M&S

Yeah, may as well ask whilst I'm writing a list of MORE stuff that needs doing Taken a photo, think the leak is from the plug but not sure? How do I change that?? I'm loosing a litre between services so if it's a massive job it can stay as it is as I've had enough now to be honest! I have wiped the plug clean before the photo, but that is where the "freshest oil" seems to be from

Hi all, Had the clutch and flywheel changed on my D2 and the chattering is just the same as before. The clutch did need changing, so it wasn't a complete waste of money, but I'm now wondering about the gearbox. It chatters on tickover or when coasting in gear until you drop the clutch. Also when at tickover if you gently push the gear lever to weight it in any gear (so as close as you can to engaging a gear without engaging it, not using the clutch at all) the chatter stops, as it does when you dip the clutch. 1st gear has been a little problematic. Sometimes when in neutral I need to move the lever into second before I can engage first. This has always been a "quirk" when it's winter and on the odd other occassion in the past. Just mentioning it in case it might be related/give more info. I suspect it will be the input gear but would like that confirming? Also the noise is pretty loud, you can hear it at any speed in any gear when coasting or coming off the throttle. It's loud enough for me to be concerned anyway! Is this a simple job to replace the input gear? I don't fancy changing the whole box as I know this one and it's history, and it's the smoothest one I've driven even at 156,000 miles. I know the oil has been done at the service intervals etc so don't fancy getting an unknown from a scrapyard. I am flat broke having just spent the money on ball joint replacements, steering rods, clutch MOT and tax. If I drive until I need the AA will it trash the box totally? Or will it just get to a point where I can't select a gear and that's that? It seems my disco runs on a two year cycle. Everything comes at once every two years!

As per the title. We have been pondering this for a while now and was wondering if anyone had done it? What are the thoughts on the BW transfer box? I think it could work really well on the Disco 2 with the traction control. I think they would compliment each other. Are these boxes reliable? Just thinking out loud at the moment...it's an idea though.

Interesting, looks good for the price if you already have a laptop. As above, let us know how you get on. The Nanocom is ok, but not very user friendly.

Ouch, still, looks like I have no fears regarding the quality of the drag links!

Thanks Dave. Will be a bit more sympathetic with the new arms on!

Thanks, that has put my mind at rest as well. I was hoping for a few more threads like that before taking the plunge, but needed to get them ordered. They'll be coming with whatever joints they come with this time, money is tight and order is already on way! When they wear I'll look for better quality joint. Don't suppose the Lemforder RH joint had a part number on the packet did they, or is that hoping for a bit much! Cheers for all the info guys, much appreciated. Just another question, do you think the standard rods bend when steering in ruts? Obviously the power steering puts out some force, I'm wondering if I need to be a bit more gentle with my steering! I do let the vehicle steer itself unless stuck or trying to climb out of a rut. I ask becuase the arms look liek they have a gradual arc to them rather than any impact forces, and there are no obvious signs of impact. The drag link may have had the weight of the vehicle sat on it when stuck in deep ruts, but the track rod is high enough on the D2 not to have been weighted/hit.

Yeah, I know the long end is pressed in, found out the hard way last year! Hence why I'm going for these now, so I can buy cheaper ends when they fail. Will find out when they get here which TRE they use, but susepct it will be a standard Disco 1/Defender RH thread end, and a D2 LH thread at the other end. Pretty sure it won't be a unique TRE to paddocks for these bars only, that would be a bit stupid on their part. Still, at £6 each I'll be happy to buy them from Paddocks anyway!

I agree with BogMonster. I unplugged the pump on mine. Now I've changed the bumper they aren't there anymore anyway. I have a spare pump already fitted to my washer bottle should I need it I keep a rag and some window cleaner in the side door pocket, far more effective!

Yeah, Paddocks are twice the price of standard bars (but replaceable ends will save me that next time around) and Gwyn is twice the price of Paddocks. I tried my local supplier as well and they can't match Paddocks in this case. I think that I have hit the middle ground for my needs. I know Gwyns will be of higher quality, but I think Paddocks will be high enough quality for my D2. It's not used for comps anymore, just laning and touring. And judging by Dave's usage above it seems they'll cope! I can always fit Gwyns TRE's at a later date as needed as I like the fact that they are greasable. Why LR decided to press the bloody TRE in so you have to replace the complete rod is beyond me!

