is for a legitimate claim to be rejected for something stupid!

Thanks Smallfry. That's a shame as the work done certainly adds cost! Also, by that logic, a vehicle with a good interior and bodywork wouldn't have much difference in value if the underneath was pristine or just barley scraping through an mot. Whilst they could ask for photos of the state of the vehicle, there is nothing stopping me getting photos of the underneath too. I could do some work to improve the bodywork, but that just adds to its desirability to a thief. It may sound odd but I am trying to improve the truck whilst avoiding improving the cosmetics! How do you go about getting a valuation from a club. It would be nice to know the actual value I should give to the insurance. Many thanks. Mick

After buying my Defender in 2020, I have done an amount of work to improve it. I have it insured for 6k but this is due to me not upping the figure at my last insurance renewal and also doing further work since. I have tried looking on ebay and auto trader, but they don't list any in a similar condition as mine. Most of the vehicles have advertised them showcasing the bodywork and possibly suspension lifts etc, which is not like mine. I have concentrated on the chassis and axles to this point. New outriggers front and rear, new (well used but perfectly good condition) rear galvanised crossmember, new brake calipers front and rear, new brake lines, new Timken bearings and Corteco seals, and new swivels. The rear axle case has been replaced with a Disco 300tdi rear case which i have refurbished using electrolysis, and painted with 2x Bonda rust primer and black topcoat. New A frame ball joint. Good as new hockey sticks with new oem bushes. Replaced front Acle case which I think came from a TD5 and looks like new. I have cleaned up the suspension and fitted new shocks on the front. I have cleaned and fluid-film/Lanoguard treated the underside and used dinitrol inside the chassis. I have done it this way so I can keep my eye on the condition of the chassis and act quickly if I see anywhere needing attention. The bodywork, whilst functional, is not pristine by any stretch of the imagination. One of the wings is dented, all doors need the lower section replacing, the roof and bonnet has dents and a bit of bubbling on the rear. The bulkhead could be better but no holes. Whilst its a K reg (93) Defender, it has a 300tdi fitted and R380 gearbox. A optimill QR boss and Momo millenium evo steering wheel will be fitted on next renewal. So, whilst I have no intention of selling, I would like to get it insured for a true reflection of what it's worth, as I don't want to loose out if it gets nicked! I hope the information given can help you give me some idea as to value. Also, over its next insurance duration, I intend to fit a refurbished and galvanised bulkhead, so any idea of how much value this would add would be helpful too. Well there is one thing for sure, I very rarely ask simple questions!!! Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Mick

I think the oil migrates from the diff, along the drive shaft, through the stub axle and into the hub. There is a seal in the stub axle that stops it. Any oil in the hub will leak through the drive shaft seal or hub seal.

First off, let me say I am absolutely no expert on paint so please bear that in mind either my comment. As you are painting an axle this is one place I would expect to get the odd scratch. Whilst I understand a strong paint will resist scratches, when rust does get into a scratch would it not be likely to rust under the paint? I have just refurbished an axle case and I used two coats of Bonda rust primer for its adhesion then a top coat. I do expect it to get scratched and will use a lanolin spray so I can keep my eye on it. However, if I was looking for a really corrosion resistant coating I would consider galvanising especially if I didn't have a good place to apply the paint. I have never personally done this so comments by someone who has would be welcome. Whatever you decide keep us updated on your progress and good luck.

I suppose a military truck would need to turn the brake lights off. Going off memory our sIII's in the army had a light switch that could turn off the rear lights though I am not sure how this would affect wiring. You can't really have the brake lights coming on in a combat zone! Perhaps the guys here with ex-military vehicles could pass comment.

I just thought perhaps the colours may be similar - but then i have very little land rover experience, and zero on the Perentie!