mad_pete

should be "WILL REQUIRE WELDING TO A CHASSIS" and warning may contain metal

Potentially I've got that kicking about in the garage having fitted a mud dash if you want one.

I ran a dirty big earth strap on mine and that was good for a drop from 3 - 2. 3 and above should be earth fault I think. Check SWR meter is on right setting though.

Range rovers are constant 4wd. Center diff lock is either a lever or automatic through a viscous coupling. The range rover could have been either and will depend on the transfer box.

How many trees to catch on are there in the desert ?

it's a remote tyre inflation/deflation system surely ?

I;m tempted. How difficult are the lanes likely to be ?

Having just blown my CB up I'm tuning my new one up at the moment. I'm using these web pages (chap at the shop is very helpful too) http://www.4x4cb.com/public/page.cfm?CatID=792 These might help. Says 1 to 5 inches might need to come off the aerial

I know Fridge doesn't want to do car wiring. Don't get him in here shouting at me. :-)

Anyone know a sparky near me? I wanted a few relays moved and my wiring generally tidied and I know I wire things like a badly trained monkey

I ordered a truck cab from a scrappy and bolted it in. Notified DVLA of the body type change.

hehe I wouldn't trust my maths

If my car will do 0-60 in say, 10 seconds but I can do 60-0 in more like 3 seconds, surely the brakes will overcome the engine? I might try it tomorrow. Hmm let me attack the issue with bad science Engine 150 BHP. Lets put lose 20% in the drive train. 120 BHP power at the wheels, lets swap to Kw 120 BHP = 88 Kw Brakes convert motion to heat and energy is conserved so at full engine power each brake has to dissipate 22 KW of heat and that's just to stop the car accelerating. At 60 mph a 1.5 ton car has 530 KJ of kinetic energy that has to be dissipated on top of the extra power the engine is adding in. Air resistance is chipping in with about 278 N of drag say. So power of that is ( force x speed ) 278 x 27 = 7.5 KW not that much So each brake needs to be able to dissipate about 25 KW of heat If I take this If my car will do 0-60 in say, 10 seconds but I can do 60-0 in more like 3 seconds Brakes are roughly 3 times more powerful than the engine so 264 KW. So you should be able to overpower the engine and stop in 4 secs at full brake power but if you only manage half power on the brakes I think you'd be looking at overheat and brake fade very quickly. So overall I'd say yes brakes can overpower the engine but you need to be quick.

I've got a wide band sensor :-)

Are those cool 10 LED baragraphs still about ? I can't find one with the 3 colours.

It's not just the battery, I'm going to mount a PC and maybe fuse box behind the passenger seat and meagsquirt is behind the drivers. It would just be that little bit easier if the seats could come out that little bit quicker.

That should be good for the fuel costs and reliability. Good luck :-)

Yeah that's the theory and I grant you I must be the unluckiest V8 buyer but V8 £250 (not that I found one for £250) You need something to pick it up (van hire £40) In my case on strip down corroded bore Engine in bin start again V8 £250 (not that I found one for £250) Corroded injector pins new set of injectors £400 Head gasket failed £100 if you do it yourself V8 runs hot so new rad £80 New fuel filter need high pressure pump from somewhere £20 Probably want new engine mounts, the temp gauge won't be right, there will be some fabrication here and there it'll run hot the engine's lighter so the springs will be higher, and the exhaust will need some work. I probably clocked up £2000 changing from 3.5 carb to 4.2 MS, partly cos I'm unlucky and partly cos some jobs I don't trust myself to do properly This is probably worst case but cylinder head, camshaft, and carb was easy. The thing is still bulletproof, still has the right engine. 2.25 uprated is more reliable than a V8 I would say. If you want reliability carbs are more reliable than EFI. I accidentally ran my 2.25 with no coolant and only noticed when the oil started to smoke and it was still working fine after wards.

oh yes that's right I had the cylinder head as well. Now I remember.

I had the camshaft and the SU kit in mine and it was absolutely great. More power but still quite bulletproof and not a monster amount of work. No overheating issues, not enough power to blow other bits to pieces. Having done both an engine swap and the carb I'd recommend the carb + camshaft. Engine swaps always seem to take longer and cost more than they should. My vote would be the carb.

Bucket seats in a 90. Battery is under the passenger seat. Can you get save and legal quick release bolts to hole said seat in ? THe seats catch so I can't slide them off their rails. I have 4 bolts with captive nuts that aren't as captive as I'd like and I it's handy to show the battery is secure etc etc at speed without have to unbolt everything.

"I wasn't implying CO2 has no effect, but what comes out of the exhaust of hydrogen powered cars? " H2O indeed comes out the back but chances are the 2 Hs being burnt were scrapped of an O so it's not like water creation.

in a "dust to dust" comparison of modern cars (covering the total life of the car made+driven+re-cycled) the 4.0L jeep wrangler was most eco friendly car.

"I believe WV accounts for 98% of the greenhouse effect, yet CO2 is only a minor percentage of the remaining 2%. " I wouldn't put it that high by a long way but water vapour has a amplifying effect so small changes caused by CO2 are magnified by the water vapour. That's not the same as CO2 doesn't matter.

"I'm waiting for someone to tot up the energy used in the manufacture of wind turbines or solar cells versus the energy they actually produce over their entire lifetime. I'm not convinced they break even, maybe they never will." Then why would wind farms buy one ? Cost of turbine = materials + construction + energy. Money gained from turbine by selling the energy it creates. If the turbine took more energy to produce (not including materials and construction) than it was ever going to produce I think the wind farm owners would notice pretty quickly. Google as much as you can trust that has it at 3 - 9 months: "The energy consumed to manufacture and transport the materials used to build a wind power plant is equal to the new energy produced by the plant within a few months of operation"