Thanks Mike, I'll carry a spare D2 end with me so shouldn't be a problem. Well, no more than if I bust a standard D2 bar anyway, in which case the end isn't replaceable at all! Thanks for teh heads-up though, I wasn't aware the threads were different. The only thing I don't like is that they are powder coated rather than zinc coated. They won't look as bling

PS - Don't get hung-up over it until you've put decent tyres on and driven it off-road a lot. It's a very capable machine with the traction control once you get used to it. Very capable!

Mine was a July 04, so one of the last off the line, top spec, and it doesn't have the internals. It does seem that if it was fitted you'd have the markings on the transfer knob. Mine just has Hi and Low, no difflock markings. That doesn't tell you if the gearbox internals are fitted, but does tell you if the linkage is there or not.

Hi Dave, that's sort of the answer I was looking for, thanks. With what you have said and what Ralph has said about the tre's being changeable I'm going to go for those and be done with. I have a couple of spare right hand ends anyway. LR in their wisdom decided to press the other end in so it's can't be changed, and guess which end wears first Chris, I'll check the threads before fitting, and as you say, for what I want I'm sure the steel will be fine, and I shall carry spares. I don't tend to impact them, as I say, I think the bending is either weighting the vehicle on them or possibly from being stuck in ruts and getting a bit enthusiastic with the steering? OF, I'm going to order the set from Paddocks, thanks. These are for a D2 so both bars are straight but different to the D1 bars that I suspect you have? I could do with replacing the drag link for a HD one as well as that is bent and teh set isn't a bad price. Thanks anyway though. So, that's Monday nights job on order! I might one day afford the snorkel I've always wanted. One day

Not very lucky this year to be honest! That's why I was asking,hoped someone might have got them and said they're great, why spend more... I shall phone them in the morning and ask. Saying that if the joints wear out quickly I'd think the bars would at least be ok...I mean a solid bar is a solid bar, right Not ideal, but affordable for the moment and if they last less than 12 months I'll get them changed under warranty

Thanks Ralph, so even if they wear out quickly I'll be able to replace them, that's good. Shopping around they are the cheapest out there so think they'll do. Got to be better than the standard ones at any rate, for no more money. Summo sell them seperatley but obviously twice the price. Overkill for my road going/greenlaning D2 I think.

Before I part with my cash tonight (could do with one ASAP I think) I have a couple of quick questions. I'm happy this is the way forward for me as I need a new track rod as the ball joint is well gone (advisory on the MOT but looks immediate to me) and my drag link does have a bend in it. http://www.paddockspares.com/pm023-heavy-duty-steering-rods-for-discovery-2-with-4-ball-joints.html Anyone know the make? Don't fancy them if Britpart. Are they good soild bars or poor quality jobbies? The drag link isn't needed, and money is tight, so does anyone know if you can buy these items seperately from anywhere as I could just do with the track rod for the moment? Also I can't see from the description or advert if the balljoints are replaceable with these (unlike the genuine replacements) in the future. Cheers, Martin

Also forgot to say, you can turn the traction control off when selecting difflock if you want to (ie it did seem to be on a lot but you had enough momentum that it wasn't really needed). I think if you select difflock with the engine off it puts the tc off, and with the engine on it keeps the tc on. So you'll have best of three worlds tc and no diff lock tc and difflock difflock and no tc

They certainly won't work against each other, they wiil work very well with each other. The only issues you may have with traction control is it overheating and eating brake pads. Take a spare set! Saying that, if your TC is on THAT much I think you'll be doing something wrong or need much better tyres.

Says it's an auto fuel saver. Anyone tried it on a manual?

I fitted an ON-OFF-ON switch, wired directly to each battery and then to a digital display. Simple as that really. You have to toggle between them but that doesn't matter does it?

I guess there is that!

I've left mine out, found it makes it much safer to use when lowering. When the weight comes off the jack the head just drops and the handle stays in your hand. Not had any issues using the jack this way and feel it saves bruises or worse. And yes, I know how to use the jack safely, just found after loosing my pin this was a bit safer again.

Sorted, found a local garage who's going to do that job and my clutch for a sensible price. Might even have some money left over for a side exit exhaust and 2" lift kit

Hi all, The D2 has failed on the upper and lower ball joints and a split CV boot. I've been quoted £400 to have them changed So obviously I'm looking at doing it myself as the parts are only £30. I can't find anything doing the search, but reckon they are gonna be a pig to remove. Any tips? Anyone found a Halfords tool to help rather than teh £1000 land rover tool? Anyone in the North East fancy earning themselves some beer money? I have a back injury so really shouldn't be doing anything myself, otherwise I'd be at it with a big hammer all weekend